From "Duke Huan of Qi Likes to Wear Purple" to Modern Clothing

Freedom: On the Evolution of Clothing Equality and Freedom and

the Boundary of Law

Ruiling Gu

School of Law, Huaqiao University, Shanghai, China

Keywords: Clothing Equality and Freedom, Transformation, Legal Boundary, Public Order.

Abstract: This article takes "Duke Huan of Qis fondness for purple clothing" as a starting point to trace the evolution

of clothing equality and freedom throughout history. In ancient times, clothing served as a tool to maintain

feudal hierarchical order. In modern society, the progress of clothing equality is significant, characterized by

diversity and de-hierarchization, with constitutional laws ensuring clothing freedom. However, modern

clothing freedom often conflicts with traditional morals, public order, and safety, necessitating clear legal

boundaries. The article explores these issues from aspects such as public order, health and safety, special

occupational identities, and intellectual property pro-tection, aiming to balance individual rights with social

interests and realize the value of clothing equality and freedom. It emphasizes that the law is crucial for

ensuring clothing equality and free-dom, and future efforts should focus on enhancing the rationality of legal

regulations, strengthening publicity, and improving laws.

1 INTRODUCTION

Looking back at history, clothing has been closely

linked to social order and hierarchical systems. In

ancient Chinas feudal society, the colors, materials,

and styles of clothing all carried distinct hierarchical

symbols, and this was also true in medieval Western

Europe, where the differences between noble and

commoner attire were pronounced. The anecdote of

"Duke Huan of Qis fondness for purple" vividly

illustrates the influence of the ruling class on social

customs and the strict distinction in clothing among

different classes. In modern society, clothing has long

transcended its basic function, becoming an important

means of expressing individuality, status, and cultural

identity. In an era that values diversity and

individuality, equal clothing is a direct manifestation

of social equality. From ancient times to the present,

clothing has undergone a process of increasingly

equal transformation.

However, in modern times, there is still a certain

degree of inequality in the field of fashion. For

example, school uniform regulations are overly strict,

limiting students expression of individuality;

workplace dress codes are rigid, increasing womens

burden and reinforcing gender inequality; some

public places restrict "alternative" attire, infringing on

citizens freedom of dress. At the same time, the

excessive promotion of freedom and equality in

fashion also conflicts with traditional moral values,

public order, and safety. Therefore, it is necessary to

clarify the legal boundaries for protecting freedom

and equality in fashion, so as to truly achieve freedom

and equality in clothing in modern society.

This study focuses on the equality and freedom in

clothing, tracing the evolution of clothing freedom

and equality throughout history. In ancient times, it

primarily analyzes the "Duke Huan of Qis fondness

for purple" and the hierarchical system of clothing. In

modern times, it examines the manifestation of

clothing equality and legal regulations. At the same

time, it explores the legal boundaries of clothing

equality and freedom in contemporary society,

clarifies the principles guiding these legal boundaries,

and promotes the realization of fair and free values in

the field of clothing.

In terms of research methods, this paper adopts the

literature review method to deeply explore the

evolution of clothing concepts from ancient times to

modern times and the development thread of relevant

legal provisions. It employs interdisciplinary research

methods to integrate knowledge from multiple

Gu, R.

From "Duke Huan of Qi Likes to Wear Purple" to Modern Clothing Freedom: On the Evolution of Clothing Equality and Freedom and the Boundary of Law.

DOI: 10.5220/0014390000004859

Paper published under CC license (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)

In Proceedings of the 1st International Conference on Politics, Law, and Social Science (ICPLSS 2025), pages 565-570

ISBN: 978-989-758-785-6

565

disciplines such as law, sociology, history, and

cultural studies, conducting a comprehensive analysis

of the legal boundaries of clothing equality and

freedom from different disciplinary perspectives.

