Sunda Culinary as a Gastronomic Tourism Attraction

in West Java

Taufiq Hidayat

and Anti Riyanti

Program Studi Usaha Perjalanan Wisata Sekolah Tinggi Ilmu Ekonomi Pariwisata – YAPARI, Bandung, Indonesia

Program Studi Perhotelan, Sekolah Tinggi Ilmu Ekonomi Pariwisata – YAPARI, Bandung, Indonesia

Keyword: Sundanese culinary, Gastronomic, tourism Attraction, West Java

Abstract: This study aims to describe the culinary of West Java as a tourist attraction Gastronomy. West Java is a

province that has a variety of traditional culinary, knowledge related to the type of culinary has become its

own tourist attraction that is in demand by tourists. One of the culinary that can be developed as a tourist

attraction is Surabi and Nasi Liwet, focus of research related to how history, tradition, philosophy, the

preparation, production and presentation process that is delivered from generation to generation are

interesting to be investigated as a tourist attraction. This study used descriptive qualitative method. by using

theories from Damanik and Weber, which explain that tourist attractions can be built through the

uniqueness, originality, authenticity, and diversity. While the data collection technique through in-depth

interviewing, observing, and studying documentation. The results showed that Sundanese culinary namely

Surabi and Nasi Liwet has uniqueness, originality, authenticity, and diversity. The uniqueness can be seen

from the symbol that has historical meaning and value contained in it, originally illustrated in the processing

of raw materials with the authenticity of rice flour ingredients while maintaining original variants such as

topping oncom with burning process using stoves and clay molds, and using castrol for nasi liwet, this

illustrates its authenticity.

1 INTRODUCTION

In realizing tourism development in the province of

West Java, the West Java Culture and Tourism

Office created a "Visit West Java" program in 2011,

which aims to attract tourists by introducing that

West Java is an area that has diverse tourism

resource potentials. The Government of Indonesia

through the Ministry of Tourism is targeting foreign

tourist visits (wisman), and domestic tourist visits

(wisnus) with the target of tourism development in

the province of West Java can be seen in the

following table:

Table 1.

Indonesia

2019

Indonesia

2025

West

Java

2019

West

Java

2025

Number

of visits

foreign

tourists

20 million 25 million 3 million

(15%

national

number)

4.5

million

(50%

growth)

Number

domestic

tourist

tri

275

million

371

million

(20%

national

numbe

)

million

(27 %

growth)

Source: West Java Province Regional Regulation, 2015

To support of the target of the visit, West Java

made a vision of tourism development in the

Regional Regulation of West Java Province Number

15 of 2015 is "making West Java a world-class

tourism destination that is integrated, sustainable and

upholds cultural values." One of the cultural

manifestations produced by Java West is a culinary

art.

Hidayat, T. and Riyanti, A.

Sunda Culinary as a Gastronomic Tourism Attraction in West Java.

DOI: 10.5220/0010215601590165

In Proceedings of the 1st NHI Tourism Forum (NTF 2019) - Enhancing Innovation in Gastronomic for Millennials, pages 159-165

ISBN: 978-989-758-495-4

159

Tourism and food are two things that can not be

separated, although food is a supporter of tourism

activities, but its existence is always needed, this is

evidenced from the existence of various tourism

support facilities such as restaurants, cafes, bars to

street restaurants. The city of Bandung is a well-

known as tourist destination, one of its tourism

products is Gastronomy (gastronomy tourism).

Gastronomy tourism is a new trend in the world of

tourism in Indonesia, gastronomy as a study of the

relationship between culture and food, where

gastronomy studies various components of culture

with food as its center. Gastronomy is the art or

search for good quality food, including in the

selection, preparation, service and enjoyment of

food, and variations in culture or style of cuisine

(Kardigantara and Goeltom, 2007) Kardigantara &

Goeltom, 2007). While the term culinary (culinary)

which is more often discussed in the community is

part / sub of the essence of gastronomy.

Nowadays the city of Bandung has become a

special tourism icon with its culinary products,

several types of culinary products namely liwet rice

and traditional snacks that are popular in Bandung

are surabi. This snack is made from rice flour and

coconut milk which is burned on firewood using

traditional furnace tools and special molds from

clay. Surabi generally consist of three types, a sweet

taste by using liquid sugar or kinca; served with a

spicy taste using oncom; and can also served with a

salty taste mixed with eggs. But along with the

development of creativity of producers, surabi can

be eaten in a variety of processed dishes, from

serving traditional surabi to surabi with modern

toppings, which also become one of the icons of

creative food in the city of Bandung.

