Formulation of Rose Myrtle Fruit (Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa (Aiton)

Hassk) Extract as a Natural Colors in Lipgloss

Christica Ilsanna Surbakti, Yashinta Putri Darmadi, Bahtera B. D., Bunga Rimta Barus

Fakultas Farmasi Institut Kesehatan Deli husada Delitua

Keywords: Rose Myrtle Fruit, Ethanol Extract of Rose Myrtle Fruit, Lip Gloss

Abstract: Rose Myrtle is a wild plant that grows in tropical areas. Rose Myrtle is included in the Myrtaceae tribe

which has been used as an herbal medicine to treat dysentery and increase platelets. One of the plants that

can be made in lip color is Rose Myrtle fruit, because it contains anthocyanin as a natural coloring agent.

From the observations of the shape, color and odor on the 1st day to the 30th day the preparation did not

change. Lipgloss with 10% Rose Myrtle fruit extract concentration is red, 12% concentration is blood red,

while the 14% concentration gives a deep redcolor.

1 INTRODUCTION

Lips are the second attraction after the eyes. If the

condition of the lips is not healthy or even

experiencing health problems, it will reduce the

overall attractiveness of the face. In order to obtain

healthy and attractive lips, then treatment can be

done both from within and outside, such as the tips

below: Drink water a day at least 8 glasses so as to

prevent dehydration that causes dry lips, meet the

intake of vitamin B, vitamin C, and substances iron,

so as to avoid the pain of chapped lips. Vitamin C

contained in these foods is useful as an antioxidant

that can neutralize free radicals produced by the

processes produced by metabolic processes in the

body, so that tissue damage is reduced (Chomaria,

2018).

Lip gloss is a product or preparation that can

give a glossy and shiny effect on the lips; it helps to

increase the volume of lips, sometimes it also gives

a slight color effect, feels soft and does not dry on

the lips. Lip gloss also works to help increase the

volume of lips and make the lips look denser when

used with lipstick. Lately, lip gloss preparations are

quite popular with the public and when use lip gloss,

it must be easily applied and gives a shiny

impression (Supriyatna, 2017).

Rose Myrtle is a type of wild plant with woody

trees growing wildly in open fields that can reach up

4 meters in height. The leaves are hard, 5 - 7 cm

long and 2 - 3.5 cm wide, the surface is shiny, the

lower surface is smooth white or yellowish haired,

the flowers are hidden or in 2 or 3 groups, a single

flower or in a "dichasium" flowering consists of 3

flowers, flowering stems up 1 cm long, 0.5-2.5 cm

flower stalks, the fruit is purplish red with petals

with non-deciduous petals, 10-15 mm long and it

can be eaten (Mohamad , 2014).

The making of lip gloss preparations in this study

was carried out with variations in the concentration

of ethanol extract of Rose Myrtle fruits, namely

10%, 12% and 14% so that it produces a difference

on color intensity. The next process is to do some

evaluation tests on lip gloss preparations to ensure

the physical quality of lip gloss preparations, namely

color dispersion test (homogeneity), stability test,

pH test preparation, polishing test, irritation test and

hedonic test.

The examination results on the color dispersion

test (homogeneity) showed that lip gloss

preparations from Rose Myrtle fruit extract were

evenly dispersed and free of particles that were still

clumping when it is tested by using glass object.

Variation in the concentration of Rose Myrtle fruit

extract used to produce color differences in lip gloss

preparations. Lip gloss with a concentration of 10%

Rose Myrtle fruit extract is red; a concentration of

12% is blood red while a concentration of 14% is

scarlet. The lip gloss odor is a distinctive aroma.

Lip gloss stability test results showed that all

preparations made remained stable when it is stored

at room temperature for 30 days. The parameters

observed in this physical stability test include

changes in the shape, color and odor of the

Surbakti, C., Darmadi, Y., Putra, B. and Barus, B.

Formulation of Rose Myrtle Fruit (Rhodomyrtustomentosa (Aiton) Hassk) Extract as a Natural Colors in Lipgloss.

