Gastronomy Tourism in Danau Toba, Samosir Regency
Riadi Darwis, Vyana Lohjiwa, Endah Trihayuningtyas, Tatang Sophian,
and Renalmon Hutahahean
Sekolah Tinggi Pariwisata Bandung, Jln. Dr. Setiabudhi 186, Bandung, Indonesia
Renalmon2014@gmail.com
Keywords: Gastronomy tourism, history of culinary, technology used in culinary, philosophical values, planning of
gastronomy tourism
Abstract: Danau Toba is one of the five Super Priority Destinations. The issue of this study is gastronomic tourism
and Muslim travelers. Gastronomic tourism can be an alternative tourism to natural attractions. When
visiting Danau Toba it is not easy for tourists to find Muslim-friendly restaurants, therefore the issue
becomes one of the concerns of the government due to the facts that most tourists are Muslims from
neighgouring countries, like Malaysia and Singapore. The research used indepth interview techniques to
pentahelix stakeholders namely; Academician, Business, Government, Community, and Media (ABGCM)
regarding the food that represent Danau Toba. The findings indicate that there are seven foodies culture
from Danau Toba that represent its gastronomy tourism. This study has a high originality by the reasons that
when other studies are only identify and inventory the food items, this study include discussions on the
complexity of food that correspond to three gastronomy indicators.
1 INTRODUCTION
Danau Toba is one of the 10 National Priority
Destinations, now it is one of the five Super Priority
Destinations. As evidence of the government's
seriousness in the development of the region, the
Lake Toba Tourism Zone Management Authority
(Badan Otorita Pengelola Kawasan Pariwisata
Danau Toba) was established. The authority function
is to accelerate the development of tourist areas in 7
Regions around Lake Toba Tourism Area.
The issues considered to have a high urgency are
related to gastronomic tourism and Muslim
travelers. Gastronomy is considered as a
determining factor in tourist attraction when tourists
choose a destination. Gastronomic tourism can be an
alternative tourism in addition to natural attractions
related to the sun and sea. At the beginning of the
development of tourism in the Lake Toba region
tourists do not easily find many Muslim-friendly
restaurants so that gastronomic issues related to
Muslim travelers began to grab attention. This issue
then becomes one of the concerns of the Samosir
Regency Tourism Office. So far, one of the policies
made is by listing restaurants that are friendly to
Muslim travelers.
Gastronomy Tourism and Muslim Travelers will
go hand in hand where Muslim travelers are the
current trend of tourism development, and
gastronomy has aspects to address the problems of
Muslim-friendly restaurants. Gastronomy does not
only see food as limited to eating and drinking, but
there is also relationships with various branches of
knowledge and arts.
Therefore, the purpose of this research is to
photograph the culinary existence in every
traditional event in the Samosir Regency as an effort
in planning and developing gastronomic tourism.
Following are the research questions:
1. How is the history of culinary existence in
the Samosir Regency?
2. How is the technology used in the culinary
world in Samosir Regency?
3. What are the philosophical values found in
the culinary world in the Samosir Regency?
4. How is the planning of gastronomy tourism
in Samosir Regency which associated with Muslim
travelers?
Darwis, R., Lohjiwa, V., Trihayuningtyas, E., Sophian, T. and Hutahahean, R.
Gastronomy Tourism in Danau Toba, Samosir Regency.
DOI: 10.5220/0009882701230134
In Proceedings of the 1st NHI Tourism Forum (NTF 2019) - Enhancing Innovation in Gastronomic for Millennials, pages 123-134
ISBN: 978-989-758-495-4
Copyright
c
2021 by SCITEPRESS Science and Technology Publications, Lda. All rights reserved
123
2 LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Food, Foodies, and Foodscapes
2.1.1 Food
The changing from "gastro-turn" was seen in the
academic field during the 1990s (Bessière, 1998;
Fognini, 1995; Gilbert, 1992). Until now,
gastronomy was considered a part of cultural
tourism (Richards, 1996). Mallon (1995) also talks
about the "difficult to identify" relationship between
food and gastronomy. But, closer look at food
showing it as the subject of "total experience" gained
by tourists in eating and drinking activities (Pine and
Gilmore, 1999). The basic form of providing this
experience was later dubbed "first-generation
experiences." Boswijk, Thijssen, and Peelen (2005).
