A Critical Review of Ketupat Babanci: The Development of

Traditional Menu

Raden Nana Kusdiana

, Indra Kusumawardhana

and Triwiyana

Hotel Management Department, Faculty of Economics & Communication, Bina Nusantara University, Jakarta, Indonesia

11480

Tourism Department, Faculty of Economics & Communication, Bina Nusantara University, Jakarta, Indonesia 11480

Keywords: Ketupat Babanci, Indonesian Cuisine, Traditional Food.

Abstract: The development of tourism products and particularly food tourism have had to adapt to newly trends and

the demands of the market. A strategical thinking on food tourism in developing and sustaining local

identities within the context of traditional cuisine is upsurge. The closer relation through food gastronomy is

essential to understand historical, socio-cultural value and identify an internal strengths and weaknesses of

food menu item within the potential market and sustainability issues. Therefore, benefitted from critical

gastronomy and analysis performance, the article looks deeper and reveals undiscovered value on the

traditional menu of Ketupat Babanci as the Betawi tribes’ authentic menu, the article provides the critical

review and framework thinking for contemporary menu development initiative. The example through both

primary and secondary data is provided to result the findings. The methods and model of thinking might

help one to involve in the culinary development process and deal with sustainability purposes.

1 INTRODUCTION

A connection between local food production and

tourism is recognized by tourism sector, which

involve the various parties that make up these

structures. Gastronomy plays important role to

contribute as globalization and competition between

tourism destinations is escalated, local culture

through cuisine is source of new discussion to think

about products and activities to attract and amuse

tourists in postmodern societies (Richards, 2003). A

visible phenomenon and scientifically prove, it is a

common that people hunt for traditional food on

weekends or holidays as part of food tourism

activities (Henderson, 2009)(Everett, S., &

Aitchison, 2008)(Hall, C. M., Sharples, L., Mitchell,

R., Macionis, N., & Cambourne, 2004). In

Indonesia, a traditional food is becoming popular in

various circles as there is business growth in this

particular sector (Alamsyah, 2013), (Helina, E.,

Priandarini, L., & Puspita, 2007). Traditional food is

types of food menu originated from a particular

place (Sastroamidjojo, 1995). Moreover, traditional

food or culinary could present an identity or reflect

the culture of a nation, place and also the area of

origin (Saraswati, L. A., & Wardhani, 2012),

(Mantu, 2015). Noticeable, the most prominent time

of traditional food market is during the fasting

month where many people from various quarters

will present traditional specialties compared with

food from abroad or else. The month of fasting is the

month in which the Moslems do the activities to not

eat and drink starting from sunrise to sunset (Ali,

1985).

As (Richards, 2003) argued “as tourists become

more mobile, so does the food they eat”, Indonesia

traditional culinary is also known and part of

tourism products for both domestic and international

tourist’s consumption. Although, (Prawitasari, 2012)

reported that Indonesia has only 30 iconic traditional

cuisine. But, from east to west of Indonesia

archipelagos, there were lots of traditional menu as a

source of food and commodities for local

community to represent their social and cultural

identity, particularly in the capital city of Jakarta

where ‘Betawi’ tribes are the native resident (Adi,

2010), (Shihab, 2002). Betawi cuisine has potential

of tourism products and represent the culture

(Untari, 2016), (Untari, D. T., Avenzora, R.,

Darusman, D., Prihatno, J., & Arief, 2017). As such

(Untari, 2016) argued and discussed that Betawi

culinary as potential products of ecotourism in

248

Kusdiana, R., Kusumawardhana, I. and Triwiyana, .

A Critical Review of Ketupat Babanci: The Development of Traditional Menu.

DOI: 10.5220/0010005900002917

In Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Social Sciences, Laws, Arts and Humanities (BINUS-JIC 2018), pages 248-253