DOI: 10.5220/0009464300820088

In Proceedings of the International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology (ICHIMAT 2019), pages 82-88

ISBN: 978-989-758-460-2

preparation. From the form observations results on

to 30

day the preparation did not change on

shape. From the color observations results on the 1

to 30

day the color on the lip gloss preparations

remained stable and there were no changes in color

due to the addition of concentration of Rose Myrtle

fruit extract dye, so the resulting of lip gloss colors

became more concentrated.

All the necessary ingredients are weighed, BHT

is dissolved with a little castor oil, stir them until

they are homogeneous (period I), methylparaben is

dissolved into Rose Myrtle fruit extract and they are

mixed into (period I), then stir them until they are

homogeneous (period II), lanolin with beeswax are

melted down on a water bath (period III), period III

is mixed with the mixture into period II, stir them

until they are homogeneous (period IV), paraffin

liquid is mixed in period IV then stirred them until

they are homogeneous (period V).

Traditionally, Rose Myrtle leaves can be used to

stop bleeding, relieve pain such as chest pain, reduce

back pain and leaf collisions can be used to

compress the forehead to reduce body temperature

during fever. In Malaysia, leaf stew is taken to treat

diarrhea and as a medicine for stomach ache, while

in Indonesia it is used to heal wounds (Putri, 2015).

In the West Sumatra, Rhodomyrtustomentosa

(Aiton) Hassk (Myrtaceae) known as karamuntiang,

it has traditionally been that used as an anthelmintic

in humans, medicine for wounds, scabies,

headaches, abdominal pain and diarrhea, retain

bleeding and prevent infection after childbirth. The

fruit is used as an antidote and diarrhea, and it can

be made of jam, which is in India it is called

Thaonthi.

The wood contains dyes that can discolor teeth,

while the Rose Myrtle root extract is used for the

treatment of heart disease, diarrhea, reducing pain

after childbirth and for the scar treatment (Nasution,

2014). In Rose Myrtle plants, after it is done

photochemical testing, there are chemical

compounds such as flavonoids and anthocyanins.

Anthocyanins are classified as pigments called

flavonoids which are generally soluble in water.

Anthocyanin pigment colors are red, blue, and

purple. Appearance of reddish purple Rose Myrtle

fruit shows that there is coloring naturally which is

contained in it (Jumiati, et al 2017).

According to Rose Myrtle fruit has a large

antioxidant activity. Antiokidants are defined as

inhibitors that work to inhibit oxidation by reacting

with reactive free radicals to from non free radical

compounds that are not reactive and relatively

stable. This plant stems and twigs have large

antioxidant activity, and weak toxicity. Explained

that ethanol extract of hard mounting leaves has

anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory activity. This

plant (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa) contain flavonoids,

saponins, tannins, and triterpenoids. Flavonoid

content is a powerful antioxidant that can reduce

lipid peroxidation, increase epithelialization speed,

and is anti micobial.

In a study conducted by (Jumiati, et al. 2017) by

using Rose Myrtle fruit as a natural coloring agent in

food, convincing researchers that Rose Myrtle fruit

can also be used as a natural coloring agent in

cosmetic preparations, namely lip gloss.

Judging from the content of flavonoids that have

Rose Myrtle fruit, this fruit has the potential to be

used as natural dyes in cosmetic preparations. Dyes

(pigments) are dyes naturally which is found in

plants and animals. The usage of natural dyes for

cosmetic preparations does not cause health losses,

as well as synthetic dyes that are increasingly used.

Among synthetic dyes that are very dangerous for

health so that their usage is prohibited are Rhodamin

B. Red dyes which are widely found in nature are

grouped into two groups namely carotenoids and

anthocyanins. Anthocyanins are classified as a

pigment that is called flavonoids which are generally

soluble in water. Anthocyanin pigments which are

red, blue, violet; they are usually found in flowers,

fruits and vegetables. The appearance of Rose

Myrtle fruit which is purplish red indicates that there

is a natural coloring contained therein. One of the

flavonoid compounds contained in Rose Myrtle fruit

is anthocyanin. Anthocyanins are known to function

as natural dyes.

