Formulation and Characterization of Cosmetic Serum Containing
Argan Oil as Moisturizing Agent
S. Budiasih
1
*, I. Masyitah
1
, K. Jiyauddin
1,2
, M. Kaleemullah
1
, A. D. Samer
1
,
A. Mohd Fadli
1,2
and Eddy Y.
1,2
1
School of Pharmacy, Management & Science University,
40100 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia
2
International Center for Halal Studies, Management & Science University,
40100 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia
Keywords: Cosmetic Serum, Argan oil, moisturizer, stability
Abstract: Nowadays, cosmetics are becoming more high demand in daily life and it was used frequently by many of
people per year. Moisturizing serum is a bland of oleaginous substances that are applied to the skin by
rubbing which used to replace natural skin oil, to cover tiny fissures in the skin and to provide a soothing
protective film. Argan oil is a plant oil that produced from Argan tree (Argania spinose) which become one
of the main roles in the dermocosmetic field due to higher in moisturizer contents. The main objective of the
research is to evaluate the characteristics of cosmetic serum and to identify the best formulation of cosmetic
serum containing Argan oil as moisturizing agent. Five formulations of cosmetic serum (F1, F2, F3, F4 and
F5) with different concentration of Argan oil have been developed. They were evaluated for its physical
appearance, pH, rheology, spreadability, skin moisturizing, stability test and analysed by using ANOVA
single factor. The product was milky white, rose cheek smell, non-greasy, non-oily and homogen. The result
showed that pH of five formulations have shown significant different (p<0.05) and was fall into acceptable
range (pH 5-6). Stability study at low and room temperature shown all formulation were stable except for
high temperature (at 40°C) only F2 after week 1. Statistical result indicated that there was significant
different between all formulations in moisturizing effect (p<0.05) and F3 gave higher percentage of
moisture rising. Rheological analysis shows all five formulations were pass over 30% of torque point.
Formulation 2, 3 and 4 gave more than 50% of spreadability percentage compared with formulation 1 and 5.
In this study, it can be concluded that the F2 of formulated cosmetic serum are stable and could delivered
high moisturizer effect on the skin.
1 INTRODUCTION
The cost increase in worldwide living standard has
created a rise in demand for cosmetic products. The
cosmetic industry established in Malaysia is one of
the important economic sources. The importance of
cosmetics has increased as many people want to stay
young and attractive.
Cosmeceutical refers to the combination of the
cosmetics industry with the pharmaceutical
industry. Cosmetics companies produce cosmetics
and pharmaceutical ones produce medicines.
Cosmeceuticals are skincare products that combine
cosmetics and medicines. What this means to the
consumer is that they actually work (DeHaven,
2007). “Cosmetic Product” by definition from
Guideline on The Control of Cosmetic Products,
Health Science Authority, Revised in 2014, is any
product that is intended to be placed in contact with
the various external parts of the body, such
epidermis, hair system, nails, lips, eyes, teeth and
the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and
external genital organs with purposes mainly to
cleaning, perfuming, changing their appearance,
correcting body odours, protecting or keeping them
in good condition (Authority, 2011).
The available cosmetic products are classified mainly
in five classes which are skin care products, hair care
products, colour cosmetic products, personal care
products, and fragrances (T. Mitsui, 1993). The skin
care and maintenance are included moisturizers,
massage oils, creams, fairness creams, petroleum
gels, sunscreens, anti-itching creams, and antiseptic
ointments.
Serum is one of the cosmetic products with very high
concentration of active ingredient in their formula for
providing intensive nutrition to the deeper skin layer
and non-greasy finish product which suitable for
skin.
Cosmetic serum was classified based on its rate of
absorption and the ability to penetrate into the deeper
layers of the skin. This research was planned to
Budiasih, S., Masyitah, I., Jiyauddin, K., Kaleemullah, M., Samer, A., Fadli, A. and Yusuf, E.