ISBN: 978-989-758-515-9

Jakarta. Hence, (Untari, D. T., Avenzora, R.,

Darusman, D., Prihatno, J., & Arief, 2017) said

Betawi traditional cuisine through its uniqueness,

originality, social value, distribution, sensitivity and

seasonality were able to represent Betawi socio-

cultural existence. Furthermore, Betawi cuisine has

more than fifty types of authentic traditional food

and beverages, which distinguished its flavour and

taste such as the popular Gado-gado (mix salad), the

true choice of Nasi Uduk Betawi (Coconut Rice) and

Soto Betawi (Betawi Coconut Soup), the famous

Kerak Telor (Mix of Fried Egg), and the traditional

sweets of Dodol Betawi, Geplak and Gemblong as

well as Bir Pletok as their well-known traditional

beverages (Indonesia A K, 2016). However, Ketupat

Babanci as one of the genuine Betawi traditional

food seems unpopular and forgotten at Betawi

traditional cuisine since. In this sense, there is a

concern about a production and sustainability of

Ketupat Babanci menu as a Betawi authentic

traditional culinary within the tribes as well as

preservation of its production process. Therefore,

derived from a gastronomy review, this qualitative

research analysis is producing the article that

highlights food gastronomy discussion by (Ketaren,

2016) to understand an interaction factors that

useful to find a thinkable strategy to re-introduce

Ketupat Babanci menu and potential development as

common Betawi traditional food in a market. This

article aims to identify facets of tourism interest to

those involved in regional management and local

development so that they might exploit both of

gastronomy conversation and applicable strategic

management as an engine for a broadening of

traditional culinary product and preserve the

uniqueness of the menu.

2 FOOD GASTRONOMY

We strongly encourage authors to use this document

for the preparation of the camera-ready. Please

follow the instructions closely in order to make the

volume look as uniform as possible (Moore and

Lopes, 1999).

Gastronomy and tourism related discussion is

becoming an important feature in the development

of niche travel and tourism industry (Londoño,

2011), (Kivela, J., & Crotts, 2006). Additionally,

both (Richards, 2003) and (Hjalager, A. M., &

Richards, 2003) were agreed that gastronomy’s

activities and conversations comparable to what is

experienced when consuming other tourism products

such as visiting museums or historical sites.

Gastronomy or culinary in other term can be

understood as the art or science of good food (good

eating). Gastronomy is everything related to the

pleasure of eating and drinking. Originally,

gastronomy that derived from Greek – ‘gastros’

(stomach) and ‘gnomos’ (knowledge or law), is a

body of knowledge, which considered the

relationship between the senses and food and the

consumption of food and beverage from a science

perspectives (Kivela, J., & Crotts, 2006). Therefore,

a gastronomy topic would discuss a pleasure in

eating good quality food and reflection of the

process of consumption and processing the food.

The scientist of gastronomy could be traced back

through the work of Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

(1755-1826) by his remarkable publication of La

Physiologie du gout (the physiology of taste) in

1825 (Kivela, J., & Crotts, 2006), (Brillat-Savarin,

1841). Furthermore Ardika in (Miksic, J. N., &

Yian, 2017) added that gastronomy also include a

detailed knowledge of national foods and beverages

from major countries around the world. In this sense,

the role of gastronomy is the basis for understanding

how food and drink are used in certain situations.

Nevertheless, (Ketaren, 2016) informed and

described gastronomy from various discussion for

this study’s review including and the intersection

between the culinary and gastronomy as well as

provide the example of the food within the Indonesia

traditional culinary. There are 5 (five) aspects,

fields, or point of view that designated of

gastronomy topics, namely:

1. Practical Gastronomy: the practice to convert

a raw material to be served that comprise of

application, preparation, production, and food

service

2. Theory of Gastronomy: the theoretical

discussion that describe a proses, system and food

recipe, often to produce an academic paper or

review.

3. Technical Gastronomy: the activities done by

culinary experts, food technologist, consultant,

professional practitioner and businessman in a

relation to give an assessment, evaluation and

systematical gastronomy.

4. Molecular Gastronomy: discuss about the

transformation of physical-chemical process sourced

from raw ingredients during the cooking process and

consumption method.

5. Food Gastronomy: discuss about the food

menu from several perspectives such as historical,

socio-cultural, geographic value, and cooking

method (Ketaren, 2016).

A Critical Review of Ketupat Babanci: The Development of Traditional Menu

249

In this case, the article would like to look the

Ketupat Babanci menu from the food gastronomy

point of view. Food gastronomic is used to achieve

the objectives of a research, especially to study and

review the ketupat babanci menu towards historical,

socio-cultural within the Betawi tribe, its geographic

value and cooking method such as the use of basic

materials and the making of the menu, including its

uniqueness in terms of processing and presentation

of the food. In addition, this theory approach is also

used to see the process rather than making the menu

under study to be able to make it a potential culinary

attraction. Food gastronomy theory is looking from

actor’s point of view who support practical

gastronomy by studying the ketupat babanci

historical value, processes, systems of recipes that

are implemented into academic or scientific writing.

