Utilization of Robusta Coffee (Coffea Canephora) Wood as Stylish
Wooden Sunglasses for Young People
Mahanani Anggun Dorojati and Ellya Zulaikha
Faculty of Architecture, Design, and Planning, Institut Teknologi Sepuluh Nopember, Surabaya, Indonesia
Keywords: Wood coffee, wooden glasses, modern.
Abstract: Nowadays wooden sunglasses are popular to bring quirky impression as it has eco-design value. Teak,
sonokeling, or ebony are types of wood commonly used as wooden sunglasses. Meanwhile, there is a type of
wood with abundant availability in East Java that is also potential to use: Robusta coffee (Coffea Canephora)
wood, as this wood is hard enough and has sufficient elasticity. However, the economic value of this wood is
currently low, as it is only used as firewood. This research aims to optimize the economic value of Robusta
coffee wood by utilizing them as sunglasses. The first step was market analysis to decide who was the potential
target of user/consumer/buyer. The next analysis was “persona” and artifact analysis. “Persona” method was
used to illustrate the behavior and lifestyle of the user, while artifact analysis is to get a picture or the pattern
of fashion-stuffs owned by the user. These methods resulted in three series of design concepts: “Diver”,
“Sherlock”, and “Storyteller”. Furthermore, a mood board was made as a design guide, by collecting images,
photos and material containing the related situation, theme or color. Mood board aims to determine the shape
of wooden sunglasses to meet the design concept. Finally, experiments were conducted by the exploration of
wood materials to meet the impression as determined by design concept, those are wood cutting processes
with many patterns, finishing, layering, laser cutting, mix-material, wood bending, component mounting
support, and the market test. The results of this study indicate that Robusta coffee wood has the potential to
be developed into wooden sunglasses. The challenge lies in the process of cutting (mostly wood coffee has a
lot of cracks), mixing wood with resin, the fit into anthropometry requirement, and bending wood. The quality
control will guarantee precise and consistent quality to ensure the wooden sunglasses is comfortable to wea.
1 INTRODUCTION
Sunglasses with wooden frames are becoming a
phenomenon of fashion trends. Wooden sunglasses
are increasingly popular among young people and
public figures as they can bring a quirky impression
(Adventa, 2016).
As a tropical country, Indonesia's potential in
producing timber is very large. That is why wood raw
material is used for various purposes. Countless
woodcraft products, ranging from furniture, cutlery,
home decor, to accessories. Eco-design and the use of
natural materials as raw materials are increasingly
widespread. Market demand for environmentally
friendly products is increasing (Arianto, 2017).
Figure 1: Comparison of Interest Pictures Over time on
wooden sunglasses and plastic sunglasses (Google Trend,
2018)
The above is a graph of the comparison of
eyeglass trends over the past 2 years between wooden
sunglasses and plastic sunglasses in Indonesia. It can
be seen that the interest over time of wood sunglasses
is higher than plastic sunglasses. The distribution of
Dorojati, M. and Zulaikha, E.
Utilization of Robusta Coffee (Coffea Canephora) Wood as Stylish Wooden Sunglasses for Young People.
DOI: 10.5220/0008546300950104
In Proceedings of the 1st International Conference on Interdisciplinary Arts and Humanities (ICONARTIES 2019), pages 95-104
ISBN: 978-989-758-450-3
Copyright
c
2020 by SCITEPRESS Science and Technology Publications, Lda. All rights reserved
95
interest is also more evenly distributed than plastic
sunglasses.
Types of wood usually used for wooden
sunglasses are teak, rosewood, and ebony. It is
because those woods are hard but still have sufficient
elasticity for bending feature needed for sunglasses.
There is another type of wood that is hard and elastic
enough which is coffee wood.