In this research, Rose Myrtle fruit is used as a

natural color because of the existence of literature or

references from journals (Jumiati, et al. 2017) which

states that we can utilize the natural wealth that is

around us as additional material. Natural products

that we can use include those from wild plants. The

role of wild plants (not cultivated) is very diverse

ranging start from its use as medicine, cosmetics,

agriculture, up to the food industry. One of the wild

plants that have potential as natural dyes is Rose

Myrtle fruit (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa (Aiton) Hassk)

(Jumiati, et al. 2017).

2 MANUSCRIPT PREPARATION

2.1 Place and Time

This research is an experimental type. Experiments

are experimental activities that is aimed at knowing

Formulation of Rose Myrtle Fruit (Rhodomyrtustomentosa (Aiton) Hassk) Extract as a Natural Colors in Lipgloss

all the symptoms or effects that arise, as a result of

the existence of certain treatments.

2.2 Research Tools

The study tools were stirring rods, 1000 mL glass

beakers, 250 mL, 100 mL (Pyrex), brown bottles,

glass sample bottles, vaporizer cups, 250 mL

Erlenmeyer (Pyrex), freeze dryers, 100 mL

measuring cups, 10 mL (Pyrex), gauze, parchment

paper, filter paper, ash-free filter paper, porcelain

crushers, mortar and stamper, oven, water bath, tube

clamp, filter, dropper, porcelain, Rotary Evaporator,

horn spoon, spatula, test tubes, furnaces, digital

scales, and containers.

2.3 Research Material

The materials used in this study were Aquadest,

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), beeswax, Rose

Myrtle fruit extract, 96% ethanol, lanolin, castor oil,

methylparaben, and paraffin liquid.

2.4 Sampling Method

The sample used is fresh Rose Myrtle fruit that has

been ripe that grows in the area of Senggarang, Air

Raja Village, Tanjung Pinang Timur Sub-district,

Tanjung Pinang, Riau Islands. The sample collection

is done purposively without comparing with other

regions..

2.5 Sample Preparation

Samples of Rose Myrtle (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa

(Aiton) Hassk) were taken from the area of

Senggarang, Air Raja Village, Tanjung Pinang

Timur Sub-district, Tanjung Pinang, Riau Islands.

Rose Myrtle samples are taken that are ripe or

purplish red, then cleaned and washed with running

water. After it, the sample is dried without direct

sunlight and then it is crushed by using a blender,

the sample is ready for extraction.

2.6 Phytochemical Testing

Phytochemical tests were carried out on dry

samples, namely the flavanoid test and the

anthocyanin test.

2.7 Extraction Preparation

As much as 1 kg of simplicia powder is put into a

dark glass container, 96% ethanol is added until they

are submerged and then covered and left for 5 days

and protected them from light while stirring

frequently, then filtered them with gauze, the filtrate

is accommodated (first filtrate). Then the pulp is

macerated again with 96% ethanol for 2 days and

then filtered them by using gauze. The results

obtained are mixed with the first filtrate and put in a

dark bottle, then evaporated with the assistance of a

Rotary Evaporator at ± 50

C, then freeze drying by

using a freeze dryer at -40

C (Risnawati, 2012),

(Pracima, 2015).

Figure 1: Scheme of Acess Method

2.8 Preparation of Lip Supplies

All the necessary ingredients are weighed, BHT is

dissolved with a little castor oil, stir them until they

are homogeneous (period I), methylparaben is

dissolved into Rose Myrtle fruit extract and they are

mixed into (period I), then stir them until they are

homogeneous (period II), lanolin with beeswax are

melted down on a water bath (period III), period III

is mixed with the mixture into period II, stir them

until they are homogeneous (period IV), paraffin

liquid is mixed in period IV then stirred them until

they are homogeneous (period V), a castor oil is

added in period V and then they are homogenized

(Widayanti, 2014) .Maceration results from 4 kg of

wet Rose Myrtle fruit is obtained as much as 1 kg of

dried Rose Myrtle fruit, and then after the

evaporation, it is produced 96.58 grams of thick

extract of Rose Myrtle fruit.