Base on the background that has been described

above, it is necessary for researchers to do a research

related to Sundanese culinary of West Java as a

tourist attraction Gastronomy. The purpose of this

research is to find out the historical and philosophical

values of Liwet and Surabi rice, to know the process

of preparation, production and serve.

2 LITERATURE REVIEW

Turgarini (Tridayanti and Turgarini, 2019) who said

that a study of aspects of gastronomy, consist of

practical gastronomy, theoretical gastronomy,

technical gastronomy, food gastronomy, and

molecular gastronomy (Molecular Gastronomy). In

some tourist destinations, gastronomy is used as a

tool capable of producing tourist attractions.

Gastronomy in Indonesia itself is formed from a

blend of culture and food from countries such as

India, the Middle East, China and European Nations

such as the Portuguese and the Dutch. The

distinctive feature of Indonesian cuisine is that it is

found in sambal which gives a spicy flavor even

though sambal is currently a very diverse

modification of chilli. The inclusion of culture and

cuisine from India influences the taste of Indonesian

cuisine, such as the use of spices and coconut milk

mixture in cooking.

Gastronomy is a guide on various ways that

involve everything about food and drinks, according

to (Santich, 2004). The study is very

interdisciplinary with regard to reflection from a

history, cultural impact and environmental

atmosphere regarding "How, where, when, and why.

Gastronomy or catering is the art or science of food

that is (Good eating).”

Meanwhile according to (Rao et al.,

2005)Gastronomy describes the influence of the

environment (geography and climate) and culture

(history and ethnicity) on the components of aroma,

texture and taste in food and drinks. Gastronomic

identity is in the interests of an area (the State) in

determining cultural diversity and culinary rhetoric.

According to (Gilleisole, 2001) gastronomy or

catering is an art, or good eating science. A shorter

explanation mentions gastronomy as anything

related to the enjoyment of food and drink.

Gastronomic study corridors generally

emphasize the 4 (four) elements (Ketaren, 2017)

Here are the components to watch out for :

a. History: regarding the origin of raw materials,

how and where to be cultivated.

b. Culture: the factors that influence the local

community to consume these foods.

c. Geographical Landscape: concerning

environmental factors (natural & ethnic that

affect the community cooking food).

d. Cooking methods: regarding to the general

cooking process. Not about technical cooking

because a gastronome does not have to be able

to cook. The four elements are called tangible

(real, clear and materialized) which is always

used as a benchmark for western society when

talking about gastronomy.

Tourism Attractions are explained as everything

that has a uniqueness, convenience, and value in the

form of diversity of natural wealth, culture, and

man-made products that are targeted or visited by

tourists. (Damanik and Weber, 2006) Stated that

good tourism attractions are closely related to four

things, which are unique, originality, authenticity,

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and diversity. Uniqueness is defined as a

combination of scarcity and distinctiveness inherent

in a tourist attraction. Originality reflects

authenticity or purity, that is, to what extent a

product is not contaminated or does not adopt a

different value from the original value. Authenticity

refers to authenticity. The difference with

originality, authenticity is more often associated

with the level of beauty or cultural exoticism as a

tourist attraction. Authenticity is a category of

values that combines natural, exotic, and

understated.

3 METHOD

The research design used in this study is qualitative

research, which is used to find deeper meaning from

something (Sugiyono, 2014). Data collection

techniques obtained through observation, interviews,

and study documentation. Random interviews were

conducted with the people who made and sold Liwet

and Surabi rice. Interviews were conducted to

strengthen field data on aspects of Surabi and Rice

Liwet in terms of historical and philosophical

values, as well as the process of preparation,

production and presentation. So as to be able to

answer about the gastronomic tourist attraction. The

object of research is the traditional Sundanese food

gastronomy called Surabi and Nasi Liwet which can

be said to be a tourist attraction. The five phase

approach in this study can be seen from the

following illustration:

Illustration 1.