It is noted that Indonesia is the fourth largest
coffee producer in the world after Brazil, Vietnam,
and Colombia. According to statistics from the
Directorate General of Plantation of Indonesia
(2017), in 2017 Indonesia was able to produce
637,539 tons of coffee beans at 1,227,787 hectares of
land. The land area increases when compared to the
previous year which was 1,228,512 Ha. This proves
that Indonesia has very large coffee land and
continues to increase every year. [2] According to the
Plantation Office of East Java Province (2017), most
of the coffee production in East Java is Robusta
coffee. The area of robusta coffee fields in East Java
in 2017 is 85,075 hectares with a production of
51,107 tons. The calculation is far more than Arabica
coffee which in 2017 in East Java there was only
21,380 Ha of coffee land with a production of 16,507
tons.
East Java has a coffee plantation area of 85,075 ha
in 2017 (Statistics of Agriculture Office of Indonesia,
2017). One hectare on average consists of 1,200
coffee trees, so in East Java, there are at least 102
million coffee trees. From the above calculations, it
can be concluded that the availability of wood coffee
in East Java is very abundant at 102 million coffee
trees
East Java is noted to have extensive coffee
plantation land owned both government and private
(Arianto, 2017). The abundance of this coffee
plantation is not yet optimally utilized, especially the
wood. So far, the utilization of coffee wood is only
for drum sticks, ashtrays, prayer beads, machetes, and
furniture. These products use sapwood, while coffee
wood that has been cut down for a long time and
already being old and dry, tends not to be utilized.
Therefore, this old and dry coffee wood has only been
used as firewood.
The small size of coffee wood and its irregular
stems make coffee wood less attractive to the people
of East Java. Wood coffee is mostly just a substitute
for coffee bean production. That is coffee wood in
East Java is only used as firewood that has lack of
economic value.
2 LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Classification of Robusta Coffee
(Coffea Canephora)
Robusta coffee plants have better adaptations
compared to arabica type coffee. The area of robusta
coffee plantations in Indonesia is relatively extensive.
Because the type of Robusta coffee can grow at a
lower altitude than the location of Arabica
plantations. The original Robusta coffee is almost
gone. Currently, several types of Robusta have been
mixed into clones or hybrids, such as BP 39, BP 42,
SA 13, SA 34, and SA 56 clones. Robusta coffee
production, in general, can reach 800-2,000
kg/hectare/ year (Directorate General Plantation of
Indonesia, 2002).
Based on taxonomy, the scientific classification
of the robusta coffee plant (Coffea canephora) is
included in:
Kingdom : Plantea
Division : Magnoliophyta
Sub Kingdom : Tracheobionta
Superdivision : Spermatophyta
Class : Magnoliopsida
Subclass : Asteridae
Orde : Rubiales
Family : Rubiaceae
Genus : Coffea
Species : Coffea Robusta
2.2 Productive and Moisture Content
of Robusta Coffee
The sapwood of coffee wood has a high water content
so the coffee wood must be dried first to reach the
desired moisture content. Or we can also use
hardwood, the old and dry one. Coffee wood water
content can be known as (Risky, 2015).
Table 1. Productive Age Tables and Robusta Coffee Water
Content
Sa
p
woo
d
Hardwoo
d
• Teenage years
• Unproductive
• The Moisture> 20%
• 50 years old
• Rejuvenation results
• The moisture content of
12%
2.3 Productive and Moisture Content
of Robusta Coffee
Wooden sunglasses have been made and are on the
market. So far there are several wooden sunglasses
ICONARTIES 2019 - 1st International Conference on Interdisciplinary Arts and Humanities
96
brands on the market. Some use wood as raw material
but use more metal than wood. There are also those
who use wood materials, but the products are 100%
customed design. There are also those who market
their products with a predetermined form from the
beginning but duplicate the design of non-wood
material glasses. So that no one has specifically
explored the uniqueness of wood coffee
Do not add any text to the headers (do not set
running heads) and footers, not even page numbers,
because text will be added electronically. For a best
viewing experience the used font must be Times New
Roman, on a Macintosh use the font named times,
except on special occasions, such as program code
(Section 2.3.7).
3 METHODS
The first step was market analysis to decide who was
the potential target of user/consumer/buyer. The next
analysis was “persona” and artifact analysis.
