Stick Perfume Formulation from Jeumpa Flowers (Magnolia

champaca (L) Baill Ex. Pierre)

Hilda Maysarah

, Irma Sari

, Meutia Faradilla

and Edrina Elfia Rosa

Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Science,

Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh, Indonesia

Keywords: Essential Oil, Stick Perfume, Jeumpa Flowers.

Abstract: The abstract should summarize the contents of the Formulation of stick perfume from jeumpa flower’s

essential oil (Michelia champaca) has been conducted. Essential oil from jeumpa flowers was obtained by

steam distillation method. There were two formulas examined in this study, those are F1 (cera alba 35,07%),

F2 (cera alba 40,07%), using 8% concentrations of jeumpa flowers essential oil. Organoleptic, homogeneity,

melting point, strength and stability were evaluated as quality parameters of stick perfume. The evaluation

results showed that the stick perfume was homogeneous, the melting temperature was 56-59

C, the strength

was 343,33 g (F1), F2 and 380 g (F2), respectively. All formulas were stable and did not cause irritation so

it safe to use. Hedonic test result showed that F1 is preferred by panellists rather than F2 from all of

parameters (shape, fragrance, stickiness, flatness). Based on the results of the quality evaluation it can be

concluded that jeumpa flowers essential oil can be used as perfume agent in stick perfume formulation and

stable during the storage in room temperature for 30 days.

1 INTRODUCTION

Perfume or fragrance oil is a mixture of essential oils

and scented compounds (aroma compounds),

fixatives, and solvents that are used to provide

fragrance to the human body, objects, or rooms

(Sabini, 2006). Usually the basic ingredients of

perfume come from synthetic materials that come

from chemicals, but now the basic ingredients of

perfume from natural ingredients tend to be more

desirable. The aroma produced by natural ingredients

as the basis for perfume is derived from plant’s

essential oils. One of the plants that contain essential

oils and can be used as the basis of natural perfume is

Jeumpa flower (Magnolia champaca (L.) Baill. Ex

Pierre).

Jeumpa flowers contain 0.2% essential oil

obtained through distillation (Bawa, 2011). It

contains linalool, methyl benzoate, benzyl acetate,

cis-linalool oxide pyranoid, phenyl acetonitrile, 2-

phenethyl alcohol, dihydro-ionone, -ionone, -ionone,

dihydro-ionol, methyl anthranilate, indole, methyl

palmitate, ionone oxime and methyl linoleate (Rout,

2006). Linalool is one of the main components of

Jeumpa flowers that is widely used in the perfume

industry because of its strong aroma. While other

components such as indole used as agent

strengthening perceived aroma and increasing the

stability of other aromatic compounds in essential

oils. In other words, indole compound in Jeumpa

flowers may act as fixative. (Pensuk et al., 2007).

There are several methods to isolate essential oils

including the distillation method, enfleurage, and

extraction with solvents. Jeumpa flower essential oil

that will be used in this study was obtained using

steam distillation process. This method was chosen

based on previous research conducted by Pensuk

(2007), in which the essential oil obtained from steam

distillation contains linalool (66.92%) more than

extraction using N-hexane solvent (28.92%) and

enfleurage method (0.120 %) (Pensuk et al., 2007).

Whereas based on research conducted by Punjee

(2009) namely essential oils obtained from steam

distillation containing 91.74% linalool (Punjee et al.,

2009).

Essential oil or volatile oil can irritate the skin and

damage skin color so it is not used in the form of a

single compound (MOH RI, 1979). To be used safely,

it must be formulated in dosage form with carrier oil

as excipient. In this research, the essential oil was

formulated into stick perfume preparation, where the

essential oil acted as the fragrance. Stick perfumes are

perfume preparations in solid or balm form that is

used by smearing and rubbed on the points of the

Maysarah, H., Sari, I., Faradilla, M. and Elﬁa Rosa, E.