Source: Processed Researcher, 2019

4 RESULT AND DISCUSSION

4.1 History of Sundanese Philosophy

and Tradition

Discovered the culinary potential of Indonesia,

especially West Java, the government developed the

potential for gastronomic tourism, through 3

gastronomic concepts called triangle concepts.

Triangle concept is a philosophy of gastronomy

pivoting on 3 triangle concepts, namely food,

culture, history

Illustration 2.

Source: Kemenpar, 2017

In culture, food is connected with history which

can be seen in various traditional ceremonies owned

by each region. Various traditional ceremonies

involving various culinary delights also hold a

special attraction for tourists.

Indonesia has a culinary history, cultural

traditions, raw materials and different processing

techniques. Gastronomic tourism provides

experiences, results from the learning process of

different cultures. Culinary not only as something

that is consumed, but it becomes the nature or

attributes associated with tourism products.

Gastronomic is not just culinary, but more emphasis

on the activity of enjoying food, which is

accompanied by experience and study the history

and culture of the food itself.

Question

• Observation & Questioning

Define

• Communicate &

Counseling

Communicate

• Diagnosis

Educate

• Treatment

Audit

• Observation

Sunda Culinary as a Gastronomic Tourism Attraction in West Java

161

Illustration 3.

Source: Processed Researcher, 2019

This tendency gives an indication that tourist

attraction is not only natural, cultural and special

events, food is also an attraction for a tourist

destination. Food is important for tourists, who

travel to visit places for reasons to find special food.

Surabi and nasi liwet have become a cultural and

food identity found in West Java, especially in

Bandung. The word surabi comes from the word

"sura" in Sundanese language which means big,

Surabi itself is a traditional snack that is usually sold

by sellers in the market. Since it was created around

1923, surabi has been declared a traditional Javanese

food because it is more popular in this island. In

West Java, surabi has become one of the hereditary

foods taught by the ancestors to the Sundanese.

Serabi sometimes called srabi or surabi is one of

the snacks or snacks that come from Indonesia.

Serabi are similar to pancakes (pannekoek or

pannenkoek) but are made from rice flour (not flour)

and given a sweet liquid sauce (usually from

coconut sugar). This sauce varies according to

regions in Indonesia. The type of pancake based on

the region of origin, consist of :

1. Surabi Cirebon, plain textured without topping

(can be adjusted if you want added topping), made

from rice flour, flour, coconut milk, and grated

coconut. It tastes delicious and is usually roasted on

charcoal. Usually served with oreg tempe or dage

oncom. There is also a serabi with a sweet variety of

flavors namely red serabi / serabi which is made by

mixing brown sugar into serabi mixture before

cooking.

2. Surabi Solo or Serabi Solo, made from rice

flour and coconut milk mixture, roasted on charcoal.

It tastes delicious and is usually also topped with

banana, jackfruit, meses, or cheese. Serabi Solo has

thin and crispy edges, while the middle part is

denser, different from Cirebon pancakes and

Bandung pancakes, which are all dense and not

crispy.

3. Surabi Bandung, made from flour, eggs, and

coconut water, cooked by baking. Usually Bandung

pancakes are better eaten with kinca sauce, a sauce

made from a mixture of brown sugar, coconut milk

and pandan leaves. Bandung pancakes are usually

white or green with various toppings such as cheese

sausage, chocolate cheese, corned beef, eggs, etc.

In general, foods made from rice flour are typical

from Bandung, West Java. This food is a

characteristic of the city of Bandung and is very

popular today with a variety of innovative flavors. In

making these foods using the following ingredients:

Rice Flour, Eggs, Coconut Milk, Coconut, Salt,

Sugar, and Water. This food is included in

traditional cakes that are served hot with a roasting

process using a furnace.

Not only surabi, in West Java there is a

traditional cuisine commonly called as nasi liwet.

Liwet rice is a culinary specialties of the natives. In

ancient times the liwet rice was used as a symbol of

ceremonies or cuisine served by the nobles in the era

of the empire, for workers with the intention that

when they returned home the wife would not bother

to cook. According to Javanese customs, liwet rice is

also a special dish that is always present in every

sekaten celebration (Bratasiswara, 2000).