“Persona” method was used to illustrate the behavior
and lifestyle of the user, while artifact analysis is to
get a picture or the pattern of fashion-stuffs owned by
the user. These methods resulted in three series of
design concepts: “Diver”, “Sherlock”, and
“Storyteller”. Furthermore, a mood board was made
as a design guide, by collecting images, photos and
material containing the related situation, theme or
color. Mood board aims to determine the shape of
wooden sunglasses to meet the design concept.
Finally, experiments were conducted by the
exploration of wood materials to meet the impression
as determined by design concept.
Figure 2: Design Framework
4 RESULT AND DISCUSSION
4.1 Persona
This persona is obtained from observations of
potential target markets, with the following
description:
Name : Katie
Age : 25 years old
Hobbies : Water Activities (Swimming, Diving,
Cruising)
Katie is a singer and actress. Katie is an Instagram
user with a large follower of 136.4 million followers.
Katie likes to spend time watching horror movies
while having free time. But when viewed from the
vacation pattern, Katie always spends his time close
to water, ranging from just swimming, beach tanning,
cruising to scuba diving. Katie is a public figure who
represents the millennials and is seen often wearing
glasses, especially sunglasses.
Figure 3: Design Framework
From the classification of prospective customers
according to their attention style and social class, it is
classified as sophisticated because prospective
customers have high economic status and are
followed by culture or the desire to buy a product is
also high. The characteristics of sophisticated users:
1. Good treatment: A sophisticated person has a high
sense of responsibility for every work done. They are
more mature and wise in determining a decision.
Caring with the issues around and they became an
inspirational figure for people around.
2. Having high knowledge: Having knowledge that is
relatively good, intelligent, and hard-working, so
from the point of socializing they are very great and
can balance their interlocutors.
3. Fashionable: Have a taste in fashion. Beautiful
appearance looks neat, the tendency to appear
naturally, not excessive.
Utilization of Robusta Coffee (Coffea Canephora) Wood as Stylish Wooden Sunglasses for Young People
97
4. Good relationship: Having a close relationship both
in relatives and family. So that it can build trust for
those around them.
4.2 Artefact Analysis
Katie looks like she often wears glasses that tend to
be rounded, circle, and big rims. For the style of her
own glasses, Katie likes classic-style glasses. It can
be seen from the shape of the glasses she wears that
are tend to be rounded and sometimes she is also seen
wearing sunglasses with top bars and original
aviators. Katie likes to wear glasses with a mild
impression. For the type of glasses based on the lens,
Katie is more often seen wearing sunglasses. Not only
black lenses but she also seen several times using
colored lenses, both mirror lenses, and polarised
lenses.
4.3 Moodboard
Moodboards are carried out in parallel with artifact
analysis by identifying themes and colors. Based on
the product used by the person, the person tends to
like to wear comfortable clothing, for example,
sweaters, jumpsuit, plain t-shirts. Persona also likes
clothing with a classic style and not an era like
turtlenecks and denim. Persona sometimes uses a
dress, but the dress used tends to be nuanced summer
dress and still very comfortable to use. for footwear,
people prefer to use sneakers. Persona only uses high
heels when attending large and formal events. The
conclusion is found that street style and urban style
are in demand by persona.
4.4 Experiment
Experiments in this research consist of: wood cutting
processes with many patterns, finishing, layering,
laser cutting, mixing material, wood bending and
market test.
4.4.1 Wood Cutting Process
This wood cutting process experiment is needed
considering the wood character of Robusta coffee
which has many cracks and tends to be small in
diameter
Because of the analysis of the type of cut pattern
found that the most suitable cut pattern is vertical, it
is necessary to analyze the number of wooden boards
that can be produced from one robusta coffee stick.
Based on the types of cut patterns based on fiber in
the cross-sectional pattern in Figure 2.2, the most
suitable coffee wood is cut based on the radial board
pattern because its diameter is relatively small which
is the lowest average of 48 mm Whereas the thickness
of the wooden board chased is 10 mm. This is to
pursue the production process of sunglasses that are
really thin layered.
Figure 4: Minimal Radial Cut Pattern
Analyzed on the minimum cross-section of the
coffee log, the coffee wood is 48 mm in diameter, it
was found that one log of wood produced 4 wooden
boards. Variants of wooden board sizes are 46mm,
42mm, 23mm, and 20mm. Everything is 10mm thick.