From an academic perspective, equality law

ensures social fairness and justice, with equality and

freedom being its concrete manifestations in social

life. Exploring the legal boundaries of dress equality

and freedom can enrich the content of equality law

research, summarize the application characteristics

and development patterns of equality law in different

periods, promote the improvement of the theoretical

framework of equality law, and provide theoretical

support for addressing equality issues in other fields.

From a social perspective, the publics

understanding of clothing equality and freedom is

vague. Some people excessively pursue freedom at

the expense of responsibility and duty; others,

influenced by traditional beliefs, have biases against

others clothing choices. This study clarifies the legal

boundaries of clothing equality and freedom, helping

the public understand their rights and obligations,

enhancing legal awareness, reducing social conflicts

caused by clothing, and fostering a harmonious and

inclusive social environment.

2 FROM ANCIENT TIMES TO

MODERN TIMES: THE

EVOLUTION OF EQUAL

CLOTHING

2.1 Duke Huan of Qis Love for Purple

Reflects the Inequality of Ancient

Chinese Clothing

2.1.1 "Duke Huan of Qi Liked to Wear

Purple" Interpretation of the

Anecdote

Duke Huan of Qi favored wearing purple, and the

whole country followed suit. At that time, no one

could obtain a single piece of purple among the five

colors. This anecdote from "Han Feizi: Left Upper

Storage Sayings" vividly portrays the fashion trends

in Qi during the Spring and Autumn period. As the

ruler of Qi, Duke Huans fondness for purple clothing

sparked a widespread trend across the state, causing

the price of purple fabric to soar. Five bolts of white

silk could hardly be exchanged for one bolt of purple

cloth, profoundly illustrating how fashion influenced

market supply and demand. When Duke Huan heeded

Guan Zhongs advice and stopped wearing purple, it

soon became impossible for anyone in Qi to wear it.

This phenomenon highlights that under the feudal

hierarchy, the ruler had absolute control over fashion

trends, while ordinary peoples clothing choices were

dictated by the ruling class, revealing the inequality

in attire at the time.

2.1.2 Ancient Chinese Clothing and Ranks

Purple, in the ancient Chinese color system,

underwent a transformation from lowly to noble. In

early times, purple, as an intermediate color, was seen

as a symbol of impurity and lowliness. However,

Duke Huan of Qis fondness for purple broke

traditional notions. During the Sui and Tang

dynasties, the official dress color system was

established, with purple becoming the official color

for officials of the third rank and above, who wore

golden fish bags, thus solidifying its status as a

symbol of nobility.

In fact, "Duke Huan of Qis fondness for purple

robes" is merely a microcosm of ancient Chinese

attire and its hierarchical system. In terms of color, in

ancient China, clothing colors were closely tied to

social hierarchy. Primary colors such as blue, red,

yellow, white, and black were seen as symbols of

nobility and purity, while secondary colors were

considered lower in status. Yellow, starting from the

Sui and Tang dynasties, became exclusively for

emperors, symbolizing imperial authority;

commoners were not allowed to wear it, or they

would violate the law. In the official dress code,

during the Tang dynasty, officials of the third rank

and above wore purple robes, those of the fourth rank

wore deep crimson, fifth rank light crimson, sixth

rank dark green, seventh rank light green, eighth rank

dark blue, and ninth rank light blue, using color to

signify their rank and position(Song, 2023).

At the same time, the attire of different social

classes in ancient times showed significant

differences. Taking the court robes of Ming Dynasty

officials as an example, they wore a beam crown on

their heads, with the number of beams decreasing

according to rank: seven for first class, one for ninth

class. They wore red silk robes and skirts, fastened

with leather belts, adorned with jade pendants and

sashes, made of high-quality silk fabrics,

embroidered with exquisite patterns such as cranes,

highlighting their status (Kong&Gu, 2016).

In contrast, common people mostly wore coarse

cloth made of materials like hemp and ramie, which

were rough in texture, monochromatic in color, and

simple in style. Their tops were often short garments,

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convenient for labor. This attire reflected the

economic conditions and low social status of the

common people, serving as a tool to maintain the

feudal hierarchy (Xu&Xu, 2013).