ICHIMAT 2019 - International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology

Table 1: Scheme of Acess Method

No Bahan F1 F2 F3 F4 Function

Rose

Myrtela

Fruit

Extract

10 12 14

Coloring

Agent

2 Beewax 3 3 3 Base

Paraffil

Liquid

10 10 10 Emollient

4 Lanolin 10 10 10 Emollient

5 BHT 0,1 0,1 0,1

Anti

Oxidant

Methyl

Paraben

0,1 0,1 0,1 Preservative

Castor

Oil

100 100 100 Solvent

2.9 The Evaluation Test on Lip Gloss

preparations

Evaluation tests on lip gloss preparations include

color dispersion tes (Homogeneity) observation of

changes in shape, color and odor of lip gloss

preparations which is carried out on each

preparations which is camed out on each preparation

during storage at room temperature on 1st, 7th, 15th

day and then every 3th until 30th day it is done pH

test on the preparation y using natura dyes of rose

myrtle fruit extracts to find out whether lip gloss that

is made can cause irritation to the skin or not polish

test which is performed on the preparation of each

formulasi by polishing it five times and observing

the color and the preference test is carried out to

dtermine the preferences levels of the panelists on

the preparations made (Karmila, 2013).

3 RESEARCH RESULTS

3.1 Rose Myrtle Fruit Extraction

Results

Maceration results from 4 kg of wet Rose Myrtle

fruit is obtained as much as 1 kg of dried Rose

Myrtle fruit, and then after the evaporation, it is

produced 96.58 grams of thick extract of Rose

Myrtle fruit.

3.2 Phtochemical Screnning Results

The results of Screening Result test on lip gloss

preparations showed that lip gloss preparations the

plant name is Rose Myrtle Fruit has Flavonoid and

Antosyanin positive.

Table 2: Screnning of Phytochemical

The Plant Name Under

Study

Flavonoid Antocyanin

Rose Myrtle Fruit

(Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa

(Aiton) Hassk

+ +

3.3 Physical Examination Results of

Lip Gloss Preparation

Lip gloss with a concentration of 10% are red, lip

gloss with a concentration of 12% are blood red

while lip gloss with a concentration of 14% are

scarlet with a distinctive aroma.

3.4 Color Dispersion Test Results

(Homogenity)

The results of pH test on lip gloss preparations

showed that lip gloss preparations with a

concentration of 10% had a pH of 6.3 lip gloss

preparations with a concentration of 12% had a pH

of 6.4 while lip gloss preparations with a

concentration of 14% had a pH of 6.2.

Table 3: Lipgloss dosage stabilization test results.

1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3

1 B B B M MD MT BK BK BK

7 B B B M MD MT BK BK BK

15 B B B M MD MT BK BK BK

20 B B B M MD MT BK BK BK

25 B B B M MD MT BK BK BK

30 B B B M MD MT BK BK BK

Note:

B: Shape (Good);

BK : Baukhan

3.5 Irritation Text Result

The results of Irritation Text Result on lip gloss

preparation and all of panelis is not feel Irritattion on

all Concentration, showed th at lip gloss

preparations with a concentration of 10% had a pH

of 6.3 lip gloss preparations with a concentration of

12% had a pH of 6.4 while lip gloss preparations

with a concentration of 14% had a pH of 6.2.

Formulation of Rose Myrtle Fruit (Rhodomyrtustomentosa (Aiton) Hassk) Extract as a Natural Colors in Lipgloss

Table 4: Irritation Text Results

Reaction

Panelists

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Erythema 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Papules 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Vesicles 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Edema 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Note :

1. No reaction 0

2. Erythema +

3. Erythema and Papules ++

4. vesicles +++

4. Edema and Vesicles ++++

3.5 Polish Test Result

Lip gloss with a concentration of 10% are red, lip

gloss with a concentration of 12% are blood red

while lip gloss with a concentration of 14% are

scarlet with a distinctive aroma.