The history or origin of the Liwet rice actually

begins with the commemoration of the Prophet's

birthday, where every month, the Solo people

routinely hold a ceremonial ceremony or commonly

referred to as (Kenduri). Selametan ceremony was

intended to commemorate the birthday of the

Prophet Muhammad in the hope of getting a

blessing. Kompasiana.com (edition 17-04-2016)

accessed on 08/13/2019, in Javanese Culture, Liwet

rice has many meanings even according to

(Mardiwarsito, 1980) in Javanese Proverbs and

Books, Nasi (Javanese: sego, sekul) is very rich in

messages and meaning, explaining some cultural

messages about rice (sego, sekul). Can be

exemplified, that the sekul farewell (rice farewell),

which is too late to do something and does not get

his salary. A teaching for the importance of

discipline. Sekul urug (pile of rice), that is,

everything that has no benefits. Hoarding with rice

equals bad actions, in vain because it will disappear.

Sundanese liwet rice keeps a story. It was from

the life of the plantation community, Sundanese

liwet rice was born from economizing reasons.

Travel.Kompas.com (edition 10-06-2017) accessed

on 08/13/2019, according to Murdijati Gardjito, a

gastronomic expert who is also a researcher at the

Tourism

Attraction

Culinary Gastronomic

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Center for Food and Nutrition Studies at Gajah

Mada University (UGM) "Liwet Rice was originally

born from savings, so rice is also included side

dishes in it, ". According to him that the first

community in the Land of Sunda to reach

plantations must pass a considerable distance. After

arriving in the garden, far from food sources.

Therefore Liwet rice is brought with a place of

cooking, kettle or castrol that is tightly closed.

The aim of liwet rice in Sunda is to save money,

in contrast to Java. Because Sundanese people used

to eat rice with salted fish and chili sauce was

enough. For vegetables, just take it directly from the

garden, usually called lalapan. Side dishes that are

usually put in Sundanese liwet rice are also unique,

and different from the others. Like red peda fish,

mackerel that has been scavenged, can also be salted

fish. Everything is cooked with half-cooked rice

without using coconut milk.

4.1.1 Process of Preparation, Production

and Presentation

In the process of preparation that traditional food in

the form of surabi has a unique way, namely by the

process of grinding rice first. Good rice and has been

recommended by food and beverage service

entrepreneurs in West Java, namely rice called

"Pandan Wangi" because of its good quality. The

process of shredding coconut is a process that is

always done by surabi sellers to make it easier to

produce coconut milk or Sundanese people

commonly call cai pati, the addition of salt to

strengthen the dough and hold moisture and produce

density.

The production phase is a very important phase,

maintaining the temperature of a piece of wood or

commonly referred to as torches or charcoal is not

easy. The molds commonly used in producing surabi

are molds derived from clay, clay molds are able to

keep surabi batter from being soft.

How to make surabi the first step boil coconut

milk, while stirring until it boils, remove and let

warm the nails, stir in rice flour, coconut and salt

until smooth. Fill in Pandan water and warm coconut

milk little by little while the mixture is stirred until

the mixture is shiny for 30 minutes, prepare the

ground pan, heat it over charcoal or firewood fire,

spread with a little oil then add the mixture, cover

the pan until cooked.

There are two types of surabi that have been

modified, salted Surabi, where in the mixture uses

salt and topping such as oncom or serundeng, salted

surabi has been modified with several toppings

according to its development. Sausages and

mayonnaise are raw materials that are widely used

today. Surabi sweet has a difference with salted

surabi, the raw material of sugar can be a substitute

for salt, as well as the addition of kinca sauce as a

complement to surabi. Sweet Surabi that has been

modified to get additional toppings such as grated

cheese and chocolate.

Surabi itself is served using banana leaves which

can be the base and natural food wrapping and can

give a unique impression on surabi. Surabi has

become a daily snack to meet the needs of breakfast.

Although in general Surabi itself can be found in

various food service businesses in West Java.

Nasi Liwet is a traditional Indonesian cuisine

that is distributed throughout the archipelago. The

main raw material is rice which is one of the staples

for the people of Indonesia, the addition of spices

such as onions, garlic, lemongrass, bay leaves, and

tomatoes and the addition of other herbs in

accordance with the characteristics of their

respective regions, can add to the aroma from the

liwet rice itself.