2.2 Modern Society Tends to Be Equal

and Free in Clothing

2.2.1 The Embodiment of Equality and

Freedom in Modern Social Clothing

First, clothing choices have become more diverse.

Take jeans as an example; they were introduced to

China in the 1980s and quickly gained popularity

among young people, becoming a symbol of fashion

and individuality. In the 1990s, with advancements in

domestic production technology, jeans became even

more varied in style and color. Today, consumer

upgrades have led to market segmentation, with

unique styles like frayed and patchwork jeans

emerging frequently. The rise of e-commerce has

broadened purchasing options, making it easier for

consumers to choose, thus achieving the

democratization of clothing and highlighting equality

Second, the development of modern professional

attire embodies the concept of equal clothing,

breaking down the hierarchical differences in

traditional professional wear. Traditional professional

attire distinguished between senior executives and

regular employees through style, material, and

accessories, reinforcing a hierarchical order.

However, many companies, such as large

multinational corporations, have abandoned this

distinction, with all employees wearing the same

uniform. This not only highlights team spirit but also

allows employees to feel equality. In the service

industry, professional attire also emphasizes

uniformity in professionalism, using logos to

differentiate positions, enhancing the industrys image,

and promoting equality and harmony among

employees (Li, 2022).

Third, school uniform culture also highlights

clothing equality. British school uniforms are classic

and simple, eliminating students competitive

mentality. Japanese school uniforms have distinct

characteristics, with uniform styles for urban and rural

areas, fostering a sense of community while providing

space for individual expression. American public

school uniforms are loose, allowing students to choose

clothing with or without the school emblem according

to their preferences, balancing individuality and

equality. Chinese sporty school uniforms incorporate

fashion elements, reducing material competition and

helping students focus on their growth.

2.2.2 The Guarantee of Freedom of Dress

in the Constitutions and Laws of

Various Countries

Different countries guarantee freedom of dress

through their own constitution and laws.

The First Amendment to the U.S. Constitution,

while not directly mentioning freedom of dress,

protects citizens right to wear religious attire from the

perspective of religious freedom, such as Muslim

women wearing headscarves, Sikhs wearing turbans,

and preserving long beards. Courts often rule on cases

related to religious clothing based on this amendment,

ensuring citizens freedom to wear religious attire

without compromising public interests.

Article 10 of the French Constitution ensures

citizens’ rights while emphasizing that the exercise of

these rights must not violate public order and safety.

Regarding freedom of dress, France recognizes

citizens right to choose their attire, but stipulates that

this choice must not harm public order or the rights of

others. For example, France has been involved in

controversies over Muslim women wearing

headscarves in schools, which touch on the balance

between religious freedom and public order.

The Basic Law of Germany guarantees citizens

dignity and the right to free development, including

the freedom to choose their attire. German law

stipulates that employers cannot unjustifiably restrict

employees clothing choices unless it significantly

impacts work safety or corporate image. At the same

time, some companies allow employees to wear

casual clothing in non-critical business settings,

demonstrating respect for individuality.

Japans constitution guarantees citizens freedom of

thought, belief and expression, and clothing as a way

to express themselves is also protected. People can

wear traditional kimonos to carry on the culture, or

pursue fashion trends, reflecting the full

implementation of clothing freedom in Japan.

The laws of different countries vary. In the United

States, emphasis is placed on protecting freedom of

dress from the perspective of religious freedom,

highlighting individual rights; France values

maintaining public order and morals, imposing

relatively more restrictions on freedom of dress;

Germany focuses on balancing personal freedom with

workplace needs; Japan ensures the freedom to

choose clothing while respecting traditional culture.

These differences are influenced by cultural factors in

each country.

