Research on the Brand Positioning and Differentiation Strategy of
Richard Mille in the Luxury Watch Market
Kehang Lin
SHU-UTS SILC Business School, Shanghai University, Shanghai, 200444, China
Keywords: Craftsmanship Narratives, Richard Mille, Historical Constraints, Brand Positioning, Differentiation Strategies.
Abstract: The current luxury watch market, dominated by heritage brands with centuries-old craftsmanship narratives
such as Cartier and Rolex, poses huge entry barriers for emerging brands lacking historical legacy. This article
mainly discuss how Richard Mille, a 21st-century luxury watch brand, has successfully established its brand
positioning and adopt differentiation strategies without relying on conventional narratives of craftsmanship
history. The central research question explores how innovative strategies—such as material innovation,
experiential retail and athlete endorsements—enable emerging luxury brands to bypass historical constraints
and create unique value propositions, attract clients, and sustain growth. Practically, it provides practical
insights for emerging luxury firms seeking to improve their reputation as well as market prominence in hyper-
competitive markets. Unlike F.P.Journe’ s reliance on horological purism and craftsmanship narratives,
Richard Mille mainly emphasizes on Material Science Advancements, Immersive Retail Experiences and
Strategic Celebrity Partnerships, enabling this brand to cultivate distinctive identities and capture reputation
in saturated markets, thus contribute to its success in the market. In a hyper-competitive market, unique brand
positioning and adopting differentiation strategies is crucial to bypass historical constraints and rapidly
capture market share.
1 INTRODUCTION
For heritage luxury brands with centuries-old history,
storytelling centered on their craftsmanship
narratives, brand history and value is one of the most
indispensable market strategies to maintain their
positioning. As was assumed by the “dream formula”
proposed by Dubois and Paternault (1995), historical
legacy is an indispensable part for luxury branding,
yet the success of Richard Mille has provided a
striking counterexample. Kapferer & Bastien (2012)
assert that exclusivity is central to luxury, yet
emerging brands must redefine strategies to
compensate for historical absence.
Previous Studies have revealed the essential
elements for luxury branding. Kapferer and Bastien’s
(2012) emphasize the necessity of rarity and
storytelling, yet insufficiently explores how emerging
luxury brands can bypass historical narratives
through value creation. Fionda and Moore (2009)
dissect the core elements of luxury fashion but
overlook technical innovation, a gap highlighted by
Zhang and Müller (2022), who emphasize that the
new Swiss watchmakers’ shift toward "engineering
theatrics" can help bypass their historical constraints.
Limited research explores emerging brands like
Richard Mille, who fully leverages celebrity
partnerships as well as forward-looking design to
redefine brand exclusivity (Gaskins, 2024). The
existing research gaps indicate that more insights are
needed to address problem concerning how could
emerging luxury brand bypass their historical
constraints and create their own brand value in
today’s market.
By analyzing literature research and adopting a
comparative case analysis, this study firstly dissects
Richard Mille’s positioning and then practically
compares its three primary marketing strategies
composed of material innovation, experiential retail
and athlete endorsements with F.P.Journ’s
conventional strategies centering around
craftsmanship, followed by analysis on the disparity
in the effectiveness of the two brand strategies and
what contributes to Richard Mille’s success.
366
Lin, K.
Research on the Brand Positioning and Differentiation Strategy of Richard Mille in the Luxury Watch Market.
DOI: 10.5220/0013845100004719
Paper published under CC license (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)
In Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on E-commerce and Modern Logistics (ICEML 2025), pages 366-372
ISBN: 978-989-758-775-7
Proceedings Copyright © 2025 by SCITEPRESS Science and Technology Publications, Lda.