Figure 5: Maximum Radial Cut Patterns
Analyzed on the maximum average cross-section
of the coffee wood trunk, namely coffee wood 72 mm
in diameter, it was found that one log of coffee
produced 6 wooden boards. The wooden board
variants are 69mm, 68mm, 62mm, 54mm, 32mm, and
29mm. Everything is 10mm thick.
Based on the above analysis, it can be concluded
that the rims are most suitable for using large
diameter logs because the average rims of the
sunglasses are 55mm. As for the part of the paste or
stalk sunglasses can use large or small rods.
4.4.2 Finishing Analysis
Woodstain: If the surface of the wood is still rough it
must be done more than twice the brush to achieve a
pretty good finishing. The typical color of coffee will
disappear. The wood texture of the coffee looks
clearer. In the end result, the coffee wood surface will
look slightly shiny.
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Figure 6: Final results of wood stain finishing
Fine Sandpaper: If there is a small crack on the
coffee surface of the coffee wood, then during this
sanding process it is smoothed easily.
Figure 7: Final Results of Fine Sandpaper
Polyurethane: This finishing was carried out
with the help of craftsmen from Sahawood
eyeglasses. The end result is relatively slightly shiny,
does not remove the texture of coffee wood fiber, and
is waterproof.
Figure 8: Example of the results of finishing using
polyurethane
Based on the end result, Polyurethane Finishing is
the most efficient finishing because of its character
which does not remove wood fiber and wood color.
As well as its waterproof character does not inhibit its
users to use their sunglasses while in humid areas or
do water activities.
4.5 Trend Analysis
Trend analysis is done to select the final design
concept that will be used from alternative design
concepts. Of the three alternative concepts, keywords
were taken to define trends during the last 12 months
in Indonesia.
For the concept of diver, keywords diving is taken
to represent the activities of divers or divers. For
Sherlock, Sherlock's own keywords are taken,
because Sherlock is a fictional character who can
represent himself. Whereas for the storyteller concept
Robusta keywords are taken as a phenomenon raised
in the concept.
Figure 9: Interest Over Time from the Third Keyword
Alternative Concept (Google Trend, 2018)
Judging from the Interest Over Time chart over
the past 12 months, it has been seen that keywords
diving and Sherlock top the level of interest in
Indonesian society compared to Robusta. Both have
competitive and balanced graphics. But diving charts
tend to be stable at an average of around 60%. From
the graph above it can be concluded that the diver
concept represented by diving keywords has the
greatest potential to be lifted.
Coffee Wood x Metal
In the mix-material experiment was carried out to find
out the possible compatibility of coffee wood
combined with other materials. The following are the
results of a wood mix-material experiment. Given
metal is a material that is always in demand in
eyewear products.
Figure 10: Coffee Wood x Metal Experiment
Utilization of Robusta Coffee (Coffea Canephora) Wood as Stylish Wooden Sunglasses for Young People
99
The experiment was carried out by combining
robusta coffee wood material with stainless steel in
the bridge and top bar sections. Judging from the
experiments above, metal and coffee wood have a
match, because it turns out that the combination of
wood and metal brings synergy and balances the
impression of wood that is too dense and impresses
stocky. But in the manufacturing process requires
more precision. This is because there are more
connection details between wood and metal that must
be made, including plumbing for screw mounting and
base rims.
Coffee Wood x Eboni Wood:
Figure 11: Experiments on Mix Materials between Coffee
Wood and Wood Timber
In this experiment, the two types of wood, namely
coffee robusta and ebony wood were cut according to
the profile of the sunglasses using laser cutting. Then
put together with white glue. The combination of both
gives an impression like browline sunglasses. This is
because the color of ebony is much darker, namely
dark brown.
Coffee Wood x Polyester Resin: From the
experimental Mix Material between Coffee Wood
Skin and Polyester Resin, it was found that the resin
end result was bubbling. In addition, the final results
of dry resin are evenly distributed but not at the same
level of flexibility. Found in some parts dry but
slightly flexible like rubber.