2.1.2
The Rise of Foodie Culture
Foodie Culture is the creation of new tourism
motivations, including restaurants, bars, wine and
food producers (Carmichael, 2005). The growing
link between food and travel is exemplified by
guidebooks (such as the Terroir Guides series
published by Little Book Room) and websites such
as Foodtourist.com, which combines "food, wine,
travel, and opinions / preferences" to guide potential
tourists who have preference for foods, commonly
referred to as foodie hotspots.
2.1.3 “foodiescapes”
This concept is dedicated to capturing and serving
the needs of culinary lovers. In a similar way to that
proposed by Florida (2002) that the key to creative is
creativity, it seems that food does not become a
supplementary but becomes one of the attractions
and motivations of new tourism, not just to enjoy
food but to learn about the food.
2.2 Gastronomy Tourism
Gastronomy as a new branch in the tourism sector
depict the connection that is not limited to eating and
drinking, but there are links with various branches of
knowledge and arts. For this reason, Zahari et al.
(2009) described gastronomy as revealed in the
following figure.
Figure 1: Multidiciplinary of Gastronomy Tourism
Source: Gastronomy and Tourism
Based on several concepts gastronomy tourism:
a. Gastronomy tourism is dynamic;
b. Maximize the opportunities of sustainable
tourism management;
c. Reduce seasonality in destinations through
gastronomy tourism;
d. Encourage territorial decentralization of
tourism, boosting local economies;
e. Promote social inclusion and redistribution of
income;
f. Strengthen coordination between sectors to
address the phenomenon of tourism globally;
g. Promote public-private partnerships at different
levels and across the value chain;
h. Encourage the active participation of local
communities;
i. Promote an authentic experience based on
cultural identity.
2.3 Planning on Gastronomy Tourism
The application of planning requires a
comprehensive analysis, as evidence in planning
gastronomy tourism, the steps are explained in the
following chart:
Figure 2: Planning for Gastronomy Tourim
Source: Gastronomy and Tourism
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2.4 Moslem Travellers
2.4.1 Moslem Traveller Behaviour
Wilson and Liu (2011) addressed their halal
concerns among the consumer where they realised
the challenges in branding the Islamic product and
services. In their research, decision- making
paradigm was proposed as a basis for constructing
salient and engaging brands to the Muslim
customers.
Since the late 20th century, traveling and tourism
have been common activities among Muslims
considering that modernization has diffused into
their societies (Jafari, 2014). However, the first
choice of Muslims is to travel to Muslim countries
because the tourism industry in these countries
satisfies the distinctive requirements of Muslims in
terms of food, daily prayers, and travel patterns
(Bhuiyan, Siwar, Ismail, Islam, & Ehsan, 2011). The
importance of Muslim travel concerns have
encouraged researchers to provide tourism
guidelines on how to comply with Islamic
requirements and how to accommodate the
increasing numbers of Muslim tourists (Henderson,
2010; Ozdemir& Met, 2012; Zulkharnain & Jamal,
2012). Religious beliefs influence Muslims’
preferences to travel to a particular site, with specific
attitudes and behaviours (Schänzel & Yeoman,
2015), and perceptions (Asbollah, Michael, & Lade,
2012). Moreover, Muslims travel for historical,
social, and cultural encounters, obtain knowledge,
communicate with other citizens, spread God’s
word, and enjoy and appreciate God’s creations
(Musa & Thirumoorthi, 2016).
Another group of independents variable are
travel characteristics which comprise of family
status, decision maker in a family, length of stay,
travel arrangement, and type of accommodation
Figure 3 Moslem Travellers Behaviour
Source: Gastronomy and Tourism
2.4.2 Preference Halal Food for Moslem
Traveller
To understand Muslim tourists’ behaviour,
destination marketers need to understand the
demand side, the needs of Muslim travellers in the
context of Halal tourism. The following needs are
Muslim-friendly attributes that cater for Muslim
tourists when travelling abroad. Muslim-friendly
attributes which are applied in some destinations
could be a benchmark for other destinations that
target Muslim tourists and/or to market the
destination as ‘Muslim-friendly destination’.
Availability of Halal food and beverages is vital
for destinations that target Muslim travellers. It is
now common for Muslim tourists to request Halal
food and beverages when they visit non-Muslim
destinations. According to Islamic law, it is not
allowed for Muslim follow- ers to eat pork or pork
by-products, animals that were dead prior to
slaughtering, animals not slaughtered properly or not
slaughtered with pronouncing the name of Allah,
blood and blood by-products, alcohol, carnivorous
animals and birds of prey.