2 BRAND INFORMATION OF
RICHARD MILLE
Founded in 2001 by French entrepreneur Richard
Mille, Richard Mille has redefined exclusivity
through its avant-garde engineering, radical designs
and cutting-edge materials adoption such as carbon
composite and titanium. Known as "the Formula 1 of
watches," Richard Mille positions itself at the
intersection of hyper-luxury and high performance,
targeting wealthy customers valuing innovation over
tradition. Over the past few years, Richard Mille has
become one of the Swiss watch brands that have
grown much faster than their competitors and have
been capturing the lion’s share of the watch industry’s
profit pool (Zhang & Müller, 2022)
Richard Mille exemplifies how modern brands
can dominate through differentiation strategies,
challenging conventional aesthetics and prioritizing
technological artistry (Joy, 2022). Considering
emerging luxury firms seeking to improve their
reputation as well as market prominence in hyper-
competitive markets, Richard Mille’s bold,
innovation-centric approach is a highly significant
research subject for reference.
3 RICHARD MILLE’S
POSITIONING AND VALUE
PROPOSITION
3.1 Brand Positioning of Richard Mille
Richard Mille positions itself as the "Formula 1 of
Haute Horologerie". Targeting upmarket customers,
Richard Mille blends cutting-edge technology with
avant-garde design to produce timepieces that are
both engineering marvels and status symbols,
blurring the lines between sporty, industrial, futuristic
and playful (Campuzano, 2023).
Richard Mille’s meteoric rise can be attributed to
its strategic celebrity partnerships, among them, the
most widely known one is its partnership with tennis
star Rafael Nadal, who wore the RM 27-05 during the
French Open, as mentioned by Gaskins (2024).
Another consideration is its nontraditional
storytelling emphasizing on material innovation.
Unlike heritage brands, Richard Mille bypasses
historical narratives and promotes its futuristic
craftsmanship, reinforcing the brand’s scarcity and
status (Bwambale, 2023). Besides, its emphasis on
futuristic design can also be seen from its immersive
retail experiences, Richard Mille's retail stores are
designed to reflect high-tech and modern ethos.
Unique materials and innovative layouts are often
adopted in its boutiques to create an environment
immersing customers into the brand's universe.
3.2 Brand Value Proposition of
Richard Mille
Richard Mille’s core values center around
Horological technical Innovation, Futuristic design
and Emotional Resonance
RM’s adoption of aerospace-grade materials
positions it as a leader in horological innovation.
Richard Mille invests heavily in pioneering materials
such as gold-carbon TPT and develops in-house
movements with shock resistance up to 5,000g. This
kind of innovations in technology and materials
associate Richard Mille with engineering mastery,
aligning with Joy’s (2022) concept of “artification”,
where technology turns into wearable art.
Rejecting traditional aesthetics, RM embraces
avant-garde and skeletonized designs demonstrating
subtle turning of watch hands, one typical example is
RM 40-01 McLaren Speedtail. Besides,
collaborations with motorsport giants like Ferrari
infuse automotive dynamism into horological design,
appealing to consumers seeking futuristic aesthetics.
Beyond horological innovation, the brand’s
celebrity partnerships create emotional resonance,
fostering aspirational loyalty (Zha et al., 2023). These
collaborations turn its timepieces into symbols of elite
achievement, sportsmanship and extraordinary
insight, resonating with consumers seeking self-
expression as well as status.
By balancing Horological technical Innovation,
Futuristic design and Emotional Resonance, the brand
value proposition of Richard Mille transcends
timekeeping, enabling the brand to establish certain
customers base while maintaining its exclusivity. As
Veloutsou et al. (2022) argue, such differentiation can
help brands dominate global markets while
commanding unparalleled loyalty and price
premiums.
4 RICHARD MILLE’S
POSITIONING AND VALUE
PROPOSITION
Founded in 1999 by François-Paul Journe, F.P.Journe
is a Swiss luxury watch brand positioning itself as a
bridge connecting traditional horology and
Research on the Brand Positioning and Differentiation Strategy of Richard Mille in the Luxury Watch Market
367
contemporary artistry. Known for its commitment to
horological heritage, the brand targets connoisseurs
valuing timeless elegance as well as craftsmanship.