Table 5: Polish Test Results

Lip gloss

preparation 10%

The color is less clear but it is

homogeneous

Lip gloss

preparation 12%

The color is clear and

homogenous

Lip gloss

preparation 14%

The color is clear and

homogenous

3.6 Hedonic Test

Lipgloss with a hedonic test The results of Hedonic

Text Result on lip gloss preparation and all of

panelis is not feel Irritattion on all Concentration,

showed that lip gloss preparations with a

concentration of 10% had a pH of 6.3 lip gloss

preparation concentration in 14% is very good.

Table 6: Hedonic Test Result

1 22 1 2 3

2 24 1 2 3

3 24 1 2 3

4 23 2 2 2

5 22 2 2 2

6 21 2 2 2

7 21 2 2 2

8 21 2 3 3

9 22 1 3 3

10 22 1 3 3

11 23 3 3 3

12 23 1 3 3

13 23 1 1 3

14 22 1 1 3

15 22 1 1 3

4 DISCUSSIONS

From the results of phytochemical screening in the

results table, it is known that Rose Myrtle fruit

(Rhodomyrtus tomentosa (Aiton) Hassk) positively

contains flavonoids and anthocyanins.

Phytochemical results show that Rose Myrtle fruits

contain flavonoids which are characterized by the

formation of red pigment on the amyl alcohol layer.

And it also contains anthocyanin which is marked by

the occurrence of red color that will not fade on the

addition of HCL 2N. Rose Myrtle fruit contains

anthocyanin which is included flavonoids.

The study tools were stirring rods, 1000 mL

glass beakers, 250 mL, 100 mL (Pyrex), brown

bottles, glass sample bottles, vaporizer cups, 250 mL

Erlenmeyer (Pyrex), freeze dryers, 100 mL

measuring cups, 10 mL (Pyrex), gauze, parchment

paper, filter paper, ash-free filter paper, porcelain

crushers, mortar and stamper, oven, water bath, tube

clamp, filter, dropper, porcelain, Rotary Evaporator,

horn spoon, spatula, test tubes, furnaces, digital

scales, and containers.

The making of lip gloss preparations in this study

was carried out with variations in the concentration

of ethanol extract of Rose Myrtle fruits, namely

10%, 12% and 14% so that it produces a difference

on color intensity. The next process is to do some

evaluation tests on lip gloss preparations to ensure

the physical quality of lip gloss preparations, namely

color dispersion test (homogeneity), stability test,

pH test preparation, polishing test, irritation test and

hedonic test.

According to Rose Myrtle fruit has a large

antioxidant activity. Antiokidants are defined as

inhibitors that work to inhibit oxidation by reacting

ICHIMAT 2019 - International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology

with reactive free radicals to from non free radical

compounds that are not reactive and relatively

stable. This plant stems and twigs have large

antioxidant activity, and weak toxicity. Explained

that ethanol extract of hard mounting leaves has

anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory activity. This

plant (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa) contain flavonoids,

saponins, tannins, and triterpenoids. Flavonoid

content is a powerful antioxidant that can reduce

lipid peroxidation, increase epithelialization speed,

and is anti micobial.

In a study conducted by (Jumiati, et al. 2017) by

using Rose Myrtle fruit as a natural coloring agent in

food, convincing researchers that Rose Myrtle fruit

can also be used as a natural coloring agent in

cosmetic preparations, namely lip gloss. This

research is to know the percentage of yield and to

know the quaity metabolite identification.

The making of lip gloss preparations in this study

was carried out with variations in the concentration

of ethanol extract of Rose Myrtle fruits, namely

10%, 12% and 14% so that it produces a difference

on color intensity. The next process is to do some

evaluation tests on lip gloss preparations to ensure

the physical quality of lip gloss preparations, namely

color dispersion test (homogeneity), stability test,

pH test preparation, polishing test, irritation test and

hedonic test.