From "Duke Huan of Qi Likes to Wear Purple" to Modern Clothing Freedom: On the Evolution of Clothing Equality and Freedom and the

Boundary of Law

567

2.3 Controversy Caused by Modern

Clothing Freedom

Currently, while progress has been made in the area

of clothing equality and freedom, gender, racial, and

age discrimination still exist in the realm of fashion

freedom. Women face more restrictions when

choosing their attire, with some workplaces imposing

strict dress codes for women; regarding race, wearing

specific clothing across races can spark cultural

appropriation controversies; age discrimination

manifests as rigid requirements for dressing

according to different age groups. To eliminate these

discriminations, it is necessary to strengthen legal

protection, promote education and awareness, and

foster an inclusive cultural environment.

At the same time, equality and freedom of clothing

in modern society is still suffering from some

negative voices, which are highlighted as follows:

2.3.1 Conflict with Traditional Moral

Concepts

As society develops, people’s clothing choices have

become increasingly diverse, often clashing with

traditional moral values, particularly in the areas of

revealing attire and special occasion wear. Exposed

styles such as crop tops are frequently questioned in

conservative regions, deemed to violate traditional

morals and influence social norms. In special

occasions like funerals and weddings, some

individuals pursue individuality at the expense of

traditional dress codes, wearing bright or revealing

outfits that cause dissatisfaction and are seen as

disrespectful to traditional morals. This conflict stems

from the difference between traditional moral values

and modern liberal ideas. The former emphasizes

order and etiquette, while the latter stresses personal

rights and freedom. This divergence leads to

controversies over clothing freedom. Such conflicts

can spark public debate, putting pressure on those

who seek freedom in their attire, but they also spur

social change and promote societal diversity

(Ndwandwe, 2018) .

2.3.2 Consideration of Public Order and

Safety

Clothing has an impact on public order and safety.

Excessively revealing attire can easily attract

unwanted attention in places like shopping malls and

schools, disrupting normal operations. Specific

venues have clear regulations regarding clothing to

ensure smooth operation and safety; for example,

workplaces require employees to dress appropriately,

while special locations such as airports restrict the

wearing of potentially hazardous clothing. Balancing

freedom of dress with public interests requires setting

clear boundaries, establishing norms, and fostering

correct attitudes through education and guidance

(Bibi. 2016).

3 LEGAL BOUNDARIES OF

EQUALITY AND FREEDOM IN

DRESS

On the path to ensuring equality and freedom in

personal attire, how to maintain social public interests

and good order through reasonable legal regulations

is a critical issue that requires deep reflection. As the

guardian of social order, the law should fully leverage

its guiding and regulatory role when balancing

equality in attire with legal regulations. In areas such

as public order and good morals, safety and health,

special professions and identities, as well as

intellectual property and trademark protection, the

law regulates clothing choices to ensure that personal

attire does not harm others’ rights or the overall social

interest. This legal regulation is not a restriction on

freedom of attire but aims to achieve true equality and

freedom in clothing, seeking a balance between

individual rights and social public interests (Engi,

2016).

3.1 Public Order and Good Customs

Public order and good morals serve as important legal

grounds for restricting freedom of dress. Public order

is crucial for the normal functioning of society, while

good morals represent societal ethical standards. In

public places such as shopping malls, stations, and

schools, wearing bizarre or overly revealing clothing

can cause discomfort to others, distract attention, and

disrupt normal order. Relevant management

departments can establish dress codes to impose

restrictions. Good morals also constrain freedom of

dress; clothing that promotes violence, pornography,

or terror can damage social ethics. In social settings,

inappropriate attire violates public decency. To

clarify the scope of freedom of dress, future

legislation will grant citizens the right to choose their

clothing according to personal preference and cultural

background, covering aspects such as style and color.

At the same time, clear restrictions will be defined,

prohibiting the wearing of clothing that promotes

harmful content like terrorism or pornography, and

ICPLSS 2025 - International Conference on Politics, Law, and Social Science

568

requiring adherence to dress codes in specific venues

to prevent abuse of rights (Dong-il, 2013).

