Potential Effect of Avena sativa’s Cream on Skin Hydration

Diadora

, Wianlie Cendana

, Albert Daniel Saragih

, Ahmad Raif Martinus

, Refi Ikhtiari

1,2

Laboratory of Biomolecular Chemistry, Graduate School of Biomedical Science

Universitas Prima Indonesia

Laboratory of Materials Chemistry, Faculty of Industrial Engineering,

Universitas Prima Indonesia

Emails: (diadora, wianliecendana, albertdaniel, refiikhtiari)@unprimdn.ac.id

Keywords: Avena sativa, oats extract, skin hydration.

Abstract: Skin dryness or xerosis is an aging process commonly found in the tropical country especially Indonesia.

The process is related to the decrease of skin hydration and the increase of the level of the radical compound

known as oxidative stress. This study aims to assess the effectivity of Avena sativa cream formulation in

improving skin hydration. The study included a total of 40 female patients with xerosis. The patients were

treated with Avena sativa cream with various concentrations for 28 days. Results showed a significant

improvement (p < 0.05) with an increase in the mean difference in dryness scores from baseline to the end

of each treatment interval of 28 days. Cream formulation of Avena sativa extract is proven to improve skin

hydration.

1 INTRODUCTION

Dry skin or xerosis is defined as the loss or

reduction of moisture level in the stratum corneum

located in the epidermal layer of the skin

(Goldsmith.et al, 2015). Epidermal layer is the

thinnest and outermost layer of the skin. Very

important in cosmetics because this layer provides

texture, moisture. and skin color. The main

constituent cells of the epidermal layer are

keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are produced by basal

cell layers. When mature keratinocytes will move to

the layer above it is called the process of

keratinization (Goldsmith et al., 2015).

There are two major factors that play a role in

the occurrence of dry skin. The first is due to

physical or chemical factors such as free radicals

originating from the sun's UV rays, pesticides and

pollution. Free radicals on the skin can cause

premature aging which is characterized by dry skin

conditions. The second factor is an increase in

transepidermal water loss (TEWL) due to a

disturbance in the skin that causes a lot of water to

evaporate from the skin (Baumann, 2009).

Symptoms of dry skin can be treated by

increasing hydration of the stratum corneum with a

moisturizing composition that is occlusive and/or

humectant and added emollients to smooth rough

skin surfaces. Moisturizers that are widely used are

oil-in-water emulsions, such as creams and lotions

(Farris, 2014).

Moisturizer is a complex formula created to

maintain water content in the skin between 10% -

30%, designed to improve the hydration mechanism

of the skin and maintain the structure and function of

the skin from various influences such as dry air,

sunlight, old age, temperature, various skin diseases

as well as diseases that can accelerate water

evaporation. Moisturizers are generally divided into

3 classes, namely humectants, occlusives and

emollients (Farris, 2014).

Humectants are water-soluble ingredients

with high water absorption ability that help the skin

retain moisture. Examples of humectants that are

often used are glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol,

pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, sodium lactate, urea,

sodium hyaluronate, a-hydroxy, and certain natural

lipid mixtures. Humectants can draw water from the

atmosphere (when the atmospheric humidity is more

than 80%) and the epidermal layer. Humectants will

penetrate the stratum corneum and are related to

lipids or stratum corneum proteins to increase

moisture in the skin. In certain circumstances, such

as low humidity fluid will occur in the deeper layers

of the epidermis and the dermis. Humectants are not

Diadora, ., Cendana, W., Saragih, A., Martinus, A. and Ikhtiari, R.

Potential Effect of Avena Sativa’s Cream on Skin Hydration.

DOI: 10.5220/0009491203170324

In Proceedings of the International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology (ICHIMAT 2019), pages 317-324

ISBN: 978-989-758-460-2

317

as effective as occlusive, so they need to be

combined with occlusive materials (Farris, 2014).

Occlusive is a substance that lines the skin to

inhibit transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Generally,

occlusive substances are oily so they can dissolve fat.

Examples of occlusive ingredients, namely paraffin,

squalene, dimethicone, soybean oil, propylene

glycone, lanolin, olive oil, petrolatum, cocoa butter,

and mineral oil. After water evaporates from an

occlusive moisturizer, the occlusive material will

protect the skin from the outside environment (Farris,

2014).

