Authors:
João Miguel Antunes Brogueira
and
César José Duarte Peixoto
Affiliation:
Universidade Técnica de Lisboa, Portugal
Keyword(s):
Safety, Coastal Currents, Surf, Systematics, Wave Knowledge, Lineup, Patterns.
Related
Ontology
Subjects/Areas/Topics:
Applied Physiology and Exercise
;
Health, Sports Performance and Support Technology
;
Sport Science Research and Technology
Abstract:
Regarding the beach safety of surf zone users, this study aims to systematize the “Wave Knowledge” of the
most efficient lifeguards, the surfing masters, by classifying the indicators relevant for recognizing spacial
and temporal patterns and risk factors. This is evidenced by the proficiency in motor tasks essential both to
the sport and rescuing in the surf zone: positioning in the lineup, catching waves/ returning to shore (when
“Wave judgement” is needed). We start by reviewing the literature from Surf Sciences, followed by an
analysis of manuals of Surfing as a sport. Then we researched the prospective procedures of experts in
extreme surf conditions and observed behaviour of top surfers in competition, to put up a classification of
the visual signs used (sea and swell, wind, tide, seabed configuration, currents, and details of breaking
waves’ forms). Based on the acquired data, we built a Questionnaire to rank the “relative importance of the
signals”, which surveyed 11 surf nat
ional champions/ coaches (male/female practitioners with over 15
years’ experience). Results show that experienced surfers evaluate all elements of the “waves-currents
system”, although the location, type and intensity of maritime currents (except under conditions of small
waves), and the swell characteristics (angle of arrival to coast, height, period) stand out as the most
important. The importance of the signals varies according to the wave height and the wave break types. The
respondents also attend configuration of seabed and coast profile in their evaluation. As for the surf quality,
they consider the characteristics of the coastal wind and temporal characteristics of the tides. For the
strength of the surf and the take-off point, the focus is on sections and wave face profiles (slope, thickness).
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