Figure 12: Experiments on Mixing Materials between
Coffee Wood Skin and Polyester Resin
Coffee Wood x Epoxy Resin: The experiments were
first carried out in 3 types of experiments with
different pigment consistencies. This is to find out the
best consistency for the product applied to small
products such as sunglasses, and the end result.
Figure 13: Mix-material experiments (epoxy coffee wood)
1
In Experiment 1, 2 times resin pouring was carried
out. The first resin pour is navy blue with some white
pigment. Failure was found that it turned out that the
pigment precipitated and damaged the reaction
between the catalyst and resin so that it did not dry
completely. Subsequent pouring is a resin with
sufficient pigment to produce an almost clear navy. In
this process, it is found that the dry resin is perfect.
The pigments do not settle and interfere with the
drying process. The total drying time is 49 hours.
ICONARTIES 2019 - 1st International Conference on Interdisciplinary Arts and Humanities
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Figure 14: Mix-material experiments (epoxy coffee wood)
2
In experiment 2 only uses one type of resin. Clear
resins are mixed with very little blue pigment. In this
experiment the dry resin is perfect, and the pigment
does not interfere with the drying process. Total
drying time is 24 hours.
Figure 15: Mix-material experiments (epoxy coffee wood)
3
In experiment 3, pouring the first resin with
concentrations of sea blue pigments is quite a lot like
experiment 1 and produces a similar result which is
not perfectly dry, even the resin is not sticky to wood
and can be separated from wood. Then the second
experiment was carried out by pouring a resin with a
low pigment concentration such as experiment 2
between the non-dry resin and coffee wood. It is
produced that the pouring of the second resin is
completely dry and adhesives to the over pigmented
wood and resin surfaces. The drying time is 56 hours.
The combination of resin and wood coffee has a
unique blend in visual terms because it produces the
impression of underwater and sky. However, in the
manufacturing process, it was found that the over
pigmented resin would not be completely dry and
sticky, this is because the drying process of the
pigment tends to settle and disrupt the catalyst
concentration to the resin. So using resin with low
pigment levels is the best choice.
After knowing the best levels of pigments for
epoxy resin, another experiment was conducted with
the best levels of pigments, namely very low
pigments.
F
igure 16: Mix-material experiments (epoxy coffee wood)
4
From the above experiment, a new board was
formed in the form of a mixture of resin material and
robusta coffee wood. From the board above it can be
used to form eyewear profiles. Coffee Wood Skin x
Epoxy Resin:
Figure 17: MIX-material experiments (epoxy coffee wood)
5
In the experiment above it was found that bark
retains its exotic color, which is a darker color than
wood.
5 WOOD BENDING
EXPERIMENT
Sunglasses have a slight curvature in the temples.
Then a wood bending experiment was carried out
using a steel profile tool. The experiment was carried
out directly on coffee wood. Wood is pressed from
both directions to have the desired stickiness. In this
experiment, there were no problems. Perfect curved
wood with a high curvature can reach 30 mm.
Figure 18: Bending experiments of coffee wood
Utilization of Robusta Coffee (Coffea Canephora) Wood as Stylish Wooden Sunglasses for Young People
101
Figure 19: Final result of coffee wood bending experiments.
6 ANTHROPOMETRY ANALYSIS
Based on the Ergonomics Journal of Reading Glasses
(Faisal, 2016), the size of the lens is very diverse, but
the minimum horizontal width of one lens is 55-60
mm. While the universal bridge width is 10 mm.
Figure 20: Dimensions of general eyeglasses (visible
image)
A = 130 mm – 140mm
B = 10 mm – 15 mm
C = 132 mm – 140 mm
D = 52 mm – 60 mm
Whereas to measure the length of the rims,
measurements of eyewear rims were carried out in a
sample of 10 people. This affects the horizontal
viewing range and comfort. Where in this case the
length of the rims refers to rarely between the base of
the temple.
