Gastronomy Tourism: Local Food and Sustainable Tourism
Experience - Case Study Cirebon
Mandradhitya Kusuma Putra
Sekolah Tinggi Pariwisata Bandung, Jl. Dr. Setiabudi No. 186, Bandung, Indonesia
Culinary Art Department
Keywords: Gastronomy tourism, Culinary tourism, sustainable experience
Abstract: Gastronomy tourism offers opportunity to generating benefit in order to promote local economy, socio-
culture and environmental conservation. This study was designed to investigate Gastronomy tourism
activity in Cirebon City and their role in creating sustainable tourism experience.
This topic has been chosen because of potential phenomenon in gastronomy tourism development in
Indonesia especially in west of java region. The study was conducted using qualitative methods with
triangulation data collection method. With the involvement of local community, Gastronomy tourist, food
industry as well as local government. SWOT data analysis technique and flow model analysis technique was
used in order to generate results.
The findings of this study shown that gastronomy tourism identity in Cirebon City is influenced by the
existence of acculturation of Chinese, Arabic and Indian culture which combined with the food ingredients
availability, ability in producing food, prevailing norms, religion, beliefs, and the characters of flavors
formed by culture and social control. The role of gastronomy tourism activities in Cirebon city provides a
high level of sustainable experience through the tourist. The products able to represent symbol of Cirebon as
a tourism destination. This study expected to contribute to the development of tourism and can be used as
reference in designing tourism development strategies in the city of Cirebon.
1 INTRODUCTION
To develop tourism in Indonesia It must refer to
global trends so that tourism in Indonesia will be
able to compete with existing competitors. Food
Tourism is one of the tourism activities included in
global tourism trends. Food Tourism gives tourist an
opportunity to explore a tourist destination. The term
gastronomy also appears to complement the
experience of tourists in enjoying food in a tourist
destination. Taleb Rifai who is the secretary-general
of UNWTO stated that; Gastronomy is a fashionable
trend, a form of hobby that is common or popular
with many people, and gastronomy is one of the
main reasons for people to travel for tourism
(UNWTO, 2017).
2 GASTRONOMY AS A TOURIST
ATTRACTION
The word 'gastro' comes from the word 'gastros'
which means stomach and 'gnomos' which means
science and law in Greek. And culinary is defined as
a country or a place where the origin of food is
served or prepared (Kivela & Crotts, 2006 in Guzel
& Apaydin, 2016). Another theory says that
gastronomy and cuisine have an understanding of a
form of appreciation for the process of cooking and
serving food (Albala, 2011). Furthermore, Horn &
Tsai (2008) explain gastronomy more to the
common understanding of consuming food and
drink, particularly when delicious food is enjoyed as
a form of beautiful art that is part of a superior
lifestyle.
The definition is also reinforced by Gillespie's
statement, "Gastronomy is about the recognition of a
variety of factors relevant to the foods and
beverages ate and consumed by a group, in locality,
Putra, M.
Gastronomy Tourism: Local Food and Sustainable Tourism Experience - Case Study Cirebon.
DOI: 10.5220/0009196500190029
In Proceedings of the 1st NHI Tourism Forum (NTF 2019) - Enhancing Innovation in Gastronomic for Millennials, pages 19-29
ISBN: 978-989-758-495-4
Copyright
c
2021 by SCITEPRESS Science and Technology Publications, Lda. All rights reserved
19
region or even nation" (Gillespie, 2002; 5 in Guzel,
2017). That understanding adds the place where the
food is served. and when talking about factors that
are relevant to food and drink can be interpreted as,
the characteristics of the ingredients, food
preparation, the cooking method process, the history
and cultural elements of the food, also involves the
way it is served, and the way the food is eaten.
In relation to tourism activities, many researchers
agree that the criteria for the success of a destination
in carrying out tourism activities will depend on the
ability of a destination to form or create and manage
demand and supply (Gunn, 1993; Tribe 2005 and
kivela & Crotts, 2008). Supply in tourism consists of
4 (four) sectors, namely; transportation, attractions,
services, and information and promotions (Tribe,
2005). Sector attractions are one component of
tourism economic activities that can bring the
tourism system to life. Attraction becomes a magnet
to attract tourists to visit a destination which offers
tourists a trip, activities and experiences that keep
them away from the daily activities at their place of
residence. usually shaped beach, natural panorama,
amusement parks and others.