There are two types of liwet rice which are

popular among the people, namely Sunda liwet rice

and Solo liwet rice. The difference between

Sundanese liwet rice and Solo liwet rice is the use of

coconut milk in Solo liwet rice.

Ngaliwet or liwet itself is a rice cooking

technique by mixing rice and water or coconut milk,

in a special place such as pendil or castrol in order to

keep the rice warm if it is tightly closed. How to

make Sundanese liwet rice the first step is to wash

the rice first, then put it in the pan, add water to two

fingers. Do not forget to add the seasoning until

smooth, then let stand about 45 minutes, until

cooked.

Sundanese liwet rice is usually served on a

banana leaf which is used as a base, served with side

dishes that have been united with rice. Side dishes

such as red peda fish, mackerel mackerel, salted fish

and fried chicken equipped with tofu, tempe, and

fresh vegetables and chili paste to complement the

dish.

Surabi and Liwet Rice are potential to be a

tourist attraction, such as the historical and value

contained in it and its uniqueness in the making

process can be Sundanese gastronomic tourism

attraction. Surabi has a variety of flavors so that it

has a different look and color, this illustrates the

diversity, coupled with the appearance of toppings

that are also different from each other to make it

unique. its authenticity, drawn from its value,

appearance and exoticism, and its originality, is

Sunda Culinary as a Gastronomic Tourism Attraction in West Java

163

Gastronomic Tourist

Attractions

Local Food Correlation

With West Java Tourism

The Local

Food Of The

Relationship

With The

Interest Of The

Tourists In The

Original Local

Community

The Role Of Gastronomy

As A Tourism Experience

Center

Local Culture

To Be

Valuable As

Products And

Activities

Attract

Tourists

drawn from the basic ingredients and the

manufacturing process.

In Sundanese liwet rice, not only rice is cooked,

but also the side dishes are cooked together with

rice. For example, mackerel fish, red peda fish, or

salted fish. Everything is cooked together with half-

cooked rice in a kettle or castrol. This is why Liwet

rice has a rich flavor, It illustrates the diversity and

uniqueness. Its authenticity, drawn from its value,

appearance and exoticism, and its originality, is

drawn from the basic ingredients and the

manufacturing process.

Gastronomy makes surabi food and liwet rice a

cultural product of Sundanese community groups,

which can become a local cultural identity of West

Java. On the other hand culture is one component of

tourist attraction, because people travel to West Java

with the aim of enjoying the originality of

Sundanese culture. Surabi local food and nasi liwet

is a part of gastronomy that has the power of

creating these foods, there are historical stories and

traditions that can be told when tourists enjoy local

surabi and nasi liwet food, which are packaged in an

interesting way so this makes the gastronomic

attraction for tourists who visit to West Java. This

Sundanese culinary as an attraction for gastronomic

tourism can be seen from the following illustration

Illustration 4.

Source: Processed Researcher, 2019

Some of the most important things in gastronomy

are get the right ingredient, be creative or to use

locally available in creative ways and make sure it is

authentic. Surabi and nasi liwet can be packaged

with an interesting presentation, which is the

manufacturing activity together with an attractive

story, and promoted with other attractions that

support a destination. This will make the power for

gastronomic tourism in West Java. Surabi and nasi

liwet can strengthen Sundanese impressions and

identities as aspects of local culture and heritage.

5 CONCLUSION

Gastronomy explains the relationship between

culture and food. Gastronomy explains cultural

components such as history, traditions, belief

systems and folklore that develop in a society with

food as its center. Gastronomic collaboration as a

tourist attraction provides benefits to the people of

West Java. Gastronomy provides added value to

destinations through travel experiences, so tourism

plays a role in maintaining the sustainability of

existing local food.

Culinary gastronomic harmonizes culture and

tourism. Local culture is valuable as a product and

activity to attract tourists. Gastronomic makes the

Surabi and Nasi Liwet culinary centers the center of

tourist experience and shaping the identity of native

Sundanese local communities. The appeal of Surabi

and Liwet Rice is illustrated by its uniqueness that

has many variants of flavor with various topings and

various side dishes that are also cooked, its

originality is illustrated through the uniqueness of

the basic ingredients used and the manufacturing

process; and the authenticity shown is through the

values and exoticism of the display and the way of

presentation that is different from surabi and other

nasi liwet.

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