Table 1: Survey tables for eyeglasses rims length (Source:
Dorojati, 2017):
Sample Length (mm)
1 131 mm
2 130 mm
3 134 mm
4 140 mm
5 138 mm
6 140 mm
7 139 mm
8 137 mm
9 140 mm
10 132 mm
From the table above, it was found that the length
of rims ranged from 130 mm - 140 mm. In addition to
the length of the rims, other parts of the sunglasses
that come in direct contact with the user are nosepad.
Its function is to support the sunglasses on the user's
nose.
Table 2: Nasal anthropometric survey tables.
No.
Age
M/F NW NH BW
1
18
F 40 20 12
2
19
M 40 25 15
3
19
F 30 15 15
4
20
F 25 20 20
5
20
M 30 25 20
6
21
F 30 20 18
7
21
M 40 30 20
8
23
F 30 25 18
9
23
F 35 30 19
10
24
M 40 30 20
11
24
M 43 27 20
12
24
F 37 20 18
13
30
M 47 25 20
14
32
F 35 20 17
NW (nose width) = width of nose lobe
NH (Nose Height) = Height of nose from tip
lobe until the nose tip
BW (Bridge Width) = The width of the nose
Bridge
7 CONCEPT
The concept of form is taken from the overall product
concept, namely the diver. From these concepts, some
extreme are obtained which can be form content,
among others, sea atolls, sea troughs, sea corals, an
underwater cave, wave quality, scuba equipment, and
local beach conditions. So finally the diver is divided
into 5 form variants namely Karimun Jawa,
Wakatobi, Alor, Derawan and Raja Ampat. The five
are some of the best diving locations in Indonesia
with their respective characters.
Figure 21: Karimun Jawa concept scheme
Based on the scheme above, the idea starts with
the form of swimming goggles. The sunglasses are
the basic form of swimming goggles and then adapted
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to form wooden sunglasses. Because the shape is like
enveloping the lens and seems tight and tight, the
name of the variant of the wooden eyeglasses is
named Karimun Jawa Because Karimun Java has
coral reefs that are known to be very tight and intense.
Figure 22: Wakatobi concept scheme
The Wakatobi variant of ideation begins with
observing the beach in the Wakatobi area and it is
found that both the surface and the seafloor form calm
and shallow waves. This was later adapted into the
shape of a wooden eyeglass frame that resembled
shallow waves.
Figure 23: Alor concept scheme
In the same variant the idea has similarities to the
Wakatobi variant, ie the idea is waves. However,
considering the alor has a higher wave flow and tends
to be very sharp, the waves in the Wakatobi variants
in the extension become higher and resemble
dramatic waves.
Figure 24: Derawan concept scheme
In the derivative variant, the idea starts from the
characteristic of Derawan beach, which has a lot of
atolls. Atoll is a collection of coral reefs that form
circular or almost circular like a ring that surrounds
the lagoon in it. The circular shape of the atoll is due
to the development process of atolls that grow around
volcanic islands, where over time the volcano loses
its magma activity (inactivity) and then its peak
erodes leaving ring-shaped coral reefs called atolls.
The contrast between the beach of seawater and atoll
is then adapted to be the contrast that occurs between
coffee wood and blue resin.
Figure 8. 5 Raja Ampat concept scheme
The Raja Ampat variant begins with observing the
situation in a location where many homestays are
found. Each homestay is connected with wooden
bridges. This philosophy was later adapted into the
formation of the top bar and the bridge. In addition,
the basic shape of the archipelago in Raja Ampat is
quite typical, its shape is high and its edges are curved
like a half circle. This was later adapted into the shape
of eyeglass frames.
8 CONCLUSIONS
Coffee Wood among the fashion industry. Because of
its large availability, there are at least 102 million
Utilization of Robusta Coffee (Coffea Canephora) Wood as Stylish Wooden Sunglasses for Young People
103
coffee trees spread in East Java. Coffee wood has
good characteristics to produce wood sunglasses.
Coffee wood includes hardwood class II wood and
has sufficient elasticity for bending and pressing.
Plus, the utilization of coffee wood can increase and
become more optimal. Considering that coffee wood
is considered to be firewood or coffee powder and
coffee bean waste. So, in line with that can increase
the value and income per capita of East Java province.
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