Unlike Richard Mille’s cutting-edge brand
positioning, F.P.Journe prioritizes historical
continuity and craftsmanship narratives, aligning
with Vigneron and Johnson’s (2004) luxury
perception dimensions of history and craftsmanship.
Similar to most well-known luxury watch brand with
rich historical legacy, F.P.Journe, as a emerging
brand, also titles itself as a guardian of horological
tradition and mechanical artistry, maintains its
exclusivity through limited production and controlled
supply chains.
4.1 Current Development Status
Rejecting mass production, the brand sticks to its
technical exclusivity. Its unique design "FRANCIS
FORD COPPOLA FFC Blue" sold for CHF 4.5
million at Only Watch 2021, while a platinum
tourbillon fetched CHF 3.53 million at Phillips 2023,
setting new records. The brand keeps maintaining its
scarcity through limited editions, with certain series
appreciating by seven times in value within three
years. Although Chanel acquired a 20% stake to
support the brand’s expansion in 2018, its production
remains manual with merely 120 craftsmen at its
Geneva workshop.
4.2 Reasons for Choosing F.P.Journe
as the Comparative Group
As a successful representative of the modern luxury
watch industry, F.P.Journe shared a similar founding
time with Richard Mille, with the former one founded
in 1999 and the lattter founded in 2001. By selecting
this comparative group, the influence of
uncontrollable factors caused by the founding time on
the research results of this study can be reduced,
thereby making the research outcomes more accurate
and reliable.
More importantly, the two respectively represent
completely different brand positioning and marketing
strategies:
Tradition vs. Futurism: Richard Mille embodies
avant-garde "hyper-tech" aesthetics, in contrast,
F.P.Journe represents historical continuity through
classical design and craftsmanship. Such brand
positioning difference results in two distinct
marketing strategies.
F.P.Journe serves as an ideal comparative group
not merely through similar founding time as well as
its opposition to Richard Mille, but by representing
the "traditional mastery" alternative in modern luxury
watch market, providing a typical example to analyze
the strategies of the emerging luxury brand.
5 COMPARISON OF THE TWO
BRANDS’ MARKETING
STRATEGIES:
5.1 Richard Mille’s Strategy
5.1.1 Material Science Advancements
The pioneering adoption of advanced materials of
Richard Mille has positioned itself as a leader in
horological innovation. Aerospace-grade materials
such as Carbon TPT® and titanium alloys reflects the
brand’s commitment to high performance as well as
avant-garde aesthetics, thus attracts a certain
customers who are obsessed with mechanical and
futuristic design.
One typical example is the RM UP-01, recognized
as the thinnest mechanical watch in the world with
merely1.75mm thickness, it exemplifies that material
science could also drive differentiation, rather than
conventionally stressing on craftsmanship.
The adoption of Carbon TPT® was developed
through a partnership with Thin Ply Technology
Group. This material enhances products’ durability
while reducing weight, which is extremely critical for
sports-oriented designs. Such material innovations
have both functionality and a futuristic design sense,
elevating functional objects to art (Joy, 2022).
Through redefining material breakthroughs as
technical achievements and artistic expressions,
Richard Mille appeals to customers seeking both
exclusivity and performance.
5.1.2 Immersive Retail Experiences
Richard Mille prioritizes immersive and unique
retailing environments, turning its retail experiences
into a narrative medium expressing the brands’
attitudes.
Different from F.P.Journe’s focus on inviting,
intimate and salon-style settings that highlight artisan
workshops, Richard Mille’s stores integrate a lot of
digital elements to illustrate material innovations and
provide customization options.
Richard Mille’s flagship stores such as the
“speakeasy”-styled boutique located in Singapore,
employ hidden entrances and interactive displays to
evoke a sense of exploration as well as privilege. One
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of the most recognizable designs of Richard Mille’s
retailing space can be its central installation, a
Immersive 36-degree projection mapping, which
allows clients to visualize the molecular structures of
its materials such as Carbon TPT® and Quartz TPT®
composites. This unique retailing design bridges
tactile with digital native engagement patterns, as
conceptualized by Veloutsou et al. (2022). What’s
more, clients can customize watch components in
real-time, observing how different material
combinations can determine technical specifications
through dynamic simulation overlays, appealing to a
large group of young fans.