3 METHODS AND MATERIALS
3.1 Research Design
This research was designed using a qualitative
approach. This approach is chosen because it is
considered important to obtain holistic data
regarding the existence of culinary in Gastronomic-
based tourism planning in Samosir Regency.
Meanwhile, the research method is descriptive.
The descriptive method is chosen in order to obtain
description of the existence of culinary in a
traditional event in Samosir Regency, North Sumatra
Province.
3.2 Research Objects
This research is located in Samosir Regency, North
Sumatra Province. The object of this research is the
existence and role of culinary in traditional events
held at the site.
3.3 Research Subjects
The research subjects in this study are the population
and sample based on a qualitative research
perspective. Population or "social situation" consists
Gastronomy Tourism in Danau Toba, Samosir Regency
125
of three elements namely place, actors, and
activities.
a. Place, is a site that is located in the Samosir
Regency, North Sumatra Province.
b. Actors, are traditional and traditional actors in
the Samosir Regency area site, North Sumatra
Province, who play the role as informant and is
considered to know the existence of culinary in
the scope of traditional events.
c. Activities, are all activities in the form of
traditional event involving culinary elements in
it and held in the area of the site located in the
Samosir Regency, North Sumatra Province.
3.4 Data Collecting Techniques
Data collection techniques include: (1) Observation,
by directly observing the existence of culinary and
traditional events in the Samosir Regency area using
tools such as documentation tools, namely cameras
and videos; (2) Documentation, by recording
secondary data from various related institutions
(such as National and Regional Libraries)
concerning various aspects of culinary and a number
of traditional events on the Samosir Regency area,
North Sumatra Province using tools such as
checklist; (3) Interview, by conducting in-depth
interviews with a number of community leaders
(elders or kuncen / chief of community) as site
managers to obtain clarity and suitability of the data
related to culinary existence in a traditional event at
the site of the Samosir Regency, North Sumatra
Province using interview guidelines.
4 DATA AND RESULTS
4.1 Data
Samosir Regency is one of the regencies in North
Sumatra Province on the east coast that has a variety
of natural resources and culture as an object and
tourist attraction that is able to foster the interest of
tourists both domestic and foreign.
Geographically, Samosir Regency is located at
coordinates 2 ° 24 '- 2 ° 45' North Latitude and 98 °
21 '- 99 ° 55' East Longitude, with elevations above
sea level between 904 - 2,157 m². The total area of ±
2,069.05 km², consisting of ± 1,444.25 km²
(69.80%) of land area, namely the entire Samosir
Island surrounded by Lake Toba and some parts of
the land area outside Samosir Island. While the area
of the lake ranges from 624.80 km² (30.20%).
Samosir Regency is an area where most of its
territory is in the middle of Lake Toba waters and
Bukit Barisan mountains. This causes Samosir
Regency to have the potential of Maritime Tourism,
Nature Tourism, Agro Tourism, Art and Culture
Tourism. The development of the Samosir Regency
is focused on efforts to develop it as an ecology-
based tourist destination.
Figure 4: Map of Samosir Regency
All activities arranged above the Regency space,
both on the mainland of Sumatra and on Samosir
Island, must consider the environmental system.
There is no single activity has been organized by
changing existing native landscapes. Samosir
Regency's natural landscape must be maintained so
that the vision of Samosir Regency as a tourist
destination based on natural resources and the
environment can be achieved.
Samosir Regency's tourist attractions consist of
tangible attractions, such as marine tourism
attractions; beaches, lakes, museums and sites,
natural panorama, agrofoetry (sports tourism).
Intangible tourist attraction such as arts and culture.
The wealth of attractions in Samosir Regency can
still be developed, especially in agro tourism,
ecotourism, sports tourism, and spiritual tourism.
Samosir District Tourism Office has made
statistical data on the Number of Tourist Visits from
2014 – 2018.