In the previous day, the hospitality sector such as
food and beverage services and accommodation only
support the economic activities of tourism in a
destination. This sector is not even categorized as a
main attraction that can attract visitors to choose a
destination. However, this argument is disputed by
many scientists that the unique experience of eating
a local / typical dish of a destination can be an
attraction that encourages tourist to visits a
destination (Hall 2003, Kivela 2008, Nistoreanu
2014, Lee 2015). In fact, many studies have revealed
that one-third of a tourist's budget is spent on food.
In 2009, 24.9% of total expenditure per day by
tourists was spent on food in Spain (INE, 2010).
Moreover, it reaches 30% of the total expenditure
spent by tourists in a destination in several countries
such as in Cyprus and Ireland (UNWTO, 2010). And
that number will be growing from day to day. This
certainly reinforces the statement that local dishes /
tourist destination areas are one of the important
factors in determining the quality of tourism
activities.
Eating is no longer just a basic need, but it
becomes an important channel in understanding and
learning the identity and culture of a destination. If
examined deeper, an identity from a gastronomy in
an area will be determined by two (2) elements
namely; environment (geographical and climate) and
culture (history and ethnicity) (Harrington, 2005).
The most dominant environmental elements are
geographic and climatic factors, both of which will
affect the availability of food raw materials or
agricultural products as well as will affected the
ability to adapt to new products that arise due to
trends, lifestyles, or increasing demand along with
the increase travel activities to the area.
Furthermore, in the cultural elements, some of the
most dominant factors in influencing a Gastronomy
identity are religion, history, ethnic diversity,
innovation, capabilities, traditions, beliefs, and
applicable values or norms. These things will affect
the particular sector in gastronomy such as basic
ingredients, cooking methods, traditional cooking
methods, taste and texture of the food.
Figure 1: Gastronomy Identity Model (Harrington, 2005).
Currently, traveler no longer focused solely on
visiting tourist attractions of a destination. Tourism
activities prioritize on experiences that give
impression to the traveler. The experience made
them able to feel appreciation and freedom and get
out of their daily routine. Moreover, this is currently
supported by more capabilities of the traveler in
terms of time and also income. Therefore, many
tourists in the world are looking for an experience
and learning from every tourism activity that they
had in a destination. And gastronomy offers many
diverse experiences and also plays an important role
in shaping the impression of a destination.
Many terminologies are used to express the form
of the relationship between food and tourism. The
terminology that lately often appears and is used by
researchers are; culinary tourism, cuisine tourism,
Gastronomy tourism and food tourism (Horn & Tsai,
2008). Tourism, food service, and gastronomy have
their respective characteristics which explain and
characterize the relationships between one another.
Based on Kivela and Crotts (2006, at Canizares &
Guzman 2011) the term gastronomy includes
elements in culinary (dishes and methods for
preparing food) that focus not only on food but also
on drinks served at a tourist destination. Hall and
Mitchell (2005) describe food tourism as a visit to
food producers, food festivals, restaurants, and
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specific locations where food can be enjoyed to
become an experience; subsequently the experience
becomes a major motivation in tourism activities.
Then the definition was expanded by including
several concepts such as food as part of local
culture, as part or form of tourism promotion, as a
component that has the potential for the
development of agricultural products and local
economic development and so on (Tikanen, 2007).
Based on Richard (2012) Food also provides a base
of tourist experiences through the following matters;
1. Linking culture and Tourism, through
food, tourists can learn a culture from the locals.
2. Developing the meal experience, eating
experience involving all five human senses
including involving memory, it can build a dining
experience.
3. Producing distinctive foods, tourism
industry demand creativity, this will encourage
businesses to continue to innovate to create products
that have differentiation.
4. Developing critical infrastructure for food
production and consumption, infrastructure will be
the top priority in moving the wheel of food
production and consumption
5. Supporting local culture, Local food is
developed to support the existence of local culture in
a destination.
Gastronomy tourism is currently a phenomenon
that is being developed into a new tourism product
that will determine the quality of the tourist
experience at a destination. Harp & Sharples (2003)
defines Gastronomy tourism as a food tour where
the tourist activity provides Gastronomy experiences
originating from the region, in a form of recreation
or entertainment. This makes Gastronomy tourism
have an important role not only because food and
drinks are the center of the tourist experience.
Moreover, the concept of Gastronomy tourism has
evolved by embracing cultural practices and
includes learning from ethical and sustainable values
of a region, land, sea, local history, values and
cultural heritage (UNWTO, 2017).