The immersive retail experiences provided by
Richard Mille confirms the importance of strategic
experiential marketing stated by Bwambale (2023),
where physical spaces act as brand narratives that
deepen emotional connections.
5.1.3 Strategic Celebrity Partnership
Richard Mille’s collaborations with well-known
athletes and celebrities not only validates the
performance of its products, but also create a sense of
human achievement, turning its timepieces into
symbols of elite achievement, sportsmanship and
extraordinary insight, resonating with clients seeking
self-expression as well as status.
The most famous collaboration of Richard Mile is
its sponsorship with Rafael Nadal. During the 2024
French Open, Nadal's RM 27-04 withstood repeated
130km/h movements and 2,500g groundstroke
impacts, verifying that the brand’s suspension system
reinforced by graphene is highly suitable for sports.
Such collaborations transformed product testing into
public witness of mechanical endurance.
What is more, the collaborations strengthen
Richard Mille’s ethos of extreme performance,
fostering “empowered loyalty” through aligning
brand values with the aspirational lifestyles of
influencers (Zha et al., 2023).
5.2 F.P.Journe’s Strategies
FP.Journe’s strategies is a condensed representation
of many conventional luxury brand marketing
strategies.
FP.Journe cultivates its brand identity mainly
through three interconnected strategies: heritage
preservation, cultural partnerships and retailing
design emphasizing on artisan workshops. In sharp
contrast to Richard Mille’s marketing strategies, these
approaches reflecting F.P.Journe persistence in
pursuing traditional craftsmanship and historical
storytelling, aligning with two of the five dimensions
defined by Vigneron & Johnson’s (2004): History and
Craftsmanship.
5.2.1 Heritage Preservation
From the very essence of F.P.Journe’s value is its
perpetuation of 18th-century horological traditions
and high-quality craftsmanship, which can be
reflected form the motto of its founder François-Paul
Journe “Invenit et Fecit” which means “Invented and
Made”.
Some classic design series illustrate F.P.Journe’s
commitment to historical handcrafted excellence. For
instance, the Breguet’s tourbillon principles can be
seen from the design of Tourbillon Souverain series.
Norifumi Seki, the 2020 winner of the Young
Talent Competition, showcased a hand-carved
spherical moon complication, demonstrating
F.P.Journe’s dedication to preserving mechanical
artistry in an automated era.
5.2.2 Cultural Partnerships
Corresponding to Dubois & Paternault’s (1995)
“dream formula”, F.P.Journe’s partnerships with
cultural institutions elevate the brand’s artistry.
Collaborations with well-known cultural entities
like the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris enable
F.P.Journe to reinforce its connection to artistic
excellence, in the meanwhile, subtly appeal to
customers who value and appreciate fine
craftsmanship and art. Besides, these events allow the
brand to directly engage with art enthusiasts,
collectors, and connoisseurs, showcasing its
horological artistry beyond the commercial aspect.
These cultural partnerships create a F.P.Journe’s
world for its clients where timepieces are viewed as
expressions of creativity, fine craftsmanship, and
cultural significance.
5.2.3 Retailing Design Emphasizing on
Artisan Workshops
One of its core brand DNA -- perpetuation of
craftsmanship can always be sensed in F.P.Journe’s
retailing stores.The brand transforms boutiques into
live theaters illustrating craftsmanship, making its
artisanal processes more visible to clients. One
typical example is the F.P.Journe’s Maison de
Genève, the brand turns the retailing space into an
open-plan atelier where master watchmakers
assemble movements in full view.
In addition, the brand’s “Workshop Series” events
can exemplify that F.P.Journe’s attaches great
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369
importance to its exclusivity. At its Tokyo flagship,
clients attendance is restricted to 12 guests monthly,
creating an experiential exclusivity rather than merely
production limits (Bwambale, 2023).