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Figure 5: Number of Tourist Visit to Samosir Regency
In accordance with the graph tourists visiting
Samosir are divided into foreign tourists and
domestic tourists. The majority of tourists are
domestic tourists, and data shows that there is an
increase in the number of visits each year from both
domestic and foreign tourists. Here is the graph:
Figure 6: Graphic of Tourist Visit to Samosir Regency
From the chart, the Tourism Office has classified
10 leading tourism attractionss in Samosir. The
leading tourism attraction will produce priority and
pioneer tourism attractions that mostly classified
into natural and cultural tourism. The following is
the classification of Tourism Attractions in Samosir
Regency:
Figure 7: Classification of Tourism Attraction Featured,
Priority and Pioneering
Tourism Office of Samosir Regency also has
made a summary in terms of products and markets,
so that long-term policies and plans can be seen
from the data that has been presented. The following
are conclusions from the product and market match
in Samosir Regency:
Figure 8: Product Market Match
4.1.1 History of Batak and Culinary Culture
Toba Batak culture as an agrarian society contains
many elements that come from Hinduism. Hindu
culture and Hindu literature enter and influence the
Toba Batak culture. Alphabet and many
vocabularies such as the names of days and months
in the Toba Batak community are influenced by
Hindu literature. While social and religious
structures as well as government systems are
influenced by Hindu culture. Hindu culture in that
era, and also the intellectual culture of Hinduism,
influenced the Southeast Asian world.
In the case of the state and government, for
example, all groups of community oriented upward
to the king, who is considered a descendant of gods,
who are sacred, who is the culmination of all things
in the state and government and which is the center
of the universe. The conception of the king in
Indonesia was taken by region and rural
communities whose economy was based on a system
of rice farming with irrigation in rice fields.
Gastronomy Tourism in Danau Toba, Samosir Regency
127
Of the many institutions or government agencies
that have been visited, it can be said that none can
provide specific data on the history of culinary
existence in Samosir Regency. The explanation
obtained is mostly pragmatic, namely discussing
directly the existing culinary variety, which is
popular among enthusiasts because the same
information has been spread on various other media
both based on the internet as can be found on the
Google search page or on other social media.
In an effort to dig up information related to the
culinary history of Samosir Regency, the research
team has visited at least more than 10 government
institutions or agencies, including the North Sumatra
Province Bakesbangpol, North Sumatra Provincial
Museum, TB Silalahi Museum, North Sumatra
Regional Library, Samosir District Government,
Regency Culture Office Samosir, Samosir Regency
Tourism Office, Samosir Regency Industry and
Trade Office.
In addition to visiting government agencies or
institutions the research team also tried to dig up
data from community leaders and non-governmental
organizations and indigenous peoples in areas such
as Tuk-tuk, Tomok, Pangururan, Pardosi or Parapat,
Dolog, Samosir.
Most of the sources of information that have
been mapped above apparently have not been able to
specifically provide data and information on
culinary history of Samosir Regency. Most of the
information submitted to the research team is
pragmatic, for example by referring to the 2019
Calendar of Events which turns out to only contain
short or fleeting information and does not contain
depth of discussion including the inclusion of
historical aspects in it. So, it is not qualified as a
source of information to parse the phenomenon and
answer the culinary history research questions of
Samosir Regency.
4.1.2 Technology Used in the Culinary
World
The technology in question is very closely
related to the culinary existence itself. Culinary is
not only a form of food and drink, but also a chain
from the procurement of materials, processing, until
the presentation. For this reason, the authors convey
a number of findings including goods related to
culinary technology in the form of containers and
tools ranging from agriculture, plantations, hunting,
fisheries, to the process of cooking, serving, and
post-drinking (tradition of betel-nut eating).
Based on data findings reported as
archaeological remains in the North Sumatra
Province state museum there are 6,462 pieces which
are grouped into the following 10 groups.
Table 1: Number of Achaeological Remains of the State
Museum of North Sumatera Province
N
o. Group
N
umbe
r
Uni
t
1. Geolo
g
ic 105 Uni
t
2. Biolo
gy
70 Uni
t
3. Etno
rphic 3.055 Uni
t
4. Archeolo
g
ic 349 Uni
t
5. Historical 278 Uni
t
6. Numismatic/
Heraldika
1.962 Unit
7. Philolo
gy
261 Uni
t
8. Ceramics 376 Uni
t
9. Ar
t
4 Uni
t
10. Modern tecnolo
gy
- Uni
t
In the ethnographic group, in particular there is
292 traditional containers of raw materials made of
clay (pottery) 90 pieces, made from plants 165
pieces, made from animal horns 3 pieces, and from
metal 34 pieces. The collection represents ethnics
Batak include Toba, Karo, Simalungun, Angkola /
Mandailing and Pakpak / Dairi) and Malay (North
Sumatra Museum Development Project Section,
2000a: 2-3).