Emollients are added to moisturizing

ingredients to soften and soften the skin. Emollients

fill the space between corneocyte desquamation.

Many humectants and occlusives also function as

emollients. Like lanolin, mineral oil, and petrolatum

(Farris, 2014).

Ingredients that contain antioxidants such as

vitamin E, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 are

included in moisturizing compositions that act as

anti-aging. Antioxidants can reduce the number of

free radicals that play a role in the skin's aging

process. Other components that are often used are

used, namely vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin C,

vitamin D, linoleic acid (Farris, 2014)

Basic ingredients that are often used for

moisturizers commonly come from natural

ingredients, synthetic or a combination of both

(Kurtz & Wallo, 2007). The synthetic ingredients

commonly used as moisturizers are glycerin,

propylene glycol, and lanolin. The use of synthetic

materials such as lanolin and propylene glycol as

emollients and emulsifiers is known to cause allergic

reactions (Hitayezu et al., 2015).

The use of synthetic ingredients that can

endanger the health of the human body encourages

research to look for new natural compounds as

moisturizers with natural antioxidants that are safer

for human health. Therefore we need natural

ingredients as substitutes with the same or better

bioactivity. Development in the field of medicine

needs to be directed into the pharmaceutical industry

on the basis of natural ingredients obtained from

medicinal plants, with the consideration that the

development towards the utilization of natural

materials has a high enough competitiveness,

beneficial in improving the quality of health. One of

the natural ingredients that can be used as a basis for

moisturizers is oats (Avena sativa) (Hitayezu et al.,

2015).

Avena sativa is a plant that is included in

cereal species which is widely used as food and

animal feed. The structure of oat seeds is almost

similar to wheat. Both have a layer covering the seed

coat that protects endospermic starch and germ in

the seed core (Grundy, 2018).

At present, demand for oats for human

consumption has increased because of its many

health benefits and can be used as a staple food

(Kulp, 2000). This is because oats have primary

compounds such as carbohydrates, proteins, and

fiber. In particular, oats also contain a variety of

natural antioxidant compounds and fibers that are

good for digestion, regulation of blood sugar,

lowering cholesterol, preventing asthma. In the field

of dermatology, oats are carried out for the

management of various skin diseases such as eczema,

atopic dermatitis, and as an antibiotic (Sangwan et

al., 2014).

The nutrient contents of 100g Avena sativa

(Chu, 2014) is showed in the table 1 below:

Table 1 : Nutrients composition of Avena sativa.

Nutrients

Amount

Energy

Carbohydrate

Protein

Fat

Fiber

389 Kcal

55 g

13 g

6.4 g

5 g

19 %

32%

10%

Total Fat

6,9 Gms

348 %

Vitamin E

1,09 mg

Thiamin

0,763 mg

99%

Riboflavin

0,139 mg

21 %

Folacyn

56 mg

47 %

Potassium

429 mg

18 %

Calsium

54 mg

86 %

Phosphor

523 mg

82 %

Magnesium

177 mg

40 %

4,72 mg

48 %

Zinc

3,97 mg

50 %

Pantotenate

acid

1,349 mg

41 %

Copper

0,626 mg

44 %

4,916 mg

23%

ICHIMAT 2019 - International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology

318

The results of studies reported by ((Hitayezu

et al., 2015) in oats contained a variety of natural

antioxidant compounds including Avenanthramides

which belong to the group of N-

cinnamoylanthrannilic acid derivatives, B-glucan,

phenolic acid derivatives, cinnamic acids derived

from the class aldehydes and Vitamin E.

Oats have high concentrations of β-glucan

(dissolved fiber) bonds as components of endosperm

cell walls. Several studies conducted on human and

animal experiments show that a diet using oat-

glucan can reduce cholesterol so that it will reduce

the risk of liver disease. Several other studies have

shown that β-glucans contained in oats can slow the

increase in blood sugar when linked to diabetes

(Kulp, 2000).

β-glucans are found on the oat skin produced

by grinding techniques. Usually, β-glucans are used

in medical fields such as wound healing and as a

protection for the skin (Sangwan et al., 2014).