Formulation and Characterization of Cosmetic Serum Containing Argan Oil as Moisturizing Agent.
DOI: 10.5220/0008361702970304
In Proceedings of BROMO Conference (BROMO 2018), pages 297-304
ISBN: 978-989-758-347-6
Copyright
c
2018 by SCITEPRESS Science and Technology Publications, Lda. All rights reserved
297
develop an ideal cosmetic serum containing Argan
oil as a moisturizing agent to the skin. Serum are
differ from others moisturizers in that serum do not
“make room” for emollients or thickener. Likewise,
serum will not contain sunscreen active like daytime
moisturizer would but serum preserve the extra
space for other beneficial ingredients or even more
antioxidants than any others product.
2 METHODOLOGY
2.1 Materials
Argan oil, Squalane light (Chem Soln), Triglyceride
(Sigma), Glycerin USP (Chem Soln), Hyaluronic
acid HMW, Sodium EDTA, PEG-100, PEG-12
Dimethicon, Sodium acrylate, Phenoxyethanol-SA,
distilled water.
2.2 Apparatus and Equipments
Rheometer (Brookfield® R/S CP), pH meter
(Hanna®), Moisture Checker (Scalar®),
homogenizer (Ultra Turrax), beaker, glass rod, filter
paper (Whatman), syringe with needle, aluminium
foil, dropper.
Table 1: Formula of cosmetic serum
Materials Quantity (%)
F1 F2 F3 F4 F5
PHASE A
Water 73.8
EDTA 0.2
Hyluronic
acid HMW
2
PHASE B
PEG-12 4
Squalene
li
g
ht
6 5 4 3 2
Argan oil 1 2 3 4 5
Triglyceride 3
PHASE C
Glycerin
USP
5
PEG-12
Dimethicon
3
Sodium
acrylate
1
Phenoxyetha
nol-SA
1
2.3 Preparation of Cosmetic Serum
All the ingredients were weighed according to the
different percentage listed (Table 1). The net weight
of all formulated serum was 100g. Add water and
EDTA into a disinfected glass beaker and stir, until
EDTA has dissolved. Add hyaluronic acid and mix
thoroughly with a stick blender or homogenizer until
phase A is free of lumps. Add phase B to phase A,
stir well after each ingredient has been added. Mix
with stick blender. Add phase C to phase A/B, again,
stirring well after each ingredient. Especially after
sodium acrylate uses the stick blender. Serum should
be free of any lumps. Viscosity can be adjusted by
adding, 2.5% of the sodium acrylate, if needed.
2.4 Organoleptic, Physicochemical and
Stability Testing of Cosmetic Serum
The properties and stability testing of cosmetic
serum were carried out for the five different
formulations of cosmetic serum. The observation
were recorded on day one of preparation, week one,
week two, week three, week four and two month
after preparation for determination of organoleptic
properties, pH, homogeneity, rheological, skin
moisture and stability study.
2.4.1 Physical Appearance
Observe the color of the serum formulation sample
which should be in white milky and glossy
appearance. Next, feel some serum formulation
sample on the skin to access the texture which should
smooth homogeneous texture and non-greasy finish.
2.4.2 pH Test
The pH test will be determined by using Digital pH
meter. Dipper of digital pH will be deep into the
sample of serum formulation and the pH value will
be recorded. The pH of the formulation should
having acidic pH as the skin is having an acidic pH
of around 4–6.
2.4.3 Homogeneity
This will be confirmed by spread some of the serum
formulation on the transparent glass and observe it.
The formulation should produce uniform distribution
of serum.
BROMO 2018 - Bromo Conference, Symposium on Natural Products and Biodiversity
298
2.4.4 Rheological Study
Viscosity of the formulation is determined by
Brookfield® Viscometer at 100rpm, using spindle
type model S64.5 ml of the serum. The serum will
placed in a big mouth container with the spindle
dipped in it for about 5 minutes before the
measurement.