The container data based on the records of the
Department of Regional Development's Regional
Office of the Department of Education, Ministry of
Education and Culture of North Sumatra Province
and the North Sumatra State Museum (1991)
revealed that there were 82 types of traditional North
Sumatran containers in which there were food and
drink utensils and made of various types of materials
such as bamboo, rattan, leaves pandanus, bark,
wood, pottery, brass, silver, pumpkin, ivory, and
horn.
Types of containers made of bamboo include:
gumbar, kole-kole, chitang, parborasan, solunagole,
tambe, kiong, atolu, simba-simba, kandi-abal, abal,
busan kuran, tagan, tingan ingan, paromasan,
perminaken, perminaken and container of medicine.
Various containers made of rattan include:
holanden deli, sago, sindika, rakke, udea, recursors,
jewelery, knuckles, hauling, jokes, bururu, nurung
clay, sikkup, geang-geang, kating, haronduk,
nahazondro, laka, bustle ni sport, and bou-bou.
Variety of containers made of pandan leaves
include: kudai (bohul), pernaken, sensory
chopsticks, mbago balls, helu balls, ucang, hams,
cigarette holder tubes, nafo balls, haronduk,
transplants, lengadung chopsticks, panuhuhan, bako
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balls, and balls, ucang, hams, cigarette holder tubes,
nafo balls, haronduk, transplants, penengen
lengadung, panuhuhan, ballballs, bako balls, and
tungkal.
Containers made of wood bark include: hopuk,
kepuk, kafu-kafu, and towa-towa.
Types of containers made of wood include: sago,
hombing, bangking, mini hombung, bakhole, and
caulking. Other tools made from earthenware
include: pasu, jug, jug, and paromasan. Various
containers made of brass include: vanity, kettles,
bentan, cerana, pimples, and ladder gado. While
traditional containers made of silver metal include:
celepa, dongsi, salapa, culapah riar, and embat.
In addition, there are other containers made of
pumpkin, including: taboos and taboos. Another
container is a container made of ivory and horn. The
people of North Sumatra know him: sahan, jewelery
and guava fence. (Project Section for Building
Guidance on Regional Office of Ministry of
Education and Culture of North Sumatra Province
and State Museum8 of North Sumatra, 1991: 1-5).
4.1.3 The Value of Culinary Philosophy
The philosophical values of an area will not be
separated from the background of religious life or
beliefs held by the community in addressing and
acting on each of their behavior and efforts. Starting
from there, the content of philosophical values in
culinary culture in various traditional ceremonies
that are usually performed can be seen. Usually the
position of food and drinks will have an important
meaning in a ceremony to be interpreted by all the
supporting audiences.
The people of Samosir Regency, as the Batak
ethnic community, also have a unique traditional
ceremony style as illustrated in the following
description. Based on the results of the Regional
Cultural Inventory and Documentation Project study
(1984: 43) in general the traditional ceremonies that
still take place in the Toba Batak community
include: (1) various birth ceremonies, (2) marriage
ceremonies, (3) ceremonies entering new homes, (4)
the ceremony of death, and (5) the ceremony of
chopping the holi (digging bones).
4.2 Result
In accordance with the field findings the level of
food as a tourist attraction in the Lake Toba Region
is the Foodie Culture. Foodie Cultre is equated to the
creation of new tourism motivations, including
restaurants, bars, wine, and food producers
(Carmichael, 2005). The link that grows between
food and travel.
Actualization in the field is that there are some
foods that have become icons in the Lake Toba
Tourism Area, among others: Dali Ni Horbo,
Lappet, Nani Arsik and Naniura.
Figure 9 The Level of Food as a Tourist Attraction in The
Lake Toba Region
The assessment regarding the importance of
Gastronomy Tourism in Lake Toba Tourism Area
can be seen from the results of interviews with
stakeholders, namely:
Academician: USU Lecturers
Busines: Business Actors
Government : Tourism Office, Cooperative
Office, MSME Office, Youth and Sport Office
Community : Community Figures
Seeing tourists' preferences, many of tourists
visited Lake Toba with natural tourism motivation.
It is marked by 65,138 tourists visit to Pasir Putih
Parbaba, followed by Menara Pandang of 48,809
tourists, and to Efrata Water Falls of 34,156 tourists.