2.1 Tourism, Gastronomy and
Sustainability
Gastronomy has a general meaning in consuming
food and drinks, especially in enjoying good food
and drinks as a form of superior lifestyle (Horn &
Tsai, 2008). In the encyclopedia Britannica
dictionary, gastronomy is defined as a form of art
rather than choosing, preparing, serving and
enjoying delicious food. The term Culinaria or
culinary is often equated with the term gastronomy
(Robinson, 2004). Food or culinary tourism has
developed in Indonesia which aroused when people
started to have less time to cook, but have desire and
interest in food as a form of experience to fill free
time so that they spend their free time eating outside
the home, coming to the food festival , learn how to
cook local food, as well as other activities (Sharples,
2003; Lopez & Sanchez, 2011; Wolf, 2016)).
Therefore, culinary or gastronomy tourism can be
described as a tourist activity where there is an
opportunity to enjoy food and drinks which makes
an experience where then it makes a motivation to
travel.
Furthermore, food and sustainable tourism
development have multidimensional effects. First,
by increasing the consumption of tourists to local
food it turns out to provide a multiplier effect that
can provide benefits to the local economy (Torres,
2002). The statement reinforces the concept
explained by Richard (2001). When an increase in
demand for local food indirectly increases the
demand for raw materials, then local raw materials
produced by a region will provide more employment
opportunities for local people. Both in providing
local food products. As well as the provision of local
resources that will supply local food production.
Secondly, by tourists consuming local food
indirectly will reduce the carbon footprint which is
an environmental consequence when food is
distributed throughout the world by using modes of
transportation that tend to produce pollution
(Boniface, 2003; Mithcell & Hallm 2003 in Sims,
2009). The statement is also in line with 17 new
agendas of sustainable development that have been
agreed by world leaders. Particularly in point 13, the
climate action reaffirms that tourism stakeholders in
developing a destination need to consider the
impacts on climate change, one of which is
influenced by the carbon footprint.
And thirdly, each tourist destination will
compete with each other in attracting the attention of
tourists to visit. A successful tourist destination will
have a high level of service and quality tourism
products, it will make the mission of each tourist
destination. Thus, each destination will compete in
creating "Iconic" products and experiences where
the product will become an identity and
characteristic of the tourist destination itself
(Hashimoto & Teffer, 2006; Woodland & Accot,
2007; Sims, 2009). Increasing the quality of a
destination, will directly generate benefits for the
surrounding community as tourism businesses.
Economically the community will receive benefits in
Gastronomy Tourism: Local Food and Sustainable Tourism Experience - Case Study Cirebon
21
the form of material compensation. Socially, people
realize that their culture is their main asset. Whereas
the main capital, it must be maintained until the next
generation can feel what they are currently feeling.
From the environmental aspect, focusing on the
quality of the community will realize that the natural
resources which are also the basic capital will be
well maintained.
In a study conducted by Karogkouni (2012),
there was an interesting statement related to the
relationship of gastronomic and sustainable tourism.
"Popular gastronomic destinations show a high
degree of" gastronomic patriotism "and they also:
Connect gastronomy with local traditions & culture,
connect tourism with agriculture & food / beverage,
processing fields, have excellent tourism portals, are
"tourist-friendly", Develop synergies, are managed
by professionals "(Karogkouni, 2012; 53). From this
statement, it can be concluded that gastronomic
tourism is proven to be able to encourage the
development of local tourism by promoting local
culture, but will continue to be creative to produce
different products without eliminating specialties,
encourage increased production of food ingredients,
increase synergy between sectors and will be able to
adapt to the times.
Gastronomy tourism is proven to have an ability
to formulate findings related to environmental and
cultural issues with genuine economic arguments
consistently. In developing global tourism, there are
many sustainable designs and actions, but the
impacts are clearly not sustainable. The idea that
needs to be developed is not to create pressure on
culinary heritage in an indiscriminate way, but by
creating a mechanism that will have an impact on
the ratio by considering sustainability. Along the
process, it is not only always discussing about new
innovations to attract tourists, but also by attracting
visitors to participate in cultural life, which has been
provided in the tourist area. The culture is well
described and interpreted through food, local
products and all forms of services and activities that
are around it.