2.4.5 Spreadability Test
The product spreads on the skin or affected area and
denotes the extent of area to which the serum was
applied. Some sizes of filter paper are chosen and
each filter paper is measure the total area of filter
paper (A1) and weighing of each filter paper (W1).
Choose the formulation to be tested and draw
several milliliters into the B-D 5mL syringe and
drawn onto the center of filter paper for 20 drops.
When latest drop hits the filter paper, start a timer or
stopwatch to count down for exactly 10 minutes.
During the 10 minute test, the liquid will spread in a
relatively uniform circular pattern over the filter
paper. After 10 minutes, cut exactly on the line
between saturated spread and dry filter paper by
using scissor. Weigh the remaining dry
(unsaturated) filter paper. Record this weight as W2.
Measure the diameter of the saturated portion of
filter paper. If the spread was not a perfect circle,
then take several diameter readings around the
spread area and determine an average diameter.
Record this measurement as A2.
% Spread by Area = (A2/A1)100
2.4.6 Skin Moisture Test
Skin moisture will be measure by using Scalar
moisture checker after applying cosmetic serum on
the skin. The scale will show the moisture of the
skin after using the cosmetic serum.
2.4.7 Stability Test
It is to determine physical and chemical stability of
the product with accelerated stability analysis which
subjects the material to elevated temperatures. Short
term accelerated stability study was carried out for
the period of 3 months for the formulation. The
samples were stored at different storage conditions
of temperatures and samples are withdrawn on
monthly interval and analyzed.
3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
3.1 Physical Appearance
Physical appearance was evaluated by observation
on the texture, color and smell of the formulated
cosmetic serum. All formulations gave milky white
finish products with non-greasy and non-oily
properties after 4 weeks observation. The rose smell
of formulation 1 and 4 started to disappear after
week 2 while formulation 2, 3 and 5 after week 3.
Homogeneity of all formulations were uniformly
distributed of contents while observing serum on the
transparent glass slide.
The use of fragrance in cosmetic serum is to cover
the unpleasant smell of Argan oil. The 1 part of
concentrated rose cheek fragrance was diluted into
10ml distilled water to get 0.1% fragrance before
used in all five formulations. The diluted fragrance
used in formulation made them less smell and
unstable to stand in longer time. Thus, all smelling of
five formulations started to disappear at week 4.
Fragrance is not always readily detected in cosmetics
either often masking agents are used to disguise the
natural smell of the active ingredients (which often
have really unpleasant smells). These masking agents
so “clean” smell that often consumers think the
product is fragrance-free (Dan Thompson, June
2014).
3.2 pH Evaluation of Cosmetic Serum
The result shows on the day 1, pH of five
formulations are fall within the range of pH 5 to pH
6. This is because in the outer layers of the stratum
corneum, the moisture barrier has a slightly acidic
pH (4.5 to 6.5). These slightly acidic layers of the
moisture barrier are called the acid mantle. The
acidity is due to a combination of secretions from the
sebaceous and sweat glands. The acceptance range
for the effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product is
lies between pH 4 to pH 6 (Shan Sasidharan, 2014).
After two months, the pH of these formulations rises
gradually, which closed to the neutral pH (pH 7).
However, all formulation was considerably fulfilling
the pH requirement as a dermocosmetic product. The
distribution of pH test between formulation 1, 2, 3, 4
and 5 showed no significantly different (p< 0.05).
3.3 Rheological Study of Cosmetic
Serum
From the test, the torque value of all five
formulations were more than 30% which mean the
Formulation and Characterization of Cosmetic Serum Containing Argan Oil as Moisturizing Agent
299
resulted value of viscosity is in the acceptable
viscometer range.
Figure 1: Viscosity study of the formulation
Viscosity of all formulation 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 are
gradually increased after 4 weeks placed in the
room temperature (25±2) from 214.696, 276.15,
286.018, 296.537 and 351.828 to 232.759, 292.096,
310.566, 359.57 and 344.924 respectively.