In order to do so, the review will go towards the

menu document and formulate various kinds of

procedures that must be done to maximize learning

and efficiency of food processing and improve the

success in processing the food

3 RESEARCH METHODS

For the mutual benefit and protection of Authors and

Publishers, it is necessary that Authors provide

formal written Consent to Publish and Transfer of

signed Consent ensures that the publisher has the

Author’s authorization to publish the Contribution.

With a limited number of research conducted on

the food tourism (Ellis, A., Park, E., Kim, S., &

Yeoman, 2018), particularly towards gastronomy.

Whilst, (Atkins, L., & Wallace, 2012) uses

qualitative methodological terms of “people-

focused”— instead of “objective” study that

represent quantitative methodological terms. A

qualitative research method that pressed an insight

into individuals’ perceptions regarding several issues

of concern is suitable for this article to be conducted

especially in the subject concerning about tourism

(Hollinshead, 2004). (Bryman, 2012) argued that

qualitative research strategy is broadly

constructionist, inductivist, and interpretivist by

nature. Therefore, the qualitative research method to

review ketupat babanci menu as traditional menu

development would inform this research method. A

semi structured interview to several stakeholders

surrounded area of Rawabelong, Palmerah at west

side of Jakarta greater district province were

established. The region is well-known place for

Betawi tribes’ resident lived and socialized.

Regardless the demographic concern, the

knowledge, the understanding, and perception about

Ketupat Babanci menu item as traditional betawi

food item were asked from local governance officers

within the district and the Betawi tribes community

living in the area. The qualitative strategic analysis

approach (Merriam, S. B., & Tisdell, 2015) was

employed against the twelve interview transcript

through both gastronomy dialogues (Ketaren, 2016).

Finally, the results produce the conclusion and

critical discussion on Ketupat babanci as the

betawi’s traditional menu development.

4 FOOD GASTRONOMY OF

KETUPAT BABANCI

It is understandable that food is one of the basic

human needs. Foods consumed by humans are

recommended to contain the nutrients that fit the

needs of the body. Indonesia, which is famous for its

cultural diversity, also has a diversity in its food.

Each tribe in Indonesia has distinctive dishes that are

different with different tastes. Looking towards of

food gastronomy point of discussion and the

interview transcripts, this argument provides the

research findings. Firstly, historically and socio-

cultural perspectives, Betawi is the origin tribes who

inhabit Java Island in Indonesia, precisely in city of

Jakarta (Batavia), which has legendary local cultural

wisdom (Shihab, 2002). Moreover, (Ruchiat, R.,

Wibisono, S., & Syamsudin, 2000) provided the

narrative of traditional Betawi culture such as

traditional dance that always include a traditional

food. Like dance, culinary is part of Indonesian

culture identity (Wongso, 2015). Among more than

50 types of food as well as traditional beverages that

characterize as the Betawi customs and culinary

traditions, Ketupat Babanci also known as a 1000

herbs and spices dishes (Indonesia A K, 2016).

Often called Ketupat Babanci because it is eaten

with ketupat which is presented as one of the special

menu for Betawi people during Eid celebration.

Popular with the name 'bebanci' which is only

available during the traditional celebration, the

menu’s acculturation is a typical taste of Arabian

kitchen and Betawi spice. The uniqueness tastes

come from the contents of young coconut meat. The

Babanci or Sayur Babanci label comes from the

uncertainty of this type of vegetable. This dish is not

soto (clear soup), but also it is not a type of food like

a curry or stew cuisine. Therefore, these uncertainty

is what makes this type of vegetable soup is called a

transvestite. One of the factors of this food is

BINUS-JIC 2018 - BINUS Joint International Conference

250

increasingly rare because of the difficulty of

collecting spices or herbs that become raw materials.

Ketupat Babanci has at least 21 types of ingredients,

herbs, and spices. Some spices are also even rare,

such as kedaung, botor, tai angin, lempuyang, temu

mangga, temu kunci and bangle. Other uniqueness

of this menu item is from the type of menu since

although the name vegetables but the ingredients

that used do not contain vegetables at all. Thus,

(Indonesia A K, 2016) said that ‘babanci’ refers to

the "behavior" of this dish whose associated as sissy

a.k.a. an identity that is difficult to define. In

general, the menu also reflects the character of

Betawi people who are funny and nyleneh

(comedian). Additionally, one of the experts of

Indonesian culinary, Bondan Winarno, the initiator

of the Silk Road Community, argued that babanci

may also be an acronym of Baba-Enci, a Chinese

call, so it could be a Chinese-Betawi Peranakan dish.