2.2 Cirebon City as the Capital of
Gastronomy Tourism in West Java
Cirebon City is one of the cities in West Java which
has unique tourism attractions. It is the only port city
in West Java which is the border between West Java
and Central Java (Sucipto, 2010). Therefore,
Cirebon City has an important role in the world of
commerce where its position is in the path of
international trade crossings or commonly called the
Silk Road which connects western and eastern
regions (Adeng, 2004). This makes Cirebon City
included as Cheng Ho Ocean Route Tourist
Destination (Republika, 2015). Chinese, Indians and
Arabs were three nations that dominated trade in
Asia at that time, therefore, they gave a lot of
influences to the customs of Cirebon culture today.
Written in history, Cirebon is one of spreading
centers of first Islamic religion in Indonesia
(Muhaimin, 2006). Previously, local Javanese
people had tradition of Hindu and Buddhist culture.
In the process, people of Cirebon adopted the
teachings of Islam with the previous religion hence
it produced different color. Based on these data, in
the manuscript of purwaka caruban nagari the term
Cirebon is derived from the word 'caruban' which
means mixed, because at that time Cirebon was
inhabited by residents from various nationalities,
religions, languages and cultures.
Cirebon region which is located in the coastal is
known as shrimp-producing city. This is also what
makes the origin of the name of the city of Cirebon,
according to Kiratabasa Cirebon comes from the
word 'ci-rebon'. In Sundanese the word 'ci' means
'water' and the word 'rebon' means a type of small
shrimp (Adeng, 2004). Currently Cirebon City has 3
(three) palaces which are witnesses of the history of
the Indonesian people, especially West Java. The
shape of the building and architecture represents the
combination of ancient Java and Islam. The high
historical value and cultural aesthetics offered by
Cirebon certainly makes Cirebon to be one of
attractive destinations to visit.
The potential of Cirebon as one of gastronomic
tourist destination cities is open large, considering
that Cirebon has characteristic of products that are
rich in cultural and historical values and unique food
products that are not owned by other cities in West
Java. One of famous food products from Cirebon is
Terasi, this product has an important role in the
historical development of Cirebon. In some ancient
manuscripts of Cirebon history, Terasi is one of
local commodities traded since 14th century. Based
on text, terasi is the work of Pangeran Cakrabumi
(Cakrabuana) who is one of the children of King
Siliwangi. The products became an important
commodity in the life of people of Cirebon at that
time (Ketaren, 2014).
Nevertheless, there are many food products in
Cirebon which have historical value and are
different from other cities in West Java. This is what
attracts researchers to explore the potential of
Cirebon as gastronomy tourism destination.
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3 METHOD
This research used qualitative approach to the
phenomenon approach or case study description. By
collecting, analyzing and criticizing current issues
related to ongoing gastronomic tourism in Cirebon
and its relation to sustainable tourism experiences. It
examined facts and data that occur and experienced
by tourists and local communities. By combining
these two research methods generates broader and
deeper understanding. This study uses a
triangulation technique which will strengthen the
collection data. Observation method is carried out to
observe gastronomic tourism activities in Cirebon
City. Observation by visiting popular locations and
potential as a gastronomic tourist destination in the
city of Cirebon. 15 interview activities were
conducted at the research locus with 9 gastronomic
tourists who were conducting gastronomic tourism
activities in the city of Cirebon, 4 culinary managers
and traders, each representing different culinary
products, 3 destination managers to the policy
makers represented in this study were represented by
3 local officials related to tourism management. The
results of interviews and observations will be
documented in the form of field notes, videos,
photographs and sound recordings.
Data were analyzed with references in
accordance with the objectives of this study. By
making categories and clarifications based on logical
analysis. That is expected to make an interpretation
of the general objectives of this study. The form of
gastronomy tourism in the city of Cirebon, as well as
the motivation of tourists will provide the experience
gained after carrying out these tourist activities.
Using technical analysis of the stage model / flow
model developed by Milles and Hubberman (2015).
By making categories and clarifications based on
logical analysis. That is expected to generate an
interpretation of the general objectives of this study.
The form of gastronomic tourism in the city of
Cirebon, as well as the experience gained after
carrying out these tourist activities. In the process,
the researcher tries to present the meaning of each
data received. Thus, in the process of analyzing,
processing and developing data will be in line with
the development of the data itself. Data received
from participants will then be coded in order to
facilitate the categorization of data based on the
objectives and objectives of this study (Biklen
Casella, 2007). And the results will be displayed in
the form of a table or chart to facilitate the
compilation of these data.
SWOT Analysis is used to analyze data from
observations, interviews, and questionnaires. Then
the multivariate technique of grouping cases is used
in order to analyze the similarities between those
surveyed. And taken as a reference in determining
the level of interest in gastronomy when visiting the
tourist destination.