Since the F1, F2, F3, F4 and F5 having an
increasing in emollient which are 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%
and 5% of Argan oil, the viscosity of these
formulation are increasing from day 1 to week 4. A
product viscosity is determined by its structure and
the greatest impact on it has the continuous phase; eg
water. The effect on the viscosity is depending on the
size, shape and concentration of the suspended
particles and how they are interact with the
continuous phase (Tharwat F. Tadros, 2013).
Viscosity is a measurement of internal fluid friction
which is resistance to flow when one layer of fluid is
forced to move in over another layer and typically
measured with Brookfield Viscometer. A fluid may
be made up of molecules that vary in size, shape, and
cohesiveness or a single type of molecule. As these
molecules are forced to move or flow past each
other, the molecular properties will determine just
how much force is required to move them past each
other. The force required to cause movement is
referred to as shear. Shear force are importance in
cosmetic product in order to determine the packaging
of pumping product during manufacturing and also
the spreading of serum on the skin.
According to an article, most of cosmetic products
mostly categorize under shear thinning for
suspensions and emulsions, where their viscosity
decreases with increasing shear rate. This behavior is
also referred to as pseudoplastic and is the result of
structural breakdown within the fluid (Kelly Dobos,
2017).
Table 2: pH result of the formulation
Mean ± Standard deviation (N=3)
Mean ±
Standard
deviation
Day 1
Wk 1
Wk 2
Wk 3
Wk 4
Wk 8
F1
5.87±0
5.89±0.
01
6.03±0.0
2
6.03
±0.05
6.14±0.
02
6.89±0.
01
6.13±0.02
F2 6.01±0.
01
5.98±0.
01
6.04±0.0
1
6.08±0.
01
6.06±0.
01
6.21±0.
01
6.06±0.01
F3 6.01±0.
01
6.01±0.
02
5.99±0.0
1
6.05±0.
02
6.14±0.
02
6.52±0.
01
6.12±0.004
F4 5.86±0.
01
5.88±0.
01
5.87±0.0
1
5.92±0.
01
5.95±0.
01
6.22±0.
01
5.95±0.002
F5 5.90±0.
01
5.90±0.
02
5.93±0.0
2
5.91±0.
01
5.95±0.
02
6.18±0.
02
5.97±0.005
3.4 Spreadability Study of Cosmetic
Serum
Spreadability indicates the area on which a semi-
solid topical formulation spreads on application to
the skin. This parameter plays a key role in
determining both the efficacy and the consumer
acceptance of the product. A poor spreadability may
result in an uneven distribution of the formulation
on the skin, thus affecting the amount of the dose
applied and the efficiency of active ingredient(s) skin
permeation. On the other hand, consumers perceive a
poor spreadability as a weakness of the product,
which could lead to the choice of other products with
a better performance, independently on their actual
efficacy.
214,696
232,759
276,15
292,096
286,018
310,566
296,537
359,57
351,828
344,925
0
500
1000
1500
2000
DAY 1 WEEK 4
VISCOSITY (pa)
F1 F2 F3 F4 F5
BROMO 2018 - Bromo Conference, Symposium on Natural Products and Biodiversity
300
Figure 2: Percentage spreadability of the formulation
From the result of evaluation, it is showed that
formulation 1 give the higher percentage of
spreadability with 24% compared to other
formulations. Secondly, the formulation 2 and 3
also showed more than 20% percent of spreadability
during the test carried out while formulation 4 and 5
only give 16.8% and 16% of spreadability
respectively. Thus, it was assumed that formulation
1 had a good spreadability and consumer
satisfaction when compared to others formulation.
Other authors reported a linear relationship between
viscosity and spreadability for topical formulations,
as the lower the viscosity of a lotion, the lower the
surface tension and the higher the spreadability on
the skin (Lardy F, 2000). When compare with the
viscosity test, formulation 1 having lowest viscosity,
thus it affect its spreadability which having the
highest percentage of spreadability.