Other opinions say that is possible acronyms from

Babeh-Encing which are typical Betawi calls (babeh

for father's calling, encing for aunt's call). This

ketupat babanci menu once included a fancy dishes

as it was only served by the Betawi family of

defenders (foreman, landlord). Furthermore, Ketupat

babanci or Sayur babanci resembles gule which is

very dominant in the aroma and strong spice flavour.

Originaly, the meat used in the making of ketupat

babanci is the head of the cow, but does not include

the brain, tongue, and cingur (nose). In addition,

ketupat and “srundeng” (finely ground grated

coconut) is served altogether on the plate or soup

bowl. However, in the recent times, people

substitute the beef head ingredients with fat-mixed

that mainly made from beef stock. Hence, the used

of herb and spices are not complete as there are

several types of ingredients have been very difficult

to obtain such as lempuyang, temu mangga, temu

kunci and bangle. Second, ketupat babanci

ingredients and the cooking process are unordinary

things. The process of making the menu are

displayed in the table 1.

Table 1: Ketupat Babanci cooking process.

Cooking Process of Ketupat Babanci

The

process:

 Boil all of meat until

tender, take out the meat

and set aside.

 Bring sauté pan to the stove

and heat the oil.

 Sautee spice 1, salam

leaves and lemon

rass

until flavor comes out.

 Add palm sugar and salt,

mix well and lift up.

 Put that spices to the stock.

Simmering the stock and

then pouring water from

young coconut and coconut

milk.

 Put all of meat after cut

small pieces to the stock.

 Heat the stock and stirring

slowly until boiling.

 Put spice 2 and roast grated

coconut.

 Cook until the spices

become absorbed.

 Put meat of young coconut

to the stock, mix well and

lift up.

 Serve hot with the

condimen

Food gastronomy theory could reveal the

strength and weakness of the menu. Ketupat babanci

menu through historical and socio-cultural value

have strengths in the several aspects such as

categorized as fancy menu that served for

distinguished guest and special occasion, the used of

special ingredients that can cure some diseases, the

uniqueness of the name 'babanci' which represent the

authentic betawi words, combination of tastes and

flavour which represent the traditional betawi tribe,

and the used of coconut meat as part of the final

ingredients. However, in the same time the food

gastronomy discussion would show the weakness of

the menu. In this sense, ketupat babanci process and

production is complex. Additionally, there are rare

ingredients that often difficult to find in the ordinary

market, and the limited seller and maker of this

traditional menu, which make this menu unpopular

within the Betawi tribe itself.

5 CONCLUSION

Through the food gastronomy point of view, ketupat

babanci as traditional menu from Betawi tribes

would be categorized as the fancy menu and has

historical value, this can be uplifted and marketed to

re-introduce the menu to the market. Additionally,

the use of special ingredients that useful for medical

purposes can be promoted the menu to serve as dual

function and introduce as traditional Betawi healthy

A Critical Review of Ketupat Babanci: The Development of Traditional Menu

251

food. Although the complexity of the cooking

process and the need of special ingredient is matter.

But, by looking on to different angle, the difficulties

can attract culinary experts to look for molecular

gastronomy discussion and social sustainability

through a local food that has an authentic flavour

and taste. With a need for further deconstruction of

the ways each dimension of sustainability on a

traditional menu ketupat babanci, – historical, socio-

cultural, geographic value, and cooking method –

independently enhances opportunity to bridge

relations across certain diverse groups and foster an

environment conducive to share. It also provides the

critical thinking for Ketupat Babanci as the authentic

traditional Betawi cuisine to re-introduce and have

the opportunity to develop and convert into popular

dishes. The food gastronomy examination on the

Ketupat Babanci menu could provide a clear

discussion and new thinking for the traditional menu

to have development initiative. Hence, it is a way to

provide the ability to use the concept to help

interpret power relations within social groups and

across a community, particularly within Betawi tribe

sustainability. Opportunities to enhance

sustainability through this menu ketupat babanci

were further narrowed through socio-cultural and

historically informed relations, where the continued

importance of the menu ingredients, process and

production are essentials aspects for preserving the

value and uniqueness of the menu. Care needs to be

upheld in regards to the extent to which

enhancement of the traditional menu development

through a specific ‘community’. Food gastronomy

point of discussion prove to be able to produce the

framework thinking for Ketupat Babanci menu to

get examination and evaluation in order to help to

involve in both thinking of regional and local

development in term of product preservation and

sustainability of the menu.

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