5.3 Comparison
Richard Mille and F.P.Journe represent two distinct
marketing approaches to luxury watchmaking, both
leveraging their own strategies to maintain
exclusivity, customers’ desirability and emotional
resonance. While both founded around 2000, their
tactics diverge sharply in execution, reflecting
contrasting brand positioning and targeted customers.
As argued by Anreola (2024), a historical artisan
enterprise can contribute to its value creation. More
importantly, in an increasingly globalized market
dominated by large brands, maintaining artisan
autonomy can still represent a competitive advantage.
Aligning with Anreola’s (2024) opinion, F.P.Journe’s
core strategies are implemented based on its pursuit
of heritage and craftsmanship, and these are also the
essence of many conventional luxury brand’s
strategies. Collections like the Tourbillon Souverain
can symbolically reflect its classical design
principles; Collaborations with cultural institutions
like the Musée des Arts et Métiers position its
watches as cultural masterpieces; Its retail space
resemble open-plan workshops, where clients witness
live craftsmanship. All of these marketing strategies
target older, traditional luxury consumers, including
horology purists, art collectors, and heritage-focused
elites, and that is also the consumer group targeted by
most conventional luxury brands, indicating a highly
competitive market.
Whereas, Richard Mille ingeniously turns its
attention to affluent, relatively younger, tech-oriented
individuals in dynamic industries including tech
entrepreneurs, athletes, collectors of contemporary
art, avoiding such a competitive situation to some
extent.
Compared with F.P.Journe, Richard Mille
Initiated a brand-new marketing strategy targeting the
contemporary younger consumer group with great
potential and strong purchasing power. The brand
prioritizes material science over craftsmanship,
deploys interactive technologies to strengthen
immersive experience and collaborates with athletes
to transform watches into symbols of elite
performance, these three primary strategies all
illustrate Richard Mille’s bold move to launch an
innovative strategies for emerging luxury brand.
According to the “Dream Formula” proposed by
Dubois and Paternault (1995):
F.P.Journe sustains its elite aura mainly through
heritage and craftsmanship, limiting visibility to
audiences and emphasizing artisanal rarity. Its
“dream” centers around timelessness, appealing to
clients valuing historical legacy.
While Richard Mille amplifies customers’
aspiration though material innovation and digital
engagement, making its “dream” accessible through
high-profile celebrities while maintaining exclusivity
via premium pricing and avant-garde materials. Its
strategy targets a customers’ values distinction
through modernity.
The two brands exemplify polarized
interpretations of luxury. The former cultivates
tradition, resonating with connoisseurs who value
artisanal storytelling as well as cultural permanence.
The latter thrives on disruption, attracting a younger,
performance-driven audience through material
innovation and digital engagement. Both succeed but
tailor their balance of exclusivity and aspiration to
their own brand positioning and understanding of
luxury.
6 ANALYSIS ON WHAT
CONTRIBUTES TO RICHARD
MILLE’S SUCCESS
To fully understand the value of Richard Mille’s
marketing strategies, it’s of great importance to
analyze the overall market environment in which the
emerging luxury brands are situated. For emerging
luxury watch brands, F.P.Journe can be assumed as
one the most successful modern brands in leveraging
historical narratives and craftsmanship, but even so
its reputation and market share still pale in
comparison to Richard Mille and many traditional
well-known brand. It is really demanding for
emerging brand to imitate the practices of F.P.Journe
due to the challenges they face.
The first obstacles they may encounter is how to
attract outstanding craftspeople, which is
acknowledged by Tarquini et al. (2022). In the hyper-
competitive luxury market, it is really demanding for
emerging brands to find suitable craftspeople who
inherit the craftsmanship passed down from
generation to generation by their ancestors. Another
greater difficulty is the targeted customers. Emerging
luxury brands often struggle to establish credibility
among discerning consumers prioritizing heritage
and craftsmanship. For Millenials, emerging brands
have to take one thing into consideration: convincing
their customers to choose their own heritage and
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craftsmanship rather than those classic brands owning
a history of several hundred years of heritage.