3.2 Safety and Health

Safety and health are crucial considerations in the

legal boundaries of clothing equality and freedom. In

the workplace, strict regulations are in place to ensure

employee safety. Construction workers must wear

hard hats, safety shoes, and reflective vests, while

chemical industry employees need to wear anti-static

suits and other protective gear. In public places, to

maintain public safety, clothing restrictions are also

enforced. At transportation hubs such as airports and

train stations, wearing clothing that may contain

hazardous materials or be mistaken for hazardous

items is prohibited. Firefighters must wear fire-

resistant suits when on duty to protect themselves and

ensure the smooth execution of firefighting tasks

(Margit, 2011).

3.3 Special Occupations and Identities

Special professions and identities have specific

requirements for attire. Military personnel must wear

uniform military uniforms, wear their rank insignia,

to uphold military discipline and order. Police

officers wear police uniforms and relevant badges

when on duty, enhancing the authority of law

enforcement. In religious venues, believers must

dress according to religious regulations, expressing

their devotion to their faith. Judges must wear judicial

robes in court, symbolizing the solemnity and

impartiality of the judiciary (Ayelet, 2010).

3.4 Intellectual Property Rights and

Trademark Protection

In the field of fashion, intellectual property and

trademark protection safeguard innovation in

clothing and market order. Fashion design is

protected by intellectual property rights, and

designers unique designs are protected under

constitutes infringement. Trademarks serve as

identifiers for the source of goods; trademark law

protects the exclusive rights of trademark owners and

prohibits others from using similar trademarks, such

as the strict protection of Nike and Adidas

trademarks. Classic styles of some brands, like

Burberrys check patterns, are protected under both

will investigate counterfeit products to protect brand

intellectual property and consumer rights. In

scenarios such as online live streaming and virtual

social interactions, the freedom of citizens to wear

virtual clothing is protected, and platforms are

regulated against unreasonable restrictions and

discriminatory practices. In emerging fashion

industries, the intellectual property and labor rights of

professionals like online fashion designers are

clarified to promote healthy industry development

(Galan, 2010).

4 CONCLUSIONS

This study focuses on the equality and freedom in

clothing, tracing the development of clothing freedom

and equality from ancient times to modern times. In

ancient times, "Duke Huan of Qis fondness for

purple" reflects that clothing was a tool for

maintaining feudal hierarchical order. In modern

society, significant progress has been made in

clothing equality. It is evident that from "Duke Huan

of Qis fondness for purple" to modern clothing

freedom, there has been a positive transformation

process in clothing equality and freedom. However, it

should be noted that clothing equality and freedom

are not without boundaries. On one hand, there are

still disparities in modern clothing equality and

freedom; on the other hand, they face challenges from

traditional moral values and concerns about social

order. Therefore, it is necessary to explore the legal

boundaries of clothing equality and freedom. This

paper discusses the legal boundaries of clothing

freedom and equality from aspects such as public

order and good morals, safety and health,

identification of special professions and identities,

and intellectual property protection, ensuring a

balance between individual rights and social interests

to realize the value of clothing freedom and equality

in modern society.

It should be recognized that the law plays a crucial

role in ensuring equality and freedom of attire. The

law not only safeguards citizens freedom to dress but

also imposes reasonable regulations on fashion

freedom to protect public interests and social order.

This regulation is not about restriction but seeks a

balance between individual rights and social benefits.

In the future, efforts should continue to promote

equality and freedom in fashion, enhancing the

rationality of legal regulations. Society should

strengthen education and publicity on relevant

concepts, encouraging personalized expression; at the

legal level, it is necessary to continuously improve

laws, precisely define legal boundaries, and create a

harmonious and orderly social environment.

From "Duke Huan of Qi Likes to Wear Purple" to Modern Clothing Freedom: On the Evolution of Clothing Equality and Freedom and the

Boundary of Law

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