Stick Perfume Formulation from Jeumpa Flowers (Magnolia champaca (L) Baill Ex. Pierre).

DOI: 10.5220/0009956100470053

In Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference of Essential Oils (ICEO 2019), pages 47-53

ISBN: 978-989-758-456-5

body such as behind the ears and behind the wrists

(Groom, 1997). Stick perfume preparation was

chosen due to its’ ease of use and lack of alcohol

content.

2 METHODS

2.1 Page Essential Oils Extraction

using Steam Distillation

About 4.088 kg Bloomed Jeumpa flowers were

picked and their petals were taken. The flower petals

were placed on a filter located inside the steam

distillation device. Distillation was carried out for 5-

6 hours and repeated twice. The distillate obtained

was stored in a separating funnel, collected, added

with MgSO4.7H2O, shaken, and allowed to stand for

1 day. 4.8 mL essential oils obtained was collected

and stored in dark colored bottles.

2.2 Stick Perfume Formulation

Stick perfume preparation was formulated as below:

Table 1: Formulation of jeumpa flower’s preparation.

No Ingredients F0

(%)

1 Cera alba 35,07 40,07 35,07 40,07

2 Liquid Paraffin 46 41 46 41

3 Microcrystalline wax 10 10 10 10

4 BHT 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03

Essential Oil of M.

champaca (L.) Baill.

ex Pierre

8 8

2.3 Stick Perfume Evaluation

2.3.1 Organoleptic Test

Stick perfume preparations were observed for several

parameters such as color, consistency, and aroma

(Hernani, 2012).

2.3.2 Homogeneity Test

0.5 g of stick perfume were taken, applied to the glass

preparation and covered with glass. Then it was

observed by naked eye whether for the presence of

coarse grains (Mappa et al., 2013).

2.3.3 Melting Temperature Test

Melting temperature test was carried out by placing

the preparation in an oven with initial temperature of

50°C for 15 minutes. Then it was observed whether

the preparations melted or not. After the initial

observation, every 15 minutes’ temperature was

raised 1°C until the preparation began to melt.

(Nazlinawaty et al., 2012).

2.3.4 Strength Test

Stick perfume was placed horizontally and about 1.5

cm from the edge of the stick, a load was hung to give

pressure. Every 30 seconds the load was added (10

grams) until the preparation was broken.

(Nazlinawaty et al., 2012).

2.3.5 Preference Test

This preference test was conducted visually on 30

non-standard and untrained panelists. Inclusion

criteria were: men and women, age 20-30 years old,

did not have sensitive or any skin allergy. Each

panelist was required to apply each preparation to the

skin at the back of the hand. Then the panelists were

asked several questions regarding their opinion about

the preparation. (Handayani et al., 2010). Data

obtained from questionnaires that have been filled out

by panelist are tabulated and their favorite value is

determined by finding the average results on each

panel with 95% confidence level.

2.3.6 Sensitivity and Irritation Test

The technique used was an open patch test on the

inner upper arm of 30 panellists. Inclusion criteria as

follows: men and women, aged between 20-30 years,

no history of allergic disease, stating their willingness

to be used as an irritation test panellist. 30 panellists

were non-standard and untrained panellists. Open

patch test was done by applying preparations made at

the

location of the attachment with a certain area (2.5

x 2.5 cm), left open and then observed. This test was

carried out 3 times a day for three consecutive days.

A positive irritation reaction was characterized by

redness, itching, or swelling in the skin of the inner

forearm treated. The presence of red skin was marked

(+), itching (++), swelling (+++), and skin that did not

show any reaction is marked (0) (Nazlinawaty et al.,

2012).

ICEO 2019 - 2nd International Conference of Essential Oil Indonesia

3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

3.1 Jeumpa Flowers’ Identity

Determination

The plant’s identity was determined at Indonesian

Institute of Sciences of the Research Center for

Biology, Bogor. The results of the determination

show that the sample used was Magnolia champaca

(L.) Baill ex Pierre type from the Magnoliaceae tribe.