The three biggest destinations are still natural
tourism, whereas for cultural tourism, one of them is
culinary tourism has not become a mainstay in
Samosir Regency.So that when it is applied to the
importance of gastronomy tourim chart it has not yet
appeared, only 0.60 of the total value of 0.99 (total
experience).
But seeing the results of interviews from several
stakeholders revealed from the program and the
policies made, it is sure that later gastronomy will
become one of the trends in Lake Toba area and will
make the total tourist experience increase.
4.2.1 History of Culinary Existence in
Samosir Regency
According to Prof. Bungaran Antonius
Simanjuntak, who quoted Islamic sociologist Ibnu
Khaldun in his social theory, that the geographical
location, type of food, and daily work patterns also
influence people's behavior. Geographically, the
Batak Land in Tapanuli, North Sumatra, is located in
a mountainous region, the climate is cool, and the
distance between residents' homes is far apart. That
is why the tradition of speaking of the Batak
Gastronomy Tourism in Danau Toba, Samosir Regency
129
community is loudly like shouting. If you don't
scream, people won't hear. (silaban.net)
In addition, some Bataks are accustomed to
drinking wine, a type of liquor that heats the body.
So, their nature was also impressed hard. In the
work, they are accustomed to working thoroughly
and if necessary to overtime. "This is different from
Javanese people whose food is tofu and tempeh.
Soybean alone was treated for months. So, their
nature is smooth. The way Javanese works is called
‘alon-alon waton kelakon’ or slowly but surely, but
they are diligent and has a target," said Mr.
Bungaran, adding, Javanese perseverance is clearly
different from Batak hard work.
In the Batak tradition, there are three words that
existentially support each other: hamoraon (wealth),
hagabeon (ancestry), and hasangapon (honor). The
method of achievement is regulated in the social
structure of the dalihan na tolu or stove with three
stones, the symbol of the social structure of the
Batak community: hula-hula (wife-giving group),
boru (wife-receiving group), and dongan sabutuha
(one clan group). The relations of these elements
determine the social life of many Batak people.
(silaban.net)
Culinary treasures in Samosir Regency cannot be
separated from Batak cuisine in general. Batak
cuisine is a type of cuisine that is influenced by the
arts and cooking traditions of the Batak tribe, who
inhabit the North Sumatra region, Indonesia. Batak
cuisine is one type of Nusantara cuisine. One of the
characteristics of Batak cuisine is its fondness of
using Andaliman (Zanthoxylum acanthopodium) as
the main spice. That's why Andaliman is sometimes
dubbed the "Batak pepper".
Batak culinary arts centers are found in cities in
the Batak highlands, for example in the Tanah Karo
region of Kabanjahe and Berastagi. While some
places around Lake Toba offer a lot of freshwater
fish dishes such as arsik style of golden fish
(arsik ikan mas).
In contrast to the closest neighboring
communities in the region such as Aceh and
Minangkabau which are influenced by Islamic
traditions, namely the existence of halal food rules,
the Batak people who are mostly Christians have
many of the best foods from this area made from
pork, blood, and other unusual ingredients.
(id.wikipedia.org)
If Sumatran cuisine in other regions shows a lot
of influence on foreign cooking, such as the
Minangkabau, Malay, and Acehnese dishes,
featuring curry dishes that are heavily influenced by
Indian and Arabic cooking arts, then Batak cuisine
shows more the original cooking traditions of
Austronesian peoples. For example, cooking pork
with its blood, can also be found in the Filipino
cuisine tradition, dinuguan. Meanwhile, since many
of the Nusantara's ethnic groups converted to Islam,
the art of cooking that is not halal, such as using
pork, dogs, or blood, has been abandoned and
disappeared, and now only survives in non-Muslim
cultural areas such as in the Batak Land.
Regional differences in the influence of the
Batak and Aceh culinary areas are characterized by
the use of spices; choose curry or andaliman.
Acehnese on the coast use curry leaves (Murraya
koenigii) as their main spices, while Bataks tend to
like andaliman. The aroma of andaliman began to be
felt starting from the Gayo plateau in Central Aceh
and continuing Southeast to Berastagi in Tanah
Karo.
There are many typical Batak dishes and use a
variety of herbs or unique recipes. The most widely
used spice in Batak cuisine is andaliman, and for all
types of arsik Batak onions are used. Sambal Tuktuk
for example uses a mixture of andaliman.