4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
4.1 Results and Discussion of
Gastronomic Tourism in Cirebon
City
To find out the first research question, the authors
made two approaches. The first is to conduct a
SWOT analysis to determine the strengths,
weaknesses, threats and opportunities of ongoing
gastronomic activities in the city of Cirebon. The
second approach is a model approach developed by
Harrington (2005) regarding the gastronomy identity
model that aims to determine the characteristics of
gastronomic tourism that Cirebon City has from the
results of a SWOT analysis that has been carried out
so that its identity can be known. Discussion on the
Cirebon City gastronomy identity model.
The data comes from the observations of author
and the results of interviews conducted by the
author. Semi structured interviews were conducted
with 19 participants representing 2 policy makers, 4
culinary business participants, 1 participant
represent tourism destination management and 3
academics representing participants. Each is carried
out in separate places at different times.
4.1.1 SWOT Analysis of the City of Cirebon
Gastronomy Tour based on the
Experiences and Perceptions of
Stakeholders
Information obtained from observation and
interview are then arranged in a SWOT matrix based
on recorded information from these specific
questions;
1. How can the role of gastronomic tourism
contribute to the regional development of
Cirebon City?
2. What are the strengths (weaknesses),
weaknesses (opportunities), opportunities
(opportunities) and threats (threats) of
gastronomic tourism in the city of Cirebon?
Gastronomy Tourism: Local Food and Sustainable Tourism Experience - Case Study Cirebon
23
Answering the first question, all respondents thought
unanimously stated that gastronomic tourism could
help promote local development in the city of
Cirebon. Specifically, several respondents explained
that the gastronomic tourism activities in the city of
Cirebon made an increase in demand, especially in
the food service industry sector. What makes
interesting is that the increment of demand was for
local food products that have the characteristic of the
City of Cirebon. The increasing demand for local
food products in the city of Cirebon also has a
domino effect on improving the image of Cirebon
City as a tourist destination. Forms of promotion of
local products in some places, who are selling
souvenirs and food, have a direct impact on the
development of the local economy of the city of
Cirebon. Following, some answers from the
interviews that represent the above statements;
"As we know, that tourists who deliberately
come to this city for a culinary tour and visit
several places to eat then spend the night 1 or 2
days. Indirectly, there is an immediate impact
that can be felt by locals, within 1 or 2 days the
expenditure they spent is spread not only at the
place of eating, but also at the place who sell
souvenirs, batik, crafts, and souvenirs. And that
certainly has contribution to the local economy
"(Participants represent regional policy makers)
"What gastronomy tourism provides to the
development of the city of Cirebon is how this
activity can provide prosperity for the local
community. For that, we thank to tourism
activity and also thank you for the development
of information technology so that everyone can
easily get knowledge and information about the
product offered". (participants represent culinary
business people)
"Although only as a transit city, but this city is in
a strategic location. We can see how the growth
in number of restaurants, places to eat, places to
sell souvenirs, batik shops and others, which
continues to increase from year to year. The
number of hotels there has also increased
dramatically. And the occupancy is high. All that
because Cirebon has strength in cultural tourism,
one of which is food. (participants represent the
provincial government).
"Obviously this gastronomic tour in Cirebon City
has produced a lot of development. Because
these activities have a commitment in promoting
local products, local workers and local basic
ingredients. These things are very positive in the
local development of Cirebon City. (participants
represent academics) ".
"Empal gentong, nasi jamblang, nasi lengko,
tahu gejrot the names of foods that promote
Cirebon as a culinary tourism destination
throughout Indonesia. Many people come to
Cirebon because they see Pak Bondan eating
empal gentong and satay kalong on TV. From
there our people get a lot of economic benefits.
Requests for business licenses in the field of
tourism, especially culinary, also continue to
increase from year to year. Including the field of
animal husbandry and
fisheries ". (Participants
represent culinary business people).
Moreover, interview results there are some
similarities of answers that stand out in every aspect
that is displayed. In the aspect of Weakness, 2 (two)
of the 4 (four) answers coming from culinary
business people in Cirebon City agreed on the
government's lack of role in supporting culinary
entrepreneurs in this City. Cirebon City's tax
revenue from the culinary sector is fairly high and
continues to increase each year. However, the
increasing regional tax revenue is not in line with
developments in infrastructure and regulations
related to the development of local culinary in the
City. For example, traffic jams which occur in the
city of Cirebon every weekend more or less affect
tourist’s preference in selecting place to eat.