3.2 Jeumpa Flowers’ Distillation

Jeumpa flower essential oil was obtained by steam

distillation. Distillation of jeumpa flower produced

yellow oil and has a distinctive scent of jeumpa. This

was in accordance with another research that

extracted essential oil from the same species which

resulted yellow colored oil with distinctive aroma of

the flower (Punjee, 2007). 4.8 mL essential oil was

obtained from 4.088 kg of jeumpa flowers (1.174%).

Table 2: Chromatography profile of Jeumpa flowers’

essential oil.

No Component Minimum

(%)

Maximum

(%)

1 Methyl 2-methylbutanoate 0,7 6,3

2 1,8-Cineole 0,3 0,8

3 Trans-β-Ocimene 1,1 3,4

3.3 Stick Perfume Formulation

In this study, the preparation used solid and liquid

base combination, stiffening agent, antioxidant, and

Jeumpa flowers’ essential oil. This research used cera

alba (white wax) and liquid paraffin as a base. Cera

alba concentration used were 35.07% (F1) and

40.07% (F2). Cera alba was chosen because it can

increase the consistency of the preparation and can

dissolve in essential oils. Liquid paraffin was used

with concentrations of 46% (F1) and 41% (F2) and

which was still within safe limits (Rowe et al., 2009).

Liquid paraffin was chosen because it can dissolve in

essential oils. The combination of liquid paraffin and

microcrystalline wax can increase the consistency of

the preparation because of the ability of the

microcrystalline wax to incorporate itself into the

structure of the liquid paraffin to form the structure

and consistency of the preparation (Rowe et al.,

2009).

Figure 1: Stick perfume preparation.

The maximum stiffening agent concentration for

a stick perfume preparation is 10%. This study used a

10% microcrystalline wax as a stiffening agent. Other

ingredients used are antioxidants because the

ingredients used in this formulation are easily

oxidized so that they can produce preparations with

changes in color, consistency and rancidity if stored

for a certain period. BHT (Butylatedhydroxytoluene)

was chosen as an antioxidant in this study because it

can dissolve in essential oils. The concentration of

BHT used in this study was still within safe limits

(0.02 - 0.5%) (Rowe et al., 2009).

Jeumpa flower essential oil was chosen as a

source of aroma for the preparation of stick perfume

in this study because it contains linalool which has a

strong aroma and idol compound which has the

ability to increase the strength of the aroma so that it

can be used as a fixative in the Stick perfume made

(Pensuk et al., 2007). The concentration of essential

oils in various types of perfumes was in the 1-30%

(Valerie, 2016). The Jeumpa flower essential oil

concentration used in this study was 8% which was

still within the safe limit.

3.4 Organoleptic Test

Organoleptic test was carried out to determine the

level of liking and acceptability of the color, taste,

aroma and consistency of the preparation (Lamusu et

al., 2012). Observation of organoleptic test of color,

aroma and consistency of stick perfume preparations

can be seen in Table below:

Stick Perfume Formulation from Jeumpa Flowers (Magnolia champaca (L) Baill Ex. Pierre)

Table 3: Appearance of jeumpa flower stick perfume

preparation.

Formula

Appearance

Color Odor Consistency

F01 White Wax Solid

F02 White Wax Solid

F1 Yellow Jeumpa Solid

F2 Yellow Jeumpa Solid

Note: F01: Stick perfume base (Cera alba 35,07%), F02:

Stick perfume base (Cera alba 40,07%), F1: Jeumpa Stick

perfume (cera alba 35,07%), F2: Jeumpa Stick perfume

(cera alba 40,07%)

3.5 Homogeneity Test

A preparation must be homogeneous and flat so as not

to cause irritation (Naibaho, 2013). Homogeneity test

results (Table 2) showed that all stick perfume

preparations did not show any coarse grains when the

preparation was applied to transparent glass. This

showed that the preparations made have a

homogeneous arrangement (MOH RI, 1979). All

homogeneous preparations indicated that all formula

ingredients were well mixed because the ingredients

used are soluble in essential oils so that there were no

lumps or coarse grains in the preparations.