For the rheological study and spreadability, there
are having linear relationship between viscosity and
spreadability, as the lower the viscosity, the lower
the surface tension and the higher the spreadability
on the skin.
3.5 Skin Moisture Study of Cosmetic
Serum
A total of 15 volunteers, ages ranging from 18 to 25
years old were included in the study. The volunteers
are healthy with no preceding skin diseases. Non-
invasive skin moisture measurements were carried
out using Scalar moisture checker at 1 minute, 5
minutes and 10 minutes to determine the short term
improvement in skin moisture properties after a
single application of cosmetic serum. Five different
cosmetic serums containing different concentration
of emollient (Argan oil) which are 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%
and 5% were used in this evaluation.
Figure 3: Percentage of moisture increase of the
formulation
From the moisture test of formulation 1, moisture
increment in volunteer 1, 2 and 3 are 14.81%,
12.57% and 15.70%. The total percentage increment
is 14.36 % (±1.61). In the formulation 2, moisture
increment in volunteer 1, 2 and 3 are 21.28%,
14.16% and 21.57%. The total increment of
formulation 2 is higher than formulation 1, 4 and 5
which is 19.00 % (±4.20) and slightly lower by
0.67% from the formulation 3. The formulation 3
shows the highest percentage of moisture increment
in all three volunteers which is 19.67 % (±6.49).
While in the formulation 4, total increment of
moisture from the individual’s volunteer 1, 2 and 3
(23.99%, 13.13%, 17.57%) is 18.23% (±5.46). lastly,
formulation 5 show the least moisture increment in
the volunteer 1, 2 and 3 (16.83%, 11.40% and
9.88%) with the total moisture increment is 12.70%
(±3.65). Thus from the result, formulation 3 show the
highest moisture levels raised compared to others
formulation.
According to the one way ANOVA using data
percentage of moisture increment for 15 volunteer at
1 minute, 5 minutes and 10 minutes for all
formulation, all data show high significant different
(p<0.05) among each volunteer. The moisture level
of each volunteer varied due to the different
thickness of skin between male and female,
environment condition and lifestyle of volunteers.
This proven that Argan oil contains higher contents
of triglyceride which mainly act as moisturizing
agent through the percentage of moisture rising after
first application. Emollients provide some
occlusivity and improve the appearance of the skin
by smoothing flaky skin cells. There are many
24,00
%
22,40
%
21,60
%
16,80
%
16,00
%
0,00%
5,00%
10,00%
15,00%
20,00%
25,00%
30,00%
F1 F2 F3 F4 F5
0,00%
5,00%
10,00%
15,00%
20,00%
25,00%
30,00%
F1 F2 F3 F4 F5
Formulation and Characterization of Cosmetic Serum Containing Argan Oil as Moisturizing Agent
301
different types of emollient esters and oils available.
Emollients are generally grouped by their ability to
spread on the skin. By combining emollients with
the different spread rates, it can tailor the skin feel
of a moisturizer. In this cosmetic serum
formulation, three types of emollient were used such
as Argan oil, squalene and triglyceride.
Additionally, emollient lipids similar to those
naturally found in the skin may also increase the
rate of barrier repair (Dobos, 2016). Thus, by
increasing the percentage of emollient would be
increasing the skin’s moisture level.
3.6 Stability Study of Cosmetic Serum
The sample of formulations were stored at three
different storage conditions and withdrawn weekly
to analyze the physical stability.