Communication between the local government and
culinary business practitioners must be enhanced to
establish good collaboration and cooperation which
provides mutual benefits for the development of
gastronomic tourism in the city of Cirebon. While
the similarity of data on aspects of weaknesses also
arise from policy makers and tourism academics in
the City, the understanding and skills possessed by
local people regarding quality and standard service
and products are still low. This will limit
segmentation of the gastronomic tourist market. To
be able to attract tourists from all segments,
definitely this city must be able to offer a variety of
products and services accordingly with demand of
the market segmentation.
In the aspect of threats, business operators and
managers of tourist destination areas mentioned That
is the existence of globalization shift the mindset of
business people and local communities about local
food products sustainability. In addition, similarities
also occur when there is a threat regarding the
NTF 2019 - The NHI Tourism Forum
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supply of local basic materials which has standard
quality and price consistency. Other threats that need
to be concern are related to issues that can generate
social conflict among local people. Cultural tourism
activities in which there are gastronomic products
sometimes contradicting with religious values
adopted by the majority of local people. This can
lead to social conflict if it is not well communicated
by policy makers and stakeholders
Meanwhile, the main strength is the diversity of
cultures that generate unique food products. In
addition, other similarities which are displayed is
geographically located in a strategic location, this
causes Cirebon to always be visited by people who
are traveling. And also, because Cirebon has diverse
food commodities.
Similarity of opportunity arises from almost
every category of participants. One of it is the
international airport that will operate in the near
future; therefore, Cirebon will have direct access
that will give positive impact in the development of
culinary tourism in Cirebon. In addition, marine
tourism which is planned to be developed by the
regional government will open new opportunities for
the development of marine-based gastronomic
tourism.
4.2 Results and Discussion of the
Identity of Gastronomic Tourism in
the City of Cirebon
4.2.1 Cultural Aspects
The concept of culture and food have been produced
and continue to emerge from sociologists and
anthropologists in many years. The experts explain
eating habits as a behavior displays the rituals of a
civilization and these eating habits show the symbol
of a broad community structure which has a deep
meaning, it indicates that "taste is formed by culture
and can be controlled socially. "(Atkins & Bowler,
2001). Moreover, eating and drinking habits in an
area are shaped by cultural norms and traditional
events that emerge from time to time. The norms
and events including; the history of the area, the
food system used, the number and location of the
food trade, traditions, beliefs and the ability to
develop food products.
The history of typical food in Cirebon are indeed
not well documented. Research or studies related to
this matter are still very limited. However, historical
information can be obtained from business people or
from local community leaders. Located on the island
of Java, the city of Cirebon has a blend of Sundanese
and Javanese cultures where the culture is also
heavily influenced by foreign cultures related with
beliefs, religions, or customs of a tribe in Indonesia.
The emergence of Cirebon specialty food products
begins with the habits of local community based on
geographical factors makes rice a major source of
carbohydrates. Furthermore, in the past Cirebon
became an international trade channel where spices
are one of popular commodities that traded.
Therefore, Cirebon’s food has wealth in terms of
flavor. And in addition, agricultural products also
traded at that time, it increased the agriculture
production of Cirebon. This continues to be a habit
in the community and enriched local food in this
city. Gastronomic tradition arises from contact or
communication established by local community with
foreign traders. From the condition, it produced new
types of products, new methods and ingredients as
well as ethics in consuming foods. As an example of
how Chinese noodles are then adopted by the local
community and processed in such way and then
generating new variants of food which are different
from the originals.
Gastronomy in this city cannot be separated from
the influence of religion. For example, empal which
is the name of food that comes from Java use protein
comes from beef. However, because in this city the
majority of the people were Hindus, so as to respect
the religion of their ancestors, empal gentong in
some places uses buffalo meat as its main source of
protein instead of beef. Another example is how
bogana rice served during the Islamic New Year
which is a symbol of gratitude and modesty of the
people of Cirebon.
4.2.2 Environmental Aspects
The environmental aspect is one of the external
aspects that influences food production,
development, innovation and food business. Many
studies on this matter have resulted in variations of
new products, innovations in sales, techniques and
new methods of production.