Table 4: Homogeneity test result.

Formula Homogeneity

F01 Homogeneous

F02 Homogeneous

F1 Homogeneous

F2 Homogeneous

3.6 Melting Temperature

Melting temperature test was carried out to determine

the exact temperature when the preparation started to

melt in the container. The temperature (obtained)

indicated the maximum storage temperature allowed

for the preparations to be safe during the process of

making, packaging, transporting and storing

preparations (Aher et al., 2012).

Table 5: Temperature of melting test result.

Formula Mean Temperature (°C) ± SD

F01 56 ± 0,00

F02 59 ± 0,00

F1 56 ± 0,00

F2 59 ± 0,00

Note: F01: Stick perfume base (Cera alba 35,07%),

F02: Stick perfume base (Cera alba 40,07%), F1:

Jeumpa Stick perfume (cera alba 35,07%), F2:

Jeumpa Stick perfume (cera alba 40,07%)

The melting temperature test results show that the

Stick perfume preparations from F1, F2 and base F01,

F02 have a melting temperature range between 56 -

59 °C. Formula F1 and F01 have lower melting

temperatures than formulas F2 and F02. This was due

to the concentration of cera alba used in F1 and F01

which was less than the formula F2 and F02. Cera

alba has a high melting point of 61 - 65 °C (Rowe et

al., 2009). The higher the concentration of essential

oil in the preparation, the lower the melting point of

the preparation and vice versa due to the low melting

point of Linalool compound which is 25 °C (Rusli et

al., 2018). However, in this study there was no

difference in melting temperature between Stick

perfume without Jeumpa essential oil and Jeumpa

essential oil. This indicated that the addition of

Jeumpa flower essential oil in the preparation did not

affect the melting temperature of the preparation

because the concentration of essential oil used is

small. Based on the melting temperature value shows

that all preparations made have a good melting

temperature and meet the requirements of SNI 16-

4769-1998 i.e. the melting point for lipstick is 50-70

°C. According to Vishwakarma et al. (2011) that a

good lipstick has a melting point above 50 °C, but the

melting temperature for Stick perfume preparations

do not yet have standards and references so that the

melting point standards and reference of the lipstick

are used.

3.7 Strength Test

The strength test was carried out to examine the

strength of the preparation during the process of

packaging, transportation, and storage (Risnawati et

al., 2012).

Table 6: Strength test result.

Formula Mean (g) ± SD

F01 380 ± 10,00

F02 490 ± 10,00

F1 343,33 ± 5,77

F2 380± 10,00

Note; F01: Stick perfume base (Cera alba 35,07%), F02:

Stick perfume base (Cera alba 40,07%), F1: Jeumpa Stick

perfume (cera alba 35,07%), F2: Jeumpa Stick perfume

(cera alba 40,07%)

ICEO 2019 - 2nd International Conference of Essential Oil Indonesia

Stick perfume strength test results showed that F1

and F01 have lower strengths (343.33 g and 380 g)

than F2 and F02 (380 g and 490 g. This result was due

to the different concentration of cera alba and liquid

paraffin used in the formula. Cera alba can increase

the amount of solids in the preparation so that the

formed form will be harder than the addition of liquid

paraffin causing the preparation to break more easily

because it increases the amount of liquid in the

preparation so that the formed form will be softer and

appear creamy and easily broken (Sampebarra et al.,

2016).

Based on the results of the strength test, the Stick

perfume formula (F1, F2) produced in this study has

good strength. This conclusion was drawn by

comparing the weight of the load used in testing the

Stick perfume F1, F2 with the base F01, F02 Base

F01 and F02 has a greater strength range than F1 and

F2, so it can be concluded the addition of essential

oils in the Stick perfume preparation can reduce the

strength preparation.