Besides, for younger generation, luxury is more about
expressing social status and identity (Ludborza,
2024), indicating that they might not appreciate
history and craftsmanship as much as the older
generation.
Richard Mille’s rise in the luxury watch market
since its foundation in 2001 is of great reference value
for emerging luxury brand. Its success can be
attributed to mainly three critical factors behind its
success: targeted clients, adaptation to modern
aesthetic trends and building brand awareness.
6.1 Targeted Clients
Richard Mille’s target customers comprises younger,
affluent individuals in dynamic areas such as tech,
finance, and sports. This customer group tend to focus
less on the historical background behind the brand
than conventional luxury consumers. Richard Mille
cater to these consumers prioritizing cutting-edge
engineering because its high-tech materials adoption
and futuristic designs align with their recognition of
the noble status. The brand’s immersive retail
experiences further solidify its appeal. Interactive
projections of material molecular structures and real-
time customization tools resonate with younger
generations who value experiential luxury and
individualized service.
6.2 Adaptation to Modern Aesthetic
Trends
Richard Mille seizes the modern aesthetic shift
toward “functional art” in luxury. For instance, the
integration of sports-inspired styles such as the RM
65-01’s F1-derived carbon fiber case reflect a broader
trend of luxury goods embodying dynamic,
performance-oriented narratives.
6.3 Building Brand Awareness
Richard Mille keep elevating the brand visibility
through celebrity and sports Partnerships. As the
sports fields Richard Mille collaborates with are all of
high-end nature, such cooperation not only enhances
the brand's reputation but also enables the brand to
reach out to a group of elites who have greater
potential to become brand clients, thus improving its
brand awareness among its targeted customers.
6.4 Lessons for Emerging Luxury
Brands
Richard Mille’s success stems from its ability to
harmonize technological innovation with storytelling,
targeting emerging affluent customers while staying
ahead of aesthetic trends. From the very essence of
Richard Mille’s case is not being trapped by the
conventional thinking of marketing strategies,
targeting customers with large potential and raising
the recognition of brand identity. To bypass historical
constraints, emerging luxury brand need to clarify
their own brand positioning, keep up with the
mainstream trends of the luxury market such as
technological innovation and high-tech material
adoption, and adopt differentiation strategies to
attract customer base, thus enhancing its popularity
and market share more rapidly in hyper-competitive
markets.
7 CONCLUSION
F.P.Journe follows the conventional luxury brand
strategies, leveraging heritage preservation and
artisanal storytelling to attract traditional
connoisseurs, but it can be demanding for emerging
brand to follow its path. In contrast, Richard Mille
boldly redefines luxury through material innovation,
immersive retail experiences, and strategic celebrity
partnerships. The analysis reveals that Richard
Mille’s differentiation strategies enable it to bypass
historical constraints faced by most emerging brands.
Through targeting customers with large potential,
aligning with contemporary aesthetic trends and
building brand awareness, Richard Mille gradually
improved its reputation and market share.
For emerging luxury brands without historical
legacy, Richard Mille’s success offers actionable
insights: the key lies in breaking away from the
conventional luxury-marketing framework, clarifying
their own brand positioning, keeping up with the
mainstream trends of the luxury market and adopting
differentiation strategies to attract customer base.
Whereas, Limitations of the article also exist.
Focusing on merely two Swiss brands, this
comparative study can not fully represent luxury
market dynamics. Additionally, reliance on previous
academic materials indicates that some inferences are
merely theoretical and lack data support. Third, the
analysis overlooks regional market variations (e.g.,
Asia’s growing preference for hybrid luxury-tech
products).
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In brief, Richard Mille’s strategies demonstrate
that emerging brands have potential to thrive by
redefining luxury through technological artistry and
aspirational storytelling. Yet, the enduring appeal of
craftsmanship, as seen in F.P.Journe, underscores that
tradition remains a feasible but demanding path for
brands targeting legacy-oriented clients.
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