In the case of Cirebon, the author obtained some
data related to these environmental factors, for
example how the yield of marine commodities in the
City now is not as much as before. Environmental
damage due to mining, fishing activities, and other
human activities cause availability of basic materials
to decreased. The impact is related to increasing of
economic price of these basic materials. The most
threatening thing is the use of teak leaves for Lengko
rice. At present the availability of these leaves has
Gastronomy Tourism: Local Food and Sustainable Tourism Experience - Case Study Cirebon
25
begun to decreasing. One of traders stated that they
got the material from outside the city of Cirebon.
The specificity of food and beverage products in
the city of Cirebon is certainly influenced by
environmental factors. Although actually the
commodity variant in the city of Cirebon is not
much different from the regions in the archipelago.
Raw meat derived from chicken and duck, fish and
seafood, beef, buffalo and others remain as the main
commodities in the City. Therefore, it can be
concluded in the environmental aspect there is not
much difference regarding materials produced in this
area when compared to other regions on the island of
Java. The influence of environment is more severe
on the availability of these raw materials which can
have an impact on other factors. Further example is
scarcity of ingredients that will affect the selling
value of a typical Cirebon food or beverage product.
4.2.3 Gastronomic Identity of Cirebon City
From the discussion above, it is found several
aspects that can affect gastronomic identity in an
area. The process of identifying these characteristics,
can provide knowledge to the observers related to
matters that will affect the flavor, texture and other
characteristic components. The taste, ethics and
recipes profile of an area predominantly arises from
a continuous interaction and due to changes in
lifestyle, traditions, culture and climate. Almost all
types of dishes and gastronomic traditions are
formed through a combination of basic ingredients,
and techniques as a result of a mixture of diverse
cultures, tribal and historical influences with the
limitations of the availability of the product and the
way it is processed.
Therefore, it is shown that gastronomic identity
in the city of Cirebon was formed due to a mix of
cultures originating from outsider such as, China,
Arabic, India combined with the availability of
materials, local people's knowledge about processing
methods, applicable norms, religion, beliefs and
taste characteristics formed by culture and socially
controlled.
4.3 Results and Discussion the Role of
Gastronomic Tourism in
Generating Sustainable
Experiences
In order to explore values and motivations of tourists
in choosing food while on vacation, a qualitative
approach based on semi structured interviews was
conducted with 9 tourists who visited several places
to eat and see cultural tourism attractions in the city
of Cirebon during November 2018. This data
collection strategy provides benefits for writers,
firstly, it is easier for writers to access tourists from
a wide variety of backgrounds. And second, by
interviewing tourists when they are on vacation and
have free time, providing opportunities to gain
deeper perception.
During the interview participants were asked a
number of questions about type of food and drinks
they were consuming when they were on vacation in
the city of Cirebon and then asked to explain why
they consumed the selected foods and why they did
not choose certain foods. Participants were also
asked whether certain types of local foods were in
their eating choices. Then participants were also
asked to describe the differences between the food
they consume in the city of Cirebon and the food
they normally consume daily. In these ways author
is expected to explore how certain foods have a
close relationship with the city of Cirebon and to get
a comparison of experiences which have been
experienced by participants about food in other
tourist destinations.
4.4 Results and Discussion of Cirebon
Special Food Can Be a Cultural
Feature and Symbol of Cirebon
City in Creating a Sustainable
Tourism Experience
In this study, the writer found that it was important
to be able to investigate how the interaction of
tourists with certain types of food products when
they are having vacation in an area. This is
important in order to get justification related to the
question of why local food plays an important role in
the concept of sustainable tourism. A total of 7
interviewees answered that they had or would buy
food or drinks as souvenirs when they were on
vacation or stopped in Cirebon. Participants
purchased souvenirs, ranging from snacks or
beverage products to heavy food. Some participants
even thought that the identity of certain food
products was more important than the holiday
activity itself. Below are some quotes from the
participants about Cirebon specialty food products
brought home as souvenirs;
P1 "Oh of course, if you go to Cirebon don't buy
campolai syrup, shrimp paste, or shrimp crackers
and chips it means you haven't been to Cirebon
yet!"
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26
P5 "I am certainly bringing food for souvenirs at
the gift shops, sometimes I also buy batik.
Because that's the proof if I came here. "
P4 "along the way out of the city of Cirebon or in
the city many are selling souvenirs, and usually
the type is durable. The packaging is also pretty
much now. So definitely buy ".
P9 "In fact, I came here specifically to eat and
bring souvenirs."