In the field of dermatology, the β-glucan

compound is used as an anti-irritant, moisturizing

and anti-aging because it can increase collagen

production. Studies also show that β-glucans have

the same antioxidant activity as vitamin E in

maintaining glutathione levels in the skin after

exposure to UV light (Schar et al., 2017).

Avenanthramides (Anthranilic acid amides)

or AVA belongs to the group of phenol alkaloids

which are generally found in oats. Various studies

show that avenanthramide has antiinflammatory,

antioxidant and antiproliferative activities. The

compound Avenanthramide was first discovered by

Collin through extraction from oats in 1989. The

antioxidant activity of AVA is 10-30 times more

potent than the common cereal antioxidant

compounds such as ferulic acid, gentisic acid,

vanillic acid, and vanillin. Until now, there are 6

AVA subtypes namely Avenanthramide 2, AVA A,

AVA C, AVA B, AVA E, AVA D, Z- AVA E.

AVA-c has the highest antioxidant activity followed

by AVA-B and AVA-A (Hitayezu et al., 2015).

Tocols (tocopherol and tocotrienol) or

vitamin E are natural antioxidants contained in oats

in the form of fat-soluble compounds and are found

in endosperm oats. Tocols compounds work as

antioxidants by transferring hydrogen atoms from

phenol groups to free radicals, thus breaking the

chain of oxidation processes. Tocols compound is

also beneficial for reducing cholesterol levels and

inhibiting the growth of cancer cells (Schar, 2017).

The benefits of oats in cosmetic preparations

in vivo have been investigated for their benefits in

increasing skin moisture, healing wounds, anti-

microbial and anti-inflammatory properties

(Baumann, 2009). Currently, oats are mostly

consumed orally but for topical use as a cosmetic

preparation is still very rare.

From the description above, this research will

tests the potential of avena sativa as moisturizer

formulated in the cream. The results of the cream

formulation were then tested with a patch test for 48

hours on sample to assess allergies. In non-allergic

samples, the cream was applied twice a day for 4

weeks on the left forearm.

2 MATERIALS AND METHODS

2.1 Study Population

The females within 18-25 years old with atopic

dermatitis/xerosis, eczema, acne, psoriasis and other

types of skin infections; and willing to give an

informed consent were enrolled in the study.

Subjects with an allergy to any of the product

ingredients, having any uncontrolled medical illness

such as diabetes mellitus, hypertension, liver disease

or history of alcoholism, human immunodeficiency

virus (HIV), hepatitis or any other serious medical

illness were excluded. Pregnant women or nursing

mothers were also excluded from the study

2.2 Preparation of Extracts

Avena sativa in the form of simplisia was macerated

using 96% ethanol with a sample: solvent: 1:10 ratio

for 5 x 24 hours. The maserate product is filtered

and then evaporated to remove the solvent using a

rotary evaporator at 50 ° C until a thick extract is

obtained.

2.3 Formulation of Topical Cream

The oil phase ingredients (stearic acid, acetyl

alcohol, and propyl paraben) and the water phase

(TEA, glycerin, methyl paraben and distilled water)

are separated. The oil phase and the water phase are

heated to a temperature of 700C-800C. After

everything is mixed, put the water phase little by

little into a hot mortar containing the oil phase,

mixed with an intermittent shaking to form a cream

base. Avena sativa extract was put into a mortar,

mixed with a cream base little by little, mixed until

homogeneous and put in a container. The

concentration of each ingredient is shown in Table 2.

Potential Effect of Avena Sativa’s Cream on Skin Hydration

319

Table 2: Standard formulas for cream preparations

(Young, 1972) with modification of the addition of avena

sativa extract.

Ingredients

Avena sativa

Extract (g)

2,5

5,0

7,5

Acetyl alcohol

(%b/b)

Glycerin

(%b/v)

TEA (%b/v)

1,5873

Stearate Acid

(%b/b)

Methyl paraben

(%b/b)

0,2

Propyl paraben

(%b/b)

0,02

Aquadest

100

2.4 Evaluation of Physical Quality of

Cream

The Evaluation of the physical quality includes

observing the homogeneity of the preparations,

determining the type of preparation emulsions,

measuring the pH of the preparations, observing the

stability of the preparations.