3.8 Preference Test

Preference test was done to see the panellists’

assessment of the preparation that would mimic the

consumer assessment should this formula be

marketed (Yap et al., 2011). Calculation of the

average preference value interval is performed for

each preference test parameters which include shape,

aroma, stickiness, flatness (National Standardization

Agency, 2006). A comparison of the average

preferred intervals of each hedonic test parameter of

F1 and F2 formulas can be seen in Figure 2.

Based on the average preference score of the Stick

perfume dosage form, it can be concluded that the F1

formula is preferable to F2. This was due to the

consistency of F2 that was tougher than F1. The This

tough consistency of F2 was due to higher

concentration of cera alba and liquid paraffin. Cera

alba can increase the number of solids in the

preparation so the preparation would have tougher

consistency (Sampebarra et al., 2016).

For the aroma parameter, panellists preferred F1

preparation to F2, because F2 has weaker aroma.

Preparation’s viscosity can affect the release of

essential oils. The higher the viscosity, the greater the

base resistance to release essential oils and the

smaller the diffusion rate so that the perceived aroma

will decrease (Yuliani, 2005). As for stickiness, F1

formulas was preferred to F2 which has higher

stickiness. Cera alba makes preparations can be long

attached to the skin, not easily lost by water and

sweat, and provide protection to the skin (Fitriana,

2009).

Figure 2: Preference test result.

The flatness of F1 formula was preferable to F2

because F1 formula. F1 had better spread ability so

the flatness when applied was also better. Scattering

power was influenced by viscosity, because

spreadability was inversely proportional to viscosity.

If the viscosity of a preparation is greater, the spread

of the preparation will be smaller and vice versa

(Mardikasari et al., 2017). Cera alba can increase the

viscosity of the preparation so that the formula F2

with a greater concentration of cera alba had less

dispersal power compared to F1 formula so that F1

formula had better flatness.

3.9 Sensitivity/Irritation Test

The irritation test aimed to determine the safety of the

preparation made for use. Observation of irritation

test from Stick perfume preparation can be seen in

Table 6.

Table 7: Sensitivity/irritation test result.

Formula

Panelists

Redness Itchiness Edema

Repetition

F01

F02

F01: Stick perfume base (Cera alba 35,07%), F02: Stick

perfume base (Cera alba 40,07%), F1: Jeumpa Stick

perfume (cera alba 35,07%), F2: Jeumpa Stick perfume

(cera alba 40,07%)

Based on the results of irritation tests conducted

on 30 panellists by applying Stick perfume

Form Odor

Stickiness

805

885

1836

Stick Perfume Formulation from Jeumpa Flowers (Magnolia champaca (L) Baill Ex. Pierre)

preparations made on the skin of the forearm for three

consecutive days, it showed that all panellists gave

negative results to the observed irritation i.e. the

absence of red, itchy skin itching, or swelling. From

the results of the irritation test it can be concluded that

the preparations made are safe to use (DG POM,

1985) and the addition of essential oils did not cause

irritation. This was due to the concentration of the

essential oil that was used in the preparation.

Concentration of essential oils allowed in various

types of perfumes is 1-30% and in this research, we

used 8% Jeumpa flowers’ essential oil (Valerie, 2016.

Another aspect that might contribute to the negativity

of irritation reaction in this research is homogeneity

of the preparation, where the preparation must be

homogeneous and flat so as not to cause irritation

(Naibaho et al., 2013).

4 CONCLUSION

Based on the research that has been done, Jeumpa

flower essential oil can be formulated into Stick

perfume preparation in which the F1 formula

(contained cera alba 35.07%) is a better formula

based on each test parameter and economic value.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are thankful to the grant provided by Dana Hibah

Laboratorium Universitas Syiah Kuala 2019 and

Pharmacy Department for the support in this research.

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