The Use of traditional mediciine os the main

choice of society in addtion to the inability of people

to buy modern medicines, raw materials easily

obtained and the price is economical. For examples

is often used as an alternative tratment is known to

contain chemical compound that are able to treat and

is relatively safe is used properly and without abuse

if the information effects and i relatively is quite

clear. Therefore researchers are intersted quality and

to achieve it need to be standaradized.

The examination results on the color dispersion

test (homogeneity) showed that lip gloss

preparations from Rose Myrtle fruit extract were

evenly dispersed and free of particles that were still

clumping when it is tested by using glass object.

Variation in the concentration of Rose Myrtle fruit

extract used to produce color differences in lip gloss

preparations. Lip gloss with a concentration of 10%

Rose Myrtle fruit extract is red; a concentration of

12% is blood red while a concentration of 14% is

scarlet. The lip gloss odor is a distinctive aroma.

Lip gloss stability test results showed that all

preparations made remained stable when it is stored

at room temperature for 30 days. The parameters

observed in this physical stability test include

changes in the shape, color and odor of the

preparation. From the form observations results on

to 30

day the preparation did not change on

shape. From the color observations results on the 1

to 30

day the color on the lip gloss preparations

remained stable and there were no changes in color

due to the addition of concentration of Rose Myrtle

fruit extract dye, so the resulting of lip gloss colors

became more concentrated.

Lip gloss stability test results showed that all

preparations made remained stable when it is stored

at room temperature for 30 days. The parameters

observed in this physical stability test include

changes in the shape, color and odor of the

preparation. From the form observations results on

to 30

day the preparation did not change on

shape. From the color observations results on the 1

to 30

day the color on the lip gloss preparations

remained stable and there were no changes in color

due to the addition of concentration of Rose Myrtle

fruit extract dye, so the resulting of lip gloss colors

became more concentrated.

Traditionally, Rose Myrtle leaves can be used to

stop bleeding, relieve pain such as chest pain, reduce

back pain and leaf collisions can be used to

compress the forehead to reduce body temperature

during fever. In Malaysia, leaf stew is taken to treat

diarrhea and as a medicine for stomach ache, while

in Indonesia it is used to heal wounds (Putri, 2015).

Based on the irritation tests results conducted on

15 panelists which is conducted by applying lip

gloss preparations to certain area behind the ear and

it is left open for approximately 24 hours, it showed

that all panelists gave negative results to the

irritation reaction. From the lip gloss preparation test

which is carried out on 15 panelists, it produced

good polish and evenly intensive and homogeneous

color when it is applied to the skin of forearm. Based

on the hedonic test data on 15 panelists, it is known

that the most preferred lip gloss preparation is the

concentration of Rose Myrtle fruit extract 14% with

a hedonic percentage of 2.8% panelists very fond of

this preparation. Lip glosses preparations with

concentration of 14% Rose Myrtle fruit extract are

easily polished, clear and bright colors, and

homogeneous, with a deep red color so that many

panelists like it because of its bright color. Lip gloss

preparations with 12% Rose Myrtle fruit extract with

hedonic percentage of 2.3% panelists liked this

preparation.

Maceration results from 4 kg of wet Rose Myrtle

fruit is obtained as much as 1 kg of dried Rose

Myrtle fruit, and then after the evaporation, it is

produced 96.58 grams of thick extract of Rose

Myrtle fruit.

Formulation of Rose Myrtle Fruit (Rhodomyrtustomentosa (Aiton) Hassk) Extract as a Natural Colors in Lipgloss

5 CONCLUSIONS

a) Rose Myrtle fruit extract dyes can be used as

natural dyes in lip gloss dosage formulations

because it contains anthocyanin and at the time of

color stability testing on lip gloss preparations did

not change.

b) The more concentration of Rose Myrtle fruit

extracts used in the formulation so it is more

concentrated the color of lip gloss preparation that is

produced. Lip gloss preparations with concentration

of 10% are red, with concentration of 12% are blood

red, and while with concentration of 14% are scarlet.

c) The Use of traditional formulation is the main

choice of society in addition to the inability of

people to byu modern cosmetic.

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