Some experts argue that tourists usually look for
the uniqueness of a place with their own perceptions,
food and drink are the best example to characterize
these characteristics. And the result, if they think
they want to be a good traveler (good traveler) they
have to find and buy distinctive products. The idea
or idea as a good traveler is important to be
conserved in developing sustainable tourism because
the results of previous studies have shown that local
food is popular because local food is related to the
values of local people, makes the environment
better, preserves culture and supports local
economy.
Foods and drinks involve all the human senses
and have a stronger relationship because when
consuming food with the atmosphere or in certain
places will be directly related to senses, including
the memory sensor. Consumer will be able to
memorize an event, bring back emotions to a place
and time in the past. One participant stated that;
"Jamblang rice ... Reminds me of the city in the 70s
when my uncle worked here. Every time we had
vacation at our uncle's place, the bus always stops at
this intersection. Before going to our uncle's house,
we would have eaten here first. Before it was not as
good as this place .... ".
Local food and drinks don't just act as souvenirs.
In the city of Cirebon, more tourists consume local
food such as empal gentong, Lengko rice or
jamblang rice directly at the food places provided. 8
out of 9 participants stated that they prefer to
consume foods and beverages that they consider
well known as Cirebon special food rather than
looking for other foods when they are on vacation or
stop in Cirebon. Tourists will prefer foods that can
reflect the natural conditions or daily food in the
City. ‘I think, this special food is part of Cirebon
culture, right? Other participants even stated; ‘If you
are on vacation, people will look for local
specialties, right? If you go to Bali, look for it ... if
you go to Padang ... then if you go to Cirebon, then
this food ". The statement rationalizes the desire of
tourists to look for authentic experiences on
vacation. This indicates two things; the first for
tourists looking for local food means finding
authentic, distinctive foods that characterize the food
as coming from a place and shaped by culture. And
the second; the search for local food as a form of
authentic local food demands or authentic so that it
can refute the doubts of those who think that local
food is only a form of claim from a business unit in
the name of 'souvenirs'.
From the discussion above it is reflected that
local food can be an asset in tourism development
because of its ability to form a symbol of a place and
culture of an area or destination. In the development
of sustainable tourism, local food is also able to
create ideas or good ideas in shaping the 'good
traveler' feeling earlier. Or the ability of gastronomic
products in connecting experiences with a
destination both during and after his visit. Local
food and drinks are an asset for integrated and
sustainable tourism which is why local people can
offer authentic experiences that are able to remind
tourists of the region or culture of a tourist
destination.
5 CONCLUSIONS AND
RECOMMENDATIONS
Gastronomy tourism in the city of Cirebon has a
great potential in developing local economy and
supporting environmental sustainability as well as
the efforts to preserve local culture. Gastronomy
tourism activities in the city of Cirebon proved able
to turn on other sectors besides tourism in the city of
Cirebon. The impact of this activity is very
significant when accompanied with the development
of infrastructure by central government. So that
access to the city of Cirebon is easier to reach by
tourists. However, there are number of weaknesses
and dominant threats from participants' answers
regarding gastronomic tourism activities in the city
of Cirebon. Business operators consider local
government to be less supportive of this activity
from infrastructure as well as certainty in getting the
supply of basic materials. The dominant threat also
arises when the professions which supports
gastronomic tourism sector are getting little interest
from local community.
Gastronomic tourism identity in the city of
Cirebon is formed by the existence of a blend
external culture that has existed since long time ago
and developed along with the environment. The
aspect that affected the development of gastronomy
identity are namely; the availability of basic
ingredients, the level of community understanding
Gastronomy Tourism: Local Food and Sustainable Tourism Experience - Case Study Cirebon
27
related to food and beverage processing, religion,
beliefs, prevailing norms and traditions which
existed. The identity of the taste of food and
beverage products in the city of Cirebon are formed
by culture and socially controlled. Cirebon local
food can become a symbol of place and culture and
form an idea related to a good traveler where it can
create a sustainable experience for tourists who have
and are traveling in the city.
From the conclusions above, it produced several
recommendations as a form of reference in building
sustainable gastronomy tourism in the city of
Cirebon. The recommendations are; seeing the huge
potential of gastronomy tourism with its current
development, local government is expected to be
able to establish more communication with all
stakeholders related to gastronomy tourism in the
city of Cirebon. There are several obstacles that is
left unchecked will slow the growth rate of
gastronomy tourism sector. Policies related to local
food need to be formulated in the near future. Local
governments also need to intensify support activities
such as livestock, plantations and fisheries that have
a strategic role in the continuity of these activities.
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