According to the Indonesian Minister of
Tourism, Arif Yahya, "Culinary is a part of cultural
work that is derived from a long tradition of
community life. Culinary is also a valuable treasure
for the Indonesian people that can bring prosperity
to the community through the Cultural Industry."
(travel.detik.com)
In Batak communities the naming of typical
foods is largely based on the cooking process. Na
Niarsik means to be ‘arsik’ or dried. In other words,
Dekke Na Niarsik, a fish that is cooked continuously
until the broth is dry, the marinade absorbs into the
carp. If the cooking process is correct, Na Niarsik
can last two days without stale. This was said by
Vita Datau Messakh, Chair of the Indonesian
Gastronomy Academy. Besides Na Niarsik, other
Batak specialties named based on the cooking
process include Na Tinombur, Na Niura, and Na
Nigota. (travel.detik.com)
Cultural history has shown that Na Niarsik is a
food that is part of the Batak adat which is closely
related to the life stories of the Batak people
themselves from birth, marriage to death. Na Niarsik
is an important dish in Batak traditional ceremonies
related to the life cycle. In addition, in terms of the
presentation of Na Niarsik, the odd number has its
own meaning in the traditional event of the delivery
of arsik fish where the number of fish has meaning.
"One is intended for newly married couples.
Three are for newlyweds. Five are intended for new
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couples who have grandchildren. Seven are for
Batak leaders." (Vita Datau in travel.detik.com)
Besides, in the preparation process Na Niarsik
has certain rules that need to be obeyed. Only hula-
hula or relatives on the part of the wife can give, be
it the biological parents, brothers of the wife, or the
clan community of the wife. Include the selection of
ingredients, it is only the best goldfish or Dekke is
chosen, the red carp.
There are 16 kinds of seasonings in this culinary
dish. From andaliman, kecombrang flowers and
batak onions make Na Nairsik special. The way to
process it like fish dishes in general. After cleaning
and washing, the fresh fish smeared with orange to
remove the fishy smell. After cleaning the belly of
the fish, fill with Chives or Batak Onions and long
beans. The cooking process is by combining the fish
with all the spices until it cooks and becomes a little
dry. Therefore, the term is dry-cooked fish.
Although the appearance of Arsik looks like
yellow-seasoning cooked fish in in general, but in
term of texture and taste is different. "There is the
influence of andaliman, kecombrang, and batak
onion which gives a distinctive taste and is only
found in Batak land. The story behind Na Niarsik is
a culinary cultural wealth that can be said to be the
richness of Indonesian gastronomy.
4.2.2 The Technology Used in the Culinary
World in the Samosir Regency
Based on the collected data, the technology related
to packaging, hosting, culinary, hunting poetry,
fishing, and agriculture is not less than 266 tools for
five sub-tribes in North Sumatra. While the number
of technologies that are closely related to and
including typical Samosir Regency reaches 49 units
or 5.4%. The forty-nine of these basic materials for
making these technological tools that are directly
related to culinary are metal 26.5%, bamboo
22.45%, wood 16.3%, others 16.3%, rattan 10.2%,
leaves pandanus 3.4%, palm fiber 2.04%, and
coconut shell 2.04%. In general, this is the original
natural-based technology that is there.
In addition to a number of technological tools
from the eight types of materials, there are also
various containers or tools and technology made
from pottery or ceramics which, according to
previous researchers, are more commonly found in
coastal areas. Gradually the equipment entered the
area. The tools that can be recognized include: jars,
jars (water containers for washing feet), steaming,
jugs, calling (thread dyeing), guri-guri (oil or
medicine containers), earthen pots (cooking fish and
curry ), earthen pots (boil water, sweet potatoes,
etc.), parsharga (salt container), plates, vases,
parasols (incense burns).
In the present condition, based on observations in
a number of traditional villages and traditional
markets, equipment related to the culinary world has
experienced many major changes both in terms of
materials, form, and function. Various electronic
equipment has influenced the lifestyle of the
Samosir people including magic jar (rice cooker),
refrigerator, mixer, juicer, huler, as well as various
other technological equipment made from various
synthetic materials such as: plastic, melamine, latex,
silicon, etc.