Table 3: Stability studies of the formulation
Room
temperature
(25°C±1)
Cold room
(2-3°C)
Oven
(40°C)
W
1
W
2
W
3
W
4
W
1
W
2
W
3
W
4
W
1
W
2
W
3
W
4
F1 X X X X X X X X / / / /
F2 X X X X X X X X / / / /
F3 X X X X X X X X X / / /
F4 X X X X X X X X / / / /
F5 X X X X X X X X / / / /
X : No phase separation
/ : Phase separation
All 5 formulations were stable at room temperature
(25°C±2) and cold room (2-3°C) for a month
without having any phase separation. At the high
temperature storage (40°C), all 5 formulations show
stable during first three days. After that, formulation
1, 3, 4 and 5 started to have phase separation while
formulation 2 stable for a week and become
unstable at the week 2. This process results from the
external forces usually gravitational or
centrifugation. When such forces exceed the
thermal motion of droplets, a concentration gradient
builds up in the system with the larger droplets
moving faster to the top or bottom of container
depends on their density (Tharwat F. Tadros, 2013).
Oil in water emulsion is considered to be special
liquid-liquid colloidal dispersions. The kinetic
stability is a consequence of small droplet size and
the presence of n interfacial film around the oil
droplets and is caused by stabilizing agent or
emulsifiers. In the serum formulation, polyethylene
glycol-100 (PEG-100) had been used as oil in water
emulsifier to form a homogenous mixture by keeping
water and oil together. These stabilizers suppress the
mechanisms that would involve in the breakdown of
emulsion such as sedimentation, aggregation,
coalescence and phase inversion.
These serums are stabilized by films that form
around the oil droplets at the water-oil interface.
Temperature can affect emulsion stability
significantly. Temperature affects the physical
properties of oil, water, interfacial films, and
surfactant solubilities in the oil and water phases.
These, in turn, affect the stability of the emulsion.
Perhaps the most important effect of temperature is
on the viscosity of emulsions because viscosity
decreases with increasing temperatures. This
decrease is mainly because of a decrease in the oil
viscosity. In this evaluation, temperature of the oven
(40°C) increases the thermal energy of the oils
droplets and, therefore, increases the frequency of
drop collisions. It also reduces the interfacial
viscosity, which results in a faster film-drainage rate
and faster drop coalescence.
The effect of temperature on crude oil/water
interfacial films was studied in some detail by
Jones et al., who showed that an increase in
temperature led to a gradual destabilization of the
crude oil/water interfacial films. However, even at
higher temperatures, a kinetic barrier to drop
coalescence still exists. Temperature influences the
rate of buildup of interfacial films by changing the
adsorption rate and characteristics of the interface. It
also influences the film compressibility by changing
the solubility of the crude oil surfactants in the bulk
phase.
4 CONCLUSIONS
The formulated cosmetic serum was successfully
developed and evaluated using different standard
parameters including skin moisture rising properties.
Based on all cosmetic serum formulations studied,
all F1, F2, F3, F4 and F5 formulation showed
significantly different in rising of skin moisture level
(p<0.05). On the evaluation of the finished serum’s
texture, all formulations give a milky white in color,
non-greasy, non-oily and homogeneous contents.
Without any pH adjustment, all the formulations
gave the pH value within the limits of normal skin
pH range. Besides that, in the stability study of
BROMO 2018 - Bromo Conference, Symposium on Natural Products and Biodiversity
302
cosmetic serum, all formulations stable until 4
th
week in the room temperature (25°C±1) and cold
room (2-3°C) but unstable in the oven (40°C) after
the first 3 days except for F2 which stables for a
week before undergo phase separation.
Thus, from the studied, the F2 is the best
formulation of cosmetic serum as it is the most
stable formulation and could give highest
percentage of moisture increased.
Besides that, further studies are warranted to prove
safety and efficacy of the formulated cosmetic
serum and extend formulation to gel and cream
formulation.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This dissertation would not be possible without
guidance and the help of Supervisor Mdm Sri
Budiasih, colleagues and family. I would like to
take this opportunity to express gratitude to
Management & Science University (MSU) for
allowing me to conduct the research study by
providing the necessary equipment and materials.
Thank you.
CONFLICT OF INTEREST
Declare none
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