2.5 Determination of the Cream

Homogeneity

A certain amount of creamwas applied to a piece of

glass or other suitable transparent material, the

preparation must show a homogeneous arrangement

and no visible grain.

2.6 Determination of the Type of

Emulsion

A certain number of creamwas placed on the beaker,

1 drop of methyl blue is added to the preparation and

then stirred. If the methyl blue is spread evenly it

means that the preparation is a type of emulsion m /

a, but if only the blue spots means the preparation is

a type of emulsion a / m.

2.7 Measuring the pH of the

Preparation

Determination of the pH of the preparation is done

using a pH meter. The instrument is calibrated using

a neutral solution (pH 7.01) and an acidic buffer (pH

4.01) until the instrument shows the pH value. Then

the electrodes are washed with distilled water. Then

dried with tissue. Samples were made in a

concentration of 1%, weighing 1 gram of the

preparation and dissolved in 100 ml distilled water.

Then the electrode is dipped in the water solution.

Leaving the device shows the pH value to a constant.

The number indicated by the pH meter is the pH of

the preparation. Observations were made at room

temperature (15 ° C-30 ° C) for 12 weeks.

2.8 Observation of Cream Stability

A total of 100 g of each preparation formula is put

into a plastic pot. Furthermore, observations were

made in the form of changes in consistency, color

and aroma when the preparation was made and in

storage for 12 weeks. In this study, the stability of

the preparation at room temperature (15 ° C-30 ° C)

was observed for 12 weeks of storage.

2.9 Moisturizing Activity Test of Avena

sativa Extract

2.9.1 Irritation Test

All samples that met the criteria were tested patched.

Patch test is done by applying the results of the

formulation of Avena sativa extract cream on the

back of the right ear and the back of the left ear to

base F0 as a comparison. Testing is carried out for

24 hours for each volunteer. Symptoms that arise are

observed, the existence of skin reactions shortly

after sticking and touching the skin, such irritations

are called primary irritations, but if these reactions

occur several hours after touching and sticking to the

skin, then these irritations are called secondary

irritations.

2.9.2 Moisturizing Activity Test

Samples that did not experience allergies and

irritations, then tested the application of Avena

sativa extract cream for 4 weeks. The grouping is

divided into: Group I: 10 people testing for the blank

formula (F0).Group II: 10 people testing for the

formula 2.5% (F1).Group III: 10 people testing for

the 5% formula (F2). Group IV: 10 people testing

ICHIMAT 2019 - International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology

320

for the 7.5% formula (F3).Avena sativa extract

cream was applied to 1 ml of the left zygomaticum

area with a size of 3 x 4 cm (using a syringe). To

reduce bias, samples are asked not to use cosmetic

products in the test area 2 weeks before the study

and protect the test area from direct sunlight. Skin

hydration measurements were performed at the

beginning of the study using a skin analyzer on day

0 (before the application of extract cream), day 7,

day 14, day 21 and day 28. Before measurement all

samples were asked to be in the lab for 15 minutes at

C so that the skin can acclimatize at room

temperature.

3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSSION

Based on the extraction of Avena sativa samples

conducted by maceration technique with 96%

ethanol for five daysdays started fromadried

simplisia 2000 gr will resulted a green brownish

thick extract 160 gr (8% w/w) with sticky

consistency and odorless.

Figure 1. Avena sativa green-brownish thick extract.

The cream was made by a modified standard

formula. Avena sativa’s extract was used to make

cream preparations in a concentration of 2.5%; 5%;

7.5% and blank. Cream preparations obtained in the

form of a green brownish cream with no odor.

Figure 2. Cream preparation of blank (F0), Oats extract

2.5 % (F1), 5% (F2), 7.5% (F3).

Homogenity examination results on Avena sativa

cream were found to be homogeneous, there were no

coarse grains. The results of the type of cream

emulsion test showed that the methyl blue color

could be homogeneous or spread evenly in the

cream so that it could be proven that the cream

preparations made had an oil-type emulsion in water

(m/a).

Figure 3. Cream homogenity of blank (F0), oats extract

2.5 % (F1), 5% (F2), 7.5% (F3).

Instability of the formulation can be detected in

several ways with a change in physical appearance,

color, odor and phase separation from the

formulation. Generally, an emulsion is considered

physically unstable if all or part of the inner phase

liquid is not emulsified and forms a different layer

on the surface or base of the emulsion. Therefore, it

Potential Effect of Avena Sativa’s Cream on Skin Hydration

321

needs to do an evaluation test for 3 months and is

considered as the minimum stability that must be

had by an emulsion.

Figure 4. Cream emulsion test of blank (F0), oats extract

2.5 % (F1), 5% (F2), 7.5% (F3).

The pH measurement of the preparation is

done after completion, then after storing the first

week until the 12th week. The results of the

measurement of the pH of each formula showed that

with increasing concentrations of Avena sativa

extract, the pH of the preparations was getting lower,

but the change was still within the standard pH

requirements for cream preparations, namely

between 5-8 pH(Tranggono, 2007).

Table 3. pH of blank (F0), oats extract 2.5 % (F1), 5%

(F2), 7.5% (F3) observed during 12 weeks.

pH in

Avg

for 12

weeks

Formula

7.7

7.3

7.2

7.5

7.3

7.2

7.3

7.2

7.0

7.3

7.1

7.2

7.1

7.3

7.1

7.2

7.1

7.2

7.1

7.2

7.1

7.0

7.1

7.0

7.1

6.9

7.0

6.9

7.0

6.9

7.0

7.1

7.0

6.9

Table 4. Stability of blank (F0), oats extract 2.5 % (F1), 5%

(F2), 7.5% (F3) observed during 90 days. Change of

stability indicated by (-) symbol.

Stability

for 90

days

Formula

Each formula that has been observed for 90

days gives good results that is not experiencing

changes in color, odor and phase separation. It

means that cream showed a good long-term stability.

Irritationtest results carried out on the skin of

volunteers show no visible side effects in the form of

redness, itching and coarseness. Similar results were

reported in a study conducted by Goujon in France.

The study evaluated immediate and delayed allergic

reactions in the use of oats extract containing cream

for 45 days in 12 adult samples. The result is cream

with oat extract does not give an allergic reaction in

all samples (Goujon C, 2009).

There is a significant increase in skin

hydration after the use of Avena sativa extract cream

for 4 weeks. There are differences in the mean skin

hydration in the examined groups (F0 and F1, F0

and F2, F0 and F3, F1 and F2, F2 and F3). An

increase in water content in each of the volunteer

skins, but highest in formula F3. The results of

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322

measurements of moisture (moisture) on the skin of

volunteers can be seen in Table 5 below:

Table 5: Data from the measurement of water content

ofoats extract cream on the faces area of volunteers after

using cream for 4 weeks. Where as the indication of

dehidration 0-29; Normal 30-50; Hidrated 51-100 (Aramo,

2012).

Formula

Average Hydration (%)

Initial

DuringApplication(Weeks)

III

31,5

31,8

31.9

32,2

32,5

31,4

33,2

33,8

36.3

31,7

34,4

37.8

39,4

34,8

37,1

39.1

40.5

Figure 5.Representation of the increase on the hydration

due to the topical application of modified cream of oats

extract observed for 4 weeks.

The mechanism of hydrated effects is

proposed by the Β-glucan compounds contained in

oats which play a role in storing water and forming a

barrier in the stratum corneum layer on the skin.

This reduces the reduction in Transepidermal water

loss (TEWL) which plays a role in increasing skin

hydration (Reynertson et al, 2015).

The same thing was reported in research

conducted by Reynertson while measurements were

made with a corneometer on 29 samples that

experienced skin dryness in the lower limbs. At the

measurement of 14 days after the use of the cream

formula with oats extraction, a significant increase

in skin hydration was obtained (p <0.05)

(Reynertson et al, 2015).

4 CONCLUSIONS

The improvement of skin hydration by avena sativa

formulated creamshowed a significant improvement

(p < 0.05) with an increase in the mean difference in

dryness scores from baseline to the end of each

treatment interval of 28 days. Cream formulation of

avena sativa extract is proven to improve skin

hydration.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This research supported by Ministry of Research,

Technology and Higher Education by Funding

Contract No. 7/E/KPT/2019 and No.

T/63/L1.3.1/PT.01.03/2019.

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