4.2.3 Gastronomy Tourism Planning in
Samosir Regency Associated with
Muslim traveler
In accordance with the results of the analysis of
Gastronomy from the aspects of history, philosophy,
and technology use, the analysis used to make
Gastronomy planning is divided into several stages,
namely recognizing food related to three aspects of
gastronomy, so the model is adopted from the
Gastronomy case study in Indonesia. We give a
name for food that can be used as a Gastronomy
Tourism attraction, which is 7 foodies cultures from
Samosir, including:
Andaliman
Lappet
Dali Ni Horbo
Ayam Napinadar
Itak Gorgon
Naniura
Ikan Arsik
5 DISCUSSION
These seven foods were selected from the results of
previous analyzes by looking at three aspects of
gastronomy. With the identification of Food as
culture, the next stage is how to plan from various
stakeholders based on the responses that have been
given, the following is an analysis of Gastronomy
Tourism planning in Samosir Regency:
The culinary treasures in Samosir Regency are
inseparable from the Batak cuisine in general. Batak
cuisine is a type of cuisine that is influenced by the
arts and cooking traditions of the Batak tribe, who
inhabit the North Sumatra region, Indonesia. Batak
cuisine is one type of Nusantara cuisine. One of the
Gastronomy Tourism in Danau Toba, Samosir Regency
131
characteristics of Batak cuisine is its fondness of
using Andaliman (Zanthoxylum acanthopodium) as
the main spice. That's why Andaliman is sometimes
dubbed the "Batak pepper". In Batak communities
the naming of typical foods is largely based on the
cooking process. Na Niarsik means to be marched or
dried.
In other words, Dekke Na Niarsik, a fish that is
cooked continuously until the broth is dry, the
marinade absorbs into the carp. If the cooking
process is correct, Na Niarsik can last two days
without stale. This was said by Vita Datau Messakh,
Chair of the Indonesian Gastronomy Academy.
Besides Na Niarsik, other Batak specialties named
based on the cooking process include Na Tinombur,
Na Niura, and Na Nigota.
Cultural history shows that Na Niarsik is a food
that is part of the Batak customs which are closely
related to the life stories of the Batak people
themselves from birth, marriage to death. Na Niarsik
is an important dish in Batak traditional ceremonies
related to the life cycle. In addition, in terms of the
presentation of Na Niarsik, the odd number has its
own meaning in the traditional event of the delivery
of arsic fish where the number of fish has meaning.
The technology used in the culinary world in the
Samosir Regency area Based on the data we have
collected, the technology related to packaging,
hosting, culinary, hunting poetry, fishing, and
agriculture is not less than 266 tools for five sub-
tribes in North Sumatra. While the number of
technologies that are closely related to and including
typical Samosir Regency reaches 49 units or 5.4%.
The forty-nine of these basic materials for making
these technological tools that are directly related to
culinary are metal 26.5%, bamboo 22.45%, wood
16.3%, others 16.3%, rattan 10.2%, leaves pandanus
3.4%, palm fiber 2.04%, and coconut shell 2.04%. In
general, this is the original natural-based technology
that is there.
Philosophical values contained in the culinary
world in the Samosir Regency area As stated in the
data section related to the value of culinary
philosophy in the Samosir Regency community as a
Batak ethnic community, in general, they still carry
out the following traditional ceremonies: (1) various
birth ceremonies, ( 2) marriage ceremonies, (3)
ceremonies entering a new home, (4) death
ceremonies, and (5) ceremonial chopping holi
(digging bones).
Gastronomy tourism planning in Samosir
Regency which is associated with Muslim traveler
Based on the results of the analysis above, it can be
concluded that the current actual condition of
Samosir Regency already has 7 Foodies Culture
from Samosir, but when viewed from a combination
of several stakeholders now seen from the demand
side not many see food as one of the tourist
attractions, although in terms of providers can
already share foods that contain historical value,
philosophy, and are unique in technology.
So that Gastronomy Tourism planning in
Samosir Regency is not suitable at this time, but can
be used for future planning by looking at the issues
of concern now and in the future, namely Muslim
Travelers. Suggestions of this research include: (1)
Further research is needed to examine 11 aspects of
gastronomy others, so that Gastronomy planning in
Samosir Regency will be analyzed objectively and
holistically; (2) By conducting further research, and
holistically analyzed this research can be used as a
benchmarking for other studies that will take
Gastronomy as a research topic.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thank you to related agencies and customary
stakeholders in Samosir Regency, North Sumatra
Province; and